Battery light is coming on?

Tiny
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Hi KHL: Thank you for your response!

My alternator belt had been changed at my 90,000 mile maintenance.

Actually, my battery light only went on when I was stopped or slowing down to approximately 20 mph. Then turned off when I accelerated.

Unfortunately, what happened is they said my alternator needed to be replaced which-- SURPRISE --
did not fix the a/c problem.

Is the rubber damper ring also called a "shim"?
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi,

No, it is not a shim. The damper and the pulley should be in 1 complete piece.

Too bad after replacing the alternator and the AC still don't work. Btw is the alternator working well now?

Guess you need to fork out more $$$ for the AC coil or compressor whichever is at fault.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
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Hello, again.

So far I GUESS the alternator is working since the battery light is off. However, now I am wondering if it needed to be replaced.

The SAD story is that after they replaced the alternator, they told me I had to take the car to an a/c specialist.

SHEEP that I am, I went. Baaaaaaaa!

They replaced the a/c clutch coil.

Wait... It gets better. They call to say my car is fixed.

I picked up the car and started to drive it home. But the a/c was still blowing warm air! I turned around went back to service repair shop and they said that the mechanic put in a "shim" between the coil and the (?) That was too thick and he needed to replace it with a thinner one.

ONE hour or so later, I get my car back and the a/c works fine.

Can you PLEASE (I'm begging here... ) Give me an idea as to what this "magic" shim was that miraculously made the a/c blow cold air?

Thanks for your help. My sanity is at stake.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DILL-11
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  • 1992 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 190,000 MILES
I have a 92 Honda Accord the battery light comes on when you turn the a/c on. Also the belt slips and burn when its on. The compresser have been change and the alt. But still the same problem. Whats wrong?
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi,

From what you described, probably the magnetic clutch contact was worn so it was refaced a shim was needed to keep the specified clearance.

By adding too thick a shim, the clutch was too far away to be attracted by the coil so they readjusted by replacing with a thinner shim.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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It sounds like the compressor is causing the belt to slip. You need to have it diagnosed correctly to determine if it's a problem with the belt or the A/C system. The compressor isn't necessarily the only part of the A/C that could cause that.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
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Hello, KHL: Thank you for your GREAT and SPEEDY responses.

I must COMMEND you on your ability to clearly articulate your answers in such a way that even I, a blithering/blathering/babbling NOVICE regarding car mechanics, can understand.

So, it isn't the "chicken or the egg" problem?

What likely came first? Did the coil need to be replaced?

Or was it the magnetic clutch contact that was worn and had it been fixed first the coil would not have needed to be replaced?

Was it just coincidental that the alternator went "bad?"
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DILL-11
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What other part of the a/c could cause this?
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi again

Glad that I have been of help.

Chicken or egg is true.

The clutch locks when the compressor is required to work and unlocks when the desired cooling temp is attained or during hard acceleration.

When the clutch engages, it tends to slip before it fully engages and over a long period of time, the wear will create a bigger clearance gap between the plates. This will result in in partial engagement of the clutch and heats builds up when slippage occurs. This will fry the coil.

Fixing the clutch might have protected the coil but then again it could have been the other way round. The strength of the coil diminishes due to old age, poor wire connector contact or oil getting between the coil slowly shorting it. This will cause improper clutch contact.

The alternator failure should be just coincidence because even if the coil is shorted, the fuse will blow protecting the alternator, unless you have installed very high amp fuse which will cause the alternator to give way before the fuse blows.

Just remembered, maybe the alternator was not producing enough current so the coil got affected.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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Most of them. It needs to be diagnosed professionally.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
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Hello, KH:

Again, thank you for your helpful responses.

Now that I think about it, the a/c was not blowing cool air several days BEFORE the battery light went on.

If the alternator and the a/c probems are related, is it, more likely than not, that the battery light would have come on at the same time as the a/c problem?

The battery was not replaced -- only the alternator.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVEAL01
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  • 1992 HONDA ACCORD
Electrical problem
1992 Honda Accord 4 cyl Automatic 317000 miles

I have noticed from time to time that for some reason my battery light, lights up or flashes from time to and even all lmy lights dim. This does not happen all the time. Battery & alternator was replaced about 6 months back. Had auto zone test both but state battery & alternator are running good. Could this light be linked to anything else and or is this just strickly the dummy light just for battery & alternator going bad?
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Even if related, the damage to the alternator might only slowly build up until it gives way thus the delay.

If the battery is ok, there is no need for it to be replaced.

The new alternator will charge it back after some running of the engine.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
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With the light coming on and others dimming, this is not a dummy reporting. I suspect one of two things. First let me ask if it occurs often and if not does it appear to be happening more often? Any predictablility on the occurances? Such as colder weather, etc.

The first thing I would look at are the connections.

Then, even though the alternator tests good at Autozone, you might still suspect the alternator as the culprit. Was the alternator used, rebuilt or new?
I have had better luck with used alternators and new than I have with rebuilt ones.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
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Hello, KHL:

Thanks for your time and help.

You've been great.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVEAL01
  • MEMBER
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I notice more during Early monring hours when I am off to work (4am) (colder). Sometimes when jsut approaching 3500-4000rpm, the battery light will barely come on and other times flashes. From time to time when this heppens, all my lights will dim and remains for about 30 miles or so. The volt meter on my radio does indicate a voltage drop from 13.8 to about 11.4 or so. I also notice at times on my way back home (afternoon) radio read out does show drops and up and down readings. But all auto zone states it that the radio readings are not accurate and must me a short on the car, but I think he's just clueless. I told him if there were a short somewhere, I would be blowing fueses, which of course not happening. Should I take elsewhere to have tested?
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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You are welcomed.

Glad that we have been of assistance.

Happy motoring.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SASIFIED
  • MEMBER
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  • 1992 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
My battery light keeps coming on and off mostly when I slow down or am going at a slow rate of speed. Ive turned on my radio and lights to see if it stays on but it seems to go off most of the time when I do that. Ive replaced the alt. And battery and have even put new connectors on it. And all my fuses are ok. Could it possably be a short?
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Check the alternator belt tension-if okay get the battery and the alternator load tested.

Too look for a short in the electrical system do below


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_parastic_draw_1_21.jpg

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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
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Thanks ill give it a try and let ya know the out come if your right ill keep the donation thing in mind and will for sure use your site again in the future and for sure will donate.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)

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