My engine is stalling at idle can you help me please?

Most of the time on Fords it will be a bad idle air control valve or collapsed pcv hose. Usually when the hose collapses it will trigger a check engine light with fault code P0171 or P0174 for bank 1 or bank 2 too lean. If no check engine light on then I would lean more towards the idle air control valve.

Thanks for the additional information. We are a good team.

Hello,

I would start by removing the IAC motor and cleaning it, also do you hear a strange noise when the engine is trying to idle, this could be becasue the IAC motor has gone bad and needs replacement which is a common problem with those cars.

Here is a guide that should help you.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-idle-speed-control-motor-iac

Please let us know what happens.

Best, Ken

Check ICV valve. same as IAC. are you saying idle slows fan or fan slows idle? extra draw from alterantor does put a slightly higher load on engine. if it's too lean already this could slow down idle. idle slowing down lowers output from alternator so fan itself gets less voltage and slows down.

This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please run down this guide and report back.

Hi,

First, let me know what codes are present at this time. Next, were there any issues prior to the injector replacement? Were the correct injectors used for replacement?

Have you checked fuel pressure to confirm it is within the manufacturer's specs?

Here is a link you may find of interest. It discusses the most common cause of backfires.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-backfires-while-running

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

The pressure needs to be regulated to a specific pressure. There is a chance it could be too high.

Is the P0443 the only code you found? That is related to the canister purge solenoid. Have you checked for a vacuum leak at that point or if something was damaged or left disconnected? It is located near the power brake booster on the firewall under the hood. See the attached pic.

Also, I need to confirm if this is a 5.4L or the 4.6L.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com. I will assume you mean you are catching the vehicle in gear. The first things we need to check are for a good spark to the plugs and fuel pressure from the pump. Here are general directions for checking for spark:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Here is a video showing how fuel pressure is tested:

https://youtu.be/peh7-pFycyc

As far as the fuel pump pressure specific to your vehicle, the first picture I attached indicates the fuel pressure specifications. The next four pictures are of flow charts if you find a problem with pressure.

If you find that fuel pressure and spark are not an issue, the next thing you will need to do is check engine compression. Here are general directions for that process:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Here are general reasons for low compression:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/the-reasons-for-low-compression

Here are specific directions for your vehicle:

Gauge check
AllData Editors Note - Ford does not provide a cranking pressure specification, only an acceptable range.

Make sure oil in crankcase is of the correct viscosity and at the proper level and that the battery is properly charged. Operate the vehicle until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then remove all spark plugs.
Set throttle plates in the wide-open position.
Install a compression gauge such as Compression Tester in No.1 cylinder.
Install an auxiliary starter switch in the starting circuit. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, and using the auxiliary starter switch, crank the engine a minimum of five compression strokes and record the highest reading. Note the approximate number of compression strokes required to obtain the highest reading.
Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the same number of compression strokes.

Picture 6 is of the acceptable range of compression.If you find the compression to be lower than 110psi, that is most likely the problem.

Let me know if this helps.
Take care,
Joe

Why were the original injectors replaced? Was there a problem or was it just a maintenance issue? Do you still have the old ones?

Let me know.
Joe

This sounds like the engine coolant sensor is shorting out lets change it out and recheck please. This guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please run down this guide and report back.