Battery light is coming on?

It might be an alternator power cable issue then.

However, those bench tests aren't always 100% accurate. Sometimes alternators fail at certain temperatures. You only tested it at room temperature, so it still may be bad.

Check the ground circuit connections. Seems some are not secure, especially th eones between engine and body, thermostat housing and front fender.

Check alternator connections.

There is a ground strap at engine mount.
One on either side of fenders, behind the head lights.

Hi saroct,

That should not be related to the stereo.

Get the charging system checked. Your alternator might have run out of carbon brushes.

Hi ecov,

The alternator carbon brushes are running out, you need to replace them or the alternator assy.

The brake master cylinder piston seals are worn and needs to be replaced. If you hold the brake pedal, it would go down.

I would opt for the EFI relay and I would check every ground and make sure they are clean. What is the voltage at the battery when it is running? I ask to make sure that your voltage regulator has not bailed on you. You need to ensure that the charging system is functioning correctly.

Hi there,

I would be suspecting the alternator has a sticky brush or a faulty regulator, with this o/Hauled I would not expect you to have anymore problems, as for the batter, the standard recommended amperage will be ample for your needs.

Mark (mhpautos)

PRELIMINARY INSPECTION
Check alternator wiring harness connections and drive belt tension. Ensure battery is fully charged and connections at battery cables, alternator and main fuses are good.
Check dash fuse box fuse No. 2 (15A). Replace fuse(s) as necessary.
NOTE:If any fuse is blown, charge warning light will come on even if the charging system is working properly.

ALTERNATOR OUTPUT TEST
With engine at normal operating temperature, remove alternator harness connector.
Turn ignition switch to ON position.
Ensure battery voltage is present between Black/Yellow wire terminal of harness connector and ground. If battery voltage is present, go to step 4).
If battery voltage is not present, check dash fuse No. 2 (15A). Check for open circuit in Black/Yellow wire between dash fuse box and alternator.
Turn ignition off.

Reconnect alternator harness connector.
Connect alternator tester with integral carbon pile to apply electrical load to system. Start engine.
Ensure all accessories are off.

Operate engine at 2000 RPM and apply a load with carbon pile so voltage reading drops to no less than 12 volts. Cooling fan must not come on while testing.

Check maximum amperage and compare with appropriate alternator specification chart.
NOTE:Due to engine operation, subtract 5-10 amperes from the maximum reading.

If amperage reading is within specification, charging system is okay. If amperage is not within specification, perform full field test.

Recheck amperage. If amperage is still not within specification, replace alternator. If amperage is within specification, internal voltage regulator is defective and must be replaced.

This test done on the car the way it should be
to verify wiring and fuses and or alternator failure
If the test was done and all pass you should have no problem
I AM only trying to help

good luck

Did you line up the timing marks correctly? Also did you make sure the key is in the crank for the crank pulley? They tend to fall out which lets them spin and can cause what you describe.