Anti theft immobilizer, how to disarm the alarm

Tiny
JOHN MORSE JR.
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 NISSAN PATHFINDER
  • 222,300 MILES
Door lock switch got wet. The doors locked and I tried to open drivers door. Alarm went off. How do I get it running now? I don t have key-less entry and my ignition key will not lock the driver side door. It will only unlock it. The trunk/hatch latch and handle are broken.
Tuesday, May 19th, 2020 AT 10:24 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
I attached the process on how to disarm the alarm system. The fact that unlocking the door with the key set it off tells me the smart entrance module did not see the unlock with the key which could be due to the lock being damaged.

I would suggest, disconnecting the battery for an hour and reconnect it and see if the system is still active. If it is, try unlocking the passenger side door with the key and see if that disarms the system.

If none of this works, we may need to check for codes and see if it is telling us anything. This older vehicle may not set any codes but we need to check.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing
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Wednesday, May 20th, 2020 AT 10:59 AM
Tiny
JOHN MORSE JR.
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I had an aftermarket viper 550 ESP remote start system in it. I cut that all out where they had it spliced into the wiring harness. They only totally cut one wire in half and the rest of the wires they just expose the wire in the harness and made contact with it that way and didn’t cut the lines. I cut all those out and put the big black and yellow wire back together. Again I tried to start it and nothing. All the lights and the door dinger stereo everything comes on and works but when I turn it to the start position nothing. Is there something I’ll have to take it to the factory to have them programmed into the computer?
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Sunday, May 24th, 2020 AT 3:01 PM
Tiny
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Was the vehicle running before you cut this out? Doesn't sound like it should have been that big of a deal if they just spliced into wiring. So if the car was running prior to all of this then we need to just review the wires just to double check and make sure there is not one still unhooked or shorted.

Then I would suggest we scan for codes because when these things happen, they normally have an open circuit code that will point us in the right direction.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Let me know about this and we can go from there. Thanks
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Monday, May 25th, 2020 AT 3:51 PM
Tiny
JOHN MORSE JR.
  • MEMBER
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I’m going to start over.
1996 pathfinder. 220,000+ miles. The driver side window is down a little bit and it was raining when I got out to get gas. The lock switch got wet and caused my doors to lock on their own and I didn’t know it until I tried to get back in after pumping gas. The alarm was activated.
The back hatch opener/handle broke previously and I had to remove it within a hammer and screwdriver to open it long before this alarm problem.
So I went in through the hatch and unlocked hug doors. Popped the hood and unhooked the battery and let it set.
Several minutes later I hooked it back up and the horn was beeping and lights were flashing still. I unhooked it again. Then I removed the control relays under the hood labeled about theft horn and the one labeled anti theft head lights. And reconnected the battery. Lights and horn stopped.I reinstalled the relays to the anti theft spots tried to start it and when key is turned to the start position all I hear is a relay clicking under the dash near the fuses.
I decided to remove the unit, a “ viper 550 esp remote start aftermarket system is in there.
I watched a video and removed the system. The only wire that was cut thru was the thick black with yellow stripe. All the other wires were spliced in and taped. None were cut.
I traced all of them and cut the viper 550 esp out and taped the wires so there were no bare wires exposed. I reconnected the black with yellow stripe thick gauge wire together. Tried to start it again and still have the same problem.
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Friday, May 29th, 2020 AT 7:28 PM
Tiny
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Okay. I understand better now what happened. Was this viper system just a remote start system or was it an alarm as well? Your vehicle should have been equipped with an alarm system that can be deactivated by using the key to unlock either of the front doors or the hatch. Due to the hatch being broken that lock cylinder is out but the manual says unlocking either front door will ground the smart entrance system and it will disarm the system.

I understand that the keys were probably in the vehicle when it locked on its own which is why you had to go through the back. However, now that you have it opened, I assume unlocking the doors with the key will disarm it. You will need to hook both fuses back up and then try both doors and see if the alarm is deactivated.

If not then I suspect the door lock is shorted not allowing it to disarm. However, let's start with this and go from there. Thanks
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+1
Saturday, May 30th, 2020 AT 3:30 PM
Tiny
JOHN MORSE JR.
  • MEMBER
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I was able to unlock the back glass and everything was reset. Now yesterday the vehicle wouldn’t start I left it parked where I was at overnight and went to it this morning before work when I unlock the drivers door with the key it sounded the alarm I went and open the back glass again the alarm shut off. I went and tried to ignition and it started right up. When I got out of work I tried to start it it would not start. It would not turn over it just made a click in the relays under the dash. So I locked the vehicle And use the key to unlock the drivers door to set the alarm off activate it and the alarm sounded I went to the back glass opened it with the key and the alarm stopped. I tried the ignition to start it and it just clicked in the relays under the dash. I thought maybe where the sun was shining in it the relays got hot so I took them out and I’m sitting at work in the shade letting them cool.
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Friday, June 12th, 2020 AT 2:01 PM
Tiny
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Sounds like you have a driver door lock issue that does not ground the control module to deactivate the alarm but clearly the tailgate works as it should.

As for it not starting or the relays clicking, that sounds like a possible battery issue. Have you tested the battery recently? If not, just take the battery out and take it to a parts store and they will test it for free.

I would suggest just unlocking the vehicle from the rear so the alarm doesn't go off until we figure out why the driver door doesn't deactivate the alarm.

Let me know if the battery tests okay and we can go from there. Thanks
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Saturday, June 13th, 2020 AT 7:32 PM

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