My engine is stalling at idle can you help me please?

So the idea with a torque converter is that they are applying when they should not and so they stall the engine just like letting the clutch out on a manual with low RPM.

So if it is stalling like that, where it just drops in RPM and stalls then that could be the issue. However, normally torque converter issues will happen after they are locked up. So when you get on the highway and then get off an exit, it will not disengage and stall the engine.

There could be an issue with the valve body or solenoid that when the fluid gets hot, it leaks and applies the converter and stalls the engine.

While it would be a new situation of this issue on me, it is still something that we can't discount.

I would start with the fuel pressure and go from there.

Hello it sounds like the throttle bore is dirt and nees service here is a guide to help fix the issue

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down these guides and report back.

You are correct. Your engine does not have a valve for this. So that means you need use the tool kit that is supplied below. Sorry I didn't give this prior but most all Ford's have this valve on the rail but yours doesn't.

O you don't need to remove it just take the air duct off to reach it and open it with your finger. Push on the bottom side normally. The iac hole is kind of oblong you'll see it. Make sure to get all the gunk out then get puter reset and see if code comes back. If not you are good if it does then you need further investigation by a pro.

These trucks are known to have this issue. If yours is electronic then you may need a new throttle body if cleaning it doesn't help. There may even be a PCM update to go along with this.

We have a video that should fix the throttle issue and stalling p0220.

https://youtu.be/6fWYjfU9UV8

for the P0010 a camshaft position actuator circuit/open bank 1 9 times out of 10 it's the actuator that needs to be replaced. here is the location so you can check it out:

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Okay, I didn't see the trouble code before I posted a response, anyways the TP sensor code on this particular year model has been a faulty throttle position sensor, I say that because I've replaced over a hundred of them over the years at my dealer. The code for the camshaft actuator, replace it!

Welcome to 2CarPros.

First, I have a feeling that you may have disconnected an engine vacuum hose or one got damaged. The first thing I suggest is to check for engine vacuum leaks.

Here is a link that shows how:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Next, were you able to secure the coil pack that you had difficulty with? Is the check engine light staying on with the engine running? If it is, you should scan the computer for codes. Here is a quick video showing how it's done:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

I realize most people don't own a scanner, but often times a parts store will lend or rent one to you.

Start with those couple checks and let me know what you find. Also, if you could let me know why the injectors were replaced, it may be helpful.

Take care,
Joe

This sound similar.

This may not be the answer, but you can easily rule it out! This will sort of guide you to what you have to do, it is really easy to do!

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

My wife's is on the top and has two bolts. Our Escape would idle low, then it got to point it would die when you stopped.

Revving and holding brake was only way to keep it running.

Took it to fellow R/C airplane pilot, he doubles as a S.C. State Highway Department mechanic. When I got to his house, he was repairing a tractor.

Told him my sob story. Escape was still barely running, I raised the hood.

He said, (and I quote)."It could be the idle air control (IAC)", as he pointed to it, and emphasized it with a sharp rap using the wrench in his hand.

It straightened right up, and ran good!

That was a 15/16 Craftsman wrench, box end, kind of a medium rap.

We removed and cleaned it, it may have gone on being Fine, for a lot longer.

Since it was my wife's, I took no chances, with my well-being. Yes, I visited parts store and replaced it, figured it had 100,000 miles on it, and constantly was a moving part, replacement of this component, was just preventative maintenance in my eyes.

Hope this helps.

Hope I am dead on! Cleaning would be free! (less a can of throttle body cleaner), and at least maybe eliminate this factor out of the equation. You can go on and replace it later, if you have the same feelings about it as I did. It is not really expensive.

Please let me know how this goes.

The Medic

Hey,

Here is a guide that might help also.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Let me know what you find.

Best, Ken