Alternator burned now problems ensue?

Battery voltage is at 11.54 engine running cold start. Purge unplugged. Just started the car. We’ll see how long it runs. Is it possible I bought a bad VVT solenoid from Napa?

Okay, it’s still running but I’m going to shut it off as it’s extremely low on fuel and I want to be able to get it on the trailer if needed.

Update: I’ve replaced the battery and alternator with all new, also replaced the VVT Solenoid as well as the jumper harness. The car stays running now but P0013 is persistent and battery light is flashing/on. I’m leaning towards a fried pcm but I can’t be positive. I did find a fusible link in the alternator wire and did a voltage test on both sides of the link, it’s registering voltage through the link. No alternator fuse in the fuse box. I think it’s a pcm issue because the CEL and persistent P0013 code as well as the battery light. The battery light indicates a fault in the charging system and the p0013 code says there’s a short or an open somewhere, I can’t find a short, bad ground or burnt/broken wire. There is continuity to the vvt on the ground and positive. I’m hoping there’s power making it to the vvt but don’t want to mess things up worse trying to check for voltage as I’d have to take the intake off again and probe for voltage on a brand new jumper harness.

I’m at a total loss here now, so my option now is to take it to the stealership for further diagnostics.

Any suggestions or ideas are very welcome and I appreciate all of it.

I did the voltage test with the car off and put the black/ground to ground and positive/red probe into the wire just before the link, it showed battery voltage of 11.5 or so, then probed again just after the link and it showed the same voltage.

I didn’t put the ground to the positive for the test, I’m using a loaner multimeter and didn’t want to end up frying it.

I meant to get a picture of the link but forgot. But this image is basically what it looked like.

With the engine running it first showed 12.9 V, but letting it sit and idle, it dropped charge to 10 and continued to drop.

I towed the Jeep to have an ASE certified diagnostic ran so they can test the PCM, alternator, as well as check pwm signals and actuate the solenoids, valves, etc. There’s no way I can afford to have them do any of the labor or buy their parts, so I figured the next best thing is to have them diagnose the expensive parts like PCM and then I’ll source the part myself and install, unless it needs programming. Then I’ve no choice but to save up. Though I did find a PCM from AutoZone at a much nicer price and they say it’s plug and play so that’s my backup plan for that part. But I digress, that’s all dependent of the results. I will be getting the car back hopefully soon and with deeper knowledge of what or where the issue is and combining that with all of everyone’s extremely appreciated time, help, and advice I’ll be able to piece this back together.

On another related note, I cannot find a name or # for the “engine harness assembly”, so I’m trying to source parts that are likely the culprit to cover my bases. This harness assembly starts from the PCM and wraps around the intake manifold but has “forks” everywhere that go to all the electrical. It includes the MDS/VVT solenoid jumper harness. The MDS/VVT jumper harness clips into the main assembly. I’m trying to find said assembly just in case it’s a short somewhere in that because I am terrified of tearing into that wiring so I’d rather just replace the whole thing if possible. This is the MDS/VVT jumper harness part # that I’ve already replaced 05148163AE. Looking for the rest of the assembly that part plugs into.

@ AL514
@MATHGEN

Thank you for your time and help with this. The problem has been fixed. A new PCM was the solution.
I took it in to the dealership on 4-28-2023, waited the UAW stike out and finally got the PCM in on 11-28-2023. They had it installed and it’s now in my driveway again. Though the TPMS light is on and shows the fr flat line and rr continuously fluctuating. The light flashes and then stays lit. Thinking it’s just the sensors but will diagnose in the daylight.

Thanks again for all your help fellas, much appreciated!

JACOBANDNICKOLAS,

Yes, I replaced the whole charging system before I replaced the PCM.
Battery, alternator, jumper harness, and VVT solenoid. After bashing my head against walls and getting nowhere with removing a P0013 code that seemed to be permanent, I had come to the conclusion that when the alternator fried, it also took a good bite out of the PCM, because it was showing codes that belong to Caterpillar and Prius code C1600, as well as the stuck P0013 code along with ac relay codes and a few others. Under the intake manifold is the VVT and jumper harness, the harness and top of the block has a thick foam padding that mice love to nest in. Mine was nested in and the mice had chewed some of the plastic insulation off the jumper harness and it was showing copper, not chewed through, just stripped a little bit but enough to potentially cause problems. All in all, I spent about 20-30 labor hours as well as about $2,200.00 to fully fix it.

It’s just like new now and no more x-mas tree lights in the dash.

LepriKaan

Joe,

So, do you think it’s possible to put in a resistor or a voltage regulator of some kind between the PCM and alternator as a precaution?

Something like this:
https://mopar1973man.com/topic/15349-electrical-article-alternator-and-pcm-protection/