Mashed on the brake pedal for a normal stop and the pedal went to the floor

Have tried rebleeding? These guides can help you fix it.

https://youtu.be/w7gUsj2us0U

and

https://youtu.be/WDxvEQrMkBg

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-pedal-goes-to-the-floor

Please run down this guide and report back.

Thanks

Check brake master cylinder fluid level if okay-try bleeding the brakes don't work-do below Get the vacuum hose to the brake booster, check valve and brake booster checked out-sounds like its leaking. These guides can help you fix it.

https://youtu.be/w7gUsj2us0U

and

https://youtu.be/WDxvEQrMkBg

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-pedal-goes-to-the-floor

Do you mean the ABS brake module? You are not getting any fluid out of or do you mean the caliper itself? I would check the bled valve they can clog up

Sounds like the solenoid may be stuck closed inside the ABS module. Have you tried unplugging the electrical connector to the module? That will tell you if the solenoid is staying energized or if its just stuck closed. The solenoid should be open unless the ABS unit is energized. As you said the others are bleeding okay.

Well if it is stuck closed you still wont get any fluid through it. You are getting fluid through the others, so they are open. They should be normally open unless the ABS is needed to prevent the tire from locking up and causing the vehicle slide. The ABS pulses the braking system to prevent lock up under slippery conditions.

I would also use fresh brake fluid, hopefully there is not something stuck in the solenoid itself.

Also, could be air in module preventing the fluid from coming out, which method did you use to bleed the system? Have you tried pushing the brake peddle gently with the line open to see if any fluid will come out or have you just gravity bled it?

It can be very difficult to get air out of the ABS system considering how many areas air can get stuck in there.

Have a professioanl use their scanner to open ABS unit and bleed system properly.

Squishy low pedal is 95% of the time air in the lines. The description of stomping the pedal and they feel better bears that out. It is trapping more fluid in the bore of the master cylinder. Those lines have a bunch of high spots that trap air. The other times it is a failed brake part like a bad rubber line or mis-adjusted set of brake shoes. These guides can help you fix it.

https://youtu.be/w7gUsj2us0U

and

https://youtu.be/WDxvEQrMkBg

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-pedal-goes-to-the-floor

You say you did the pads and shoes, did you replace the drums as well?
If not you might want to pull them, measure them for wear on the inner area and the area close to the backing plate, they can wear in the shape of a bell. When you step down the brake shoes end up flexing sideways and you get a poor pedal response.

Hi,

If you have no leaks and it is doing the same thing with a new master cylinder, my first thought is are the rear brakes (drum brakes) properly adjusted. Does it have rear drum shoes? If so, how were they adjusted?

Let me know.

Joe

Good evening,

Convention bleeding on a truck rarely works. There is not enough pedal push to get the air out.

You need to power bleed the system. That is where you attach a cover to the top of the master cylinder and the air is applied to the master. Then you open the bleeders in sequence until the air is gone.

A side note. If you have ABS, you will need to do the other procedure I attached as well. Convention and pressure bleeding does not get the air out of the ABS unit.

Roy

Pressure Bleeding

Note: The pressure bleeding equipment must be of the diaphragm type. It must have a rubber diaphragm between the air supply and the brake fluid to prevent air; moisture, oil, and other contaminants from entering the hydraulic system. Also adapters are needed. Depending on the type of master cylinder used.

Tools Required:
J-29567 Brake Bleeder Adapter (Plastic Reservoir)
J-35856 Combination Valve Depressor

Note: It is very important that the correct master cylinder bleeder adapter be used to avoid possible damage to the master cylinder reservoir.

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1. Fill the pressure tank at least 1/3 full of brake fluid. The bleeder must be re-bled each time fluid is added.
A. Charge the bleeder to 140 - 170 kPa (20 to 25 psi).
2. Use J-35856 to depress and hold the valve stem on the combination valve during the bleeding operation.

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a. Install the bleeder adapter so the leg with the release valve is towards the cowl.
3. Bleed each wheel in the following sequence.
A. Right rear
b. Left rear
c. Right front
d. Left front
4. Connect the hose from the bleeder to the adapter at the master cylinder.
A. Open the tank valve.
5. Attach a hose to a brake bleeder screw.
A. Immerse the opposite end of the hose into a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
6. Open the bleeder screw at least 3/4 of a turn and allow the fluid to flow until no air is seen in the fluid.
A. Close the bleeder screw.
7. Repeat step six at all the wheels.
8. Open the bleeder screw on the Isolation/Dump Valve (vehicles with power brakes only).
A. Allow the fluid to flow until no air is seen in the fluid.
B. Close the bleeder screw.
9. Check the brake pedal for "sponginess", repeat the entire bleeding procedure if this condition is found.
10. Remove J-35856.
A. Disconnect the line from the bleeder adapter.
B. Remove bleeder adapter.
11. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level with brake fluid.