Battery drain?

I have a 2002 LS model 3.8L V6 with 82,000 miles. Everything is stock (radio, etc.). I have a parasitic draw on the battery that leaves the battery dead overnight.

I have pulled the negative terminal off the battery and put in an amp meter. After about ten minutes the draw hits a cycle of 1.86 amps for about 20 seconds then down to 0.04 amps for about 6 seconds, back to 1.86 amps, etc.

I notice a clicking sound under the dash and a faint hissing sound on the radio during the cycle. If I pull the CLSTR/BCM fuse there is no draw at all. If I pull only the radio fuse, I get the same cycle, but with 0.48 amps for 20 seconds down to 0.04 for 6 seconds. I have replaced the RAP relay and no change.

If I pull the fuse for the BCM no change. I have read some posts that the BCM can get fried if you jump start the car (which I had to do about 4 months prior to this problem). How do you know if the BCM is bad? Any other suggestions are more than welcome!

I am having problems too. Door lock fuse blows and the security light goes on, battery dies or it locks down case the bcm tells the car it is being stollen. Can some one help? Put 230 it to it al ready. Should I go to the dealer> ooch

Temullen -- Yeah I got it fixed -- it turned out to be the BCM. I ordered a replacement BCM from Advanced Auto for $100 and then called around to the dealers until I found one that would only do the reprogramming and they charged me $95. We took it on a 500 mile road trip over the weekend and so far haven't had any problems. The dealers wanted between $500-600 to replace and reprogram the BCM which was a complete rip-off, I was just really persistent on this being a DIY fix for me. Good luck!

I’ve recently purchased a new battery but something is still draining my battery.

Replaced the alternator, starter and battery and the car keeps drawing 1.4 amps consistently even while the car is off. I had to buy a new battery charger just so I can charge it and go to work.

My impala acts like it has a dead battery if I do not start it every eight hours or so. If I let the car sit all day or so, when I open the door I can hear a clicking from under the dash, thats the first sign I can see when it dont turn over.
I've had the starter, alternater and battery tested several times, and each time they say they're good
What is the best way to find where the current draw is comming from when the car is off?

I've tried the amp meter, and mine claimed I had zero amps between the positive cable and the battery. So I picked up a manual at the library, and it said I should pull fuses and look for 12 volts across the terminals when the key is off. I understand that I should find some fuses hot at all times, so I eliminated every thing that has a memory and everything that works without the keys in the ignition, which eliminates my list (ie, cigarete lighter, hazzard lights, radio, etc.). The only systems that I had power to and could not identify were in the fuse box under the hood, I could not read the lable on the cover, do you know where I can find a picture of them?
Also, the system that still questions me is the power locks. I only measured 6 volts across that fuse, shouldent that be 12 volts?

My wife drove the car to a store, she was inside for 30 min or so - when she came out the battery was completely dead. When I arrived (about an hour or two later) I hooked the jumper cables and they started to smoke I unhooked them looked at a couple of fuses hooked them back - after about fifteen minutes of jumping the car started - but the battery was dead when I got home. What am I looking for?

The battery was dead - wouldn't take a charge. I think it was the original or at least a dealer replacement. I put a new battery in and had a parasitic draw of.046.
I pull each fuse on the driver's side individually until I pulled the one next to the gray box ( the bottom left hand side if you are looking straight on.) According to the eautorepair guide that you advertise it is marked CLSTR/BCM. When I pulled that one the draw dropped to.001.

I hooked the new battery up and drove it to the nearest auto parts store. The alt is putting out 32 -35 amps rather than the 102 amps expected. The guy testing it seemed to think that the abnormal drawdown might even be coming from this. And another wrinkle in this my radio now doesn't work.

Actually the radio doesn't do anything - no display at all. I didn't know how the lock thing worked. This is like there is no power.
I plan to go to Napa today for the alernator.

Took longer to get to this than I expected, but the new alt is in. I'm still getting a draw - now it is down to 0.40, so at least I'm making some headway - but that's still too high right?