Mashed on the brake pedal for a normal stop and the pedal went to the floor

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Did you reply? I got an email but nothing came up.

Roy
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 5:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SILVERADO-GAR
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1990 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 1 MILES
Having problem with brakes. Replaced brake booster, brake lines, pads, master cylinder. Still have no brake pedal. How do I fix the problem. This is for a 1990 Cheverolet K1500 5.7 Silverado.
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 5:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DRCRANKNWRENCH
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,380 POSTS
Follow this procedure to bleed brakes;

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

Also if you have ABS brakes the unit must be held open while bleeding the system if not bunch bleed the master cylinder before installing it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-brake-master-cylinder

To do this, get a large soda bottle and some clear hose that fits the bleed nipple snugly from your local hardware store.

Fit one end over the bleed screw and run the line higher than the bleed screw then into the bottle. Put a little axle grease on the threads and once you get some of the air out, you can just keep flushing fluid without stopping to hold and release and tighten bleed screw. Since you have so many issues, I would suggest flushing it until it comes out clean.

Starting at the right rear caliper, (This is the farthest from the master cylinder and needs to be done first.)Pump and hold but you can also just pump if the level in the master cylinder is dropping. It takes a while to get fluid going from such a far place especially with a new caliper. To create the pressure to get the fluid going, it has to fill a large cavity the the master cylinder is not designed for. The master cylinder only moves a little bit of fluid when you use your brakes...so be patient, it will come.
If the pedal gets hard to pump, there is contamination somewhere and is often in the bleed screw. Remove it and clean it out.

Now move on to the drivers' side rear brake. Then the passenger side front brake . Then lastly the drivers front brake.

This system of working farthest away from the master cylinder to the closest helps remove the most contamination and helps more fluid to move along.

ALSO, never let the master cylinder get below the low mark. that will pump air into the brakes. If you think bleeding the farthest caliper is hard, a master cylinder is a killer to bleed.
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 5:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,256 POSTS
Hey SILVERADO-GAR

Here is a guide that will help you fix the problem

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-pedal-goes-to-the-floor

Please let us know happens so it will help others.

Best, Ken
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 5:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CONNIE PILATZ
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1989 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • 89,000 MILES
I had a bad rear brake line, changed it, wheel cylinders, shoes and spring kits. Also changed the master cylinder. Bled the brakes three times (yes, I know how) still no rear brakes. Bleeding process went as planned with fluid squirting as it should. Bought the tool to hold the proportioning valve centered. Still no rear brakes. Could the proportioning valve be bad?
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good afternoon,

It sounds like you still have air in the system.

I would rent a pressure bleeder, not a vacuum bleeder, and force out all the air in the system. With the length of the truck, it is difficult to get all the air out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-pedal-goes-to-the-floor

Roy
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CONNIE PILATZ
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
One other thing, the "Red Brake Light" is now on the dash, it lit up after the bleeding process. It was never on prior to that. Could you share the bleed order if you have time. We did Right Rear then Left Rear then Right Front then Left Front. We also bench bled the master before installing. Is there something else? There is no fluid leaks anywhere as well. Thank you in advance.
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MOTOR MASTER
  • MECHANIC
  • 279 POSTS
Hello my name is Dave.

I have found an easier way to bleed the brakes is to put a little brake fluid in a bottle, just enough to cover the tip of a small hose (I usually use a 16 once water bottle). Next get a few feet of 3/16" washer fluid hose and attach it to the bleeder valve and put the other end in the fluid in the bottle. Open the bleeder and have someone pump the brakes until the the bubbles stop, no need to open and close the valve just leave it open. When the bubbles stop have your helper hold the pedal to the floor and close the valve. Do this starting at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder working your way towards it. This procedure will insure no air is the system. The other thing I was wondering is if you have adjusted the rear brakes, I would make sure they are adjusted prior to any bleeding process. I hope this helps you get your brakes working properly and if you need further assistance please feel free to come back and update us and thank you for using 2CarPros!
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
As far as the red light, make sure the fluid level is correct. If that is okay, then the proportioning valve has moved to one side.

Usually just pushing down hard on the brake pedal will reset the valve. If not, then the valve may be stuck.

Roy
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 1978 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
I stopped at a red light today and my brake pedal went to the floor. I can slow the truck down abit but lost alot of the brakes. I checked the break fluid and the back silinder was low. What do I need to do now to repair the breakes? When I step on the brakes I can hear some air sound.
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,645 POSTS
You have blown a brake line. Because of the year, chances are one of the steel lines has rusted and leaked. Check all brake lines and lines for leaks. If they are all good, and I doubt they are, check rear wheel cylinders and front calipers for problems.

Also, refill the master cylinder and see if after pumping the brakes it goes low again. It should and you should see brake fluid in the area of the leak.

Let me know what you find.
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)

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