All power windows do not work?

Hello DURANGODODGE,

My information is telling me there is a circuit breaker behind the left kick panel that powers the windows. However, it looks like it also runs power to the sunroof motor (if you have it), as well as the power locks and door modules.

But locks work fine, it's only the windows that aren't working. I think testing the circuit breaker is a good first step so we can make sure there isn't an issue with it so we can rule it out.

To do this you will need a multimeter.

Here is an inexpensive one I found if you don't have one:

https://amzn.to/3NUrAOd

Here are some instructions to use one if you haven't before:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

What you need to do is pull it out slightly so that it is still connected but you are able to put the test lead on it.

Touch the black lead to a known good ground on the body.

Then take the red lead and touch one terminal then the other on the circuit breaker.

You should have 12 volts with the key on engine off on both terminals.

If only one terminal has 12 volts, the breaker is bad and needs to be replaced.

If you don't have power on either terminal could be power supply issue or ground.

I am adding a wire diagram for you, as well as an image of the location based on my information.

I am also adding a picture of the part.

If you need it, I found one on RockAuto for you here:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2009,durango,4.7l+v8,1442700,electrical,circuit+breaker,2504

Part number is CB191125 from BUSSMAN. Your local auto parts store should have it as well.

Let me know if you need any help when you go to test and based on what we find we can go from there.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello DURANGODODGE,

You're welcome. Happy to help. I would so we know whether it is getting power there or not or if there is any other information we can gain from that area. We will need it either way to do some more testing plus it is a good tool to have.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello DURANGODODGE,

The best place would be behind that same kick panel. This is usually a common ground location.

Best thing to do is to remove the sill, it is the piece of trim held in with clips.

Then I would take off the kick panel so you can have room to work.

I have included a picture of both. Looks like the kick panel might be held in with some screws. Usually, it will have a clip too.

You will need a tool designed to help remove these pieces. Usually called a trim puller.

I have added a picture for you. Your local auto parts store should have some as well as Amazon.

Then you will have access to ground. So anywhere on the body that will have no paint is the best spot but usually there is a bolt with a bunch of wires attached to it in this area. You can just touch one of those bolts on the top. Make sure it is screwed into the body.

Another good spot is the bracket for the e-brake as long as it's bare steel if not a bolt that holds it to the body is a good spot. Brake pedal bracket could work as well.

Also, when you get the tester make sure it has a continuity tester, which will make an audible beep if the circuit is complete. We will need this feature to do testing down the road.

Also make sure it has a fuse in it. They all should but all meters are not created equal, so just double check. This will help save other wiring or modules from being damaged in the event something might get touched with the leads and exceeds a certain amperage.

Go slow when pulling the trim especially in that area as it often rusts the clips over the years which make them swell and become tighter.

Here is a set I found:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=ec73c939a5abe0efbea2abd6d172f1b7&content-id=amzn1.sym.cd95889f-432f-43a7-8ec8-833616493f4a%3Aamzn1.sym.cd95889f-432f-43a7-8ec8-833616493f4a&hsa_cr_id=9652649400101&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=948d692c-1ce0-4f36-aff1-ce5846840382&pd_rd_w=BfZJx&pd_rd_wg=4Rbt3&qid=1688223995&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0_img&sr=1-1-9e67e56a-6f64-441f-a281-df67fc737124&th=1

I have included an image of a typical body ground.

Here is a link to an article that explains it further if you are interested:
https://www.thedashcamstore.com/how-to-identify-a-proper-ground-point/

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello DURANGODODGE,

The leads are backwards. The black one needs to go in COM and the red lead will go where you have the black lead now. Make sure the meter is off before you put the leads in.

Sorry I should have mentioned that.

Then turn it back on and see what it does. It should auto-calibrate.

If it is still acting up put it on resistance which is the omega symbol, 2 up from where you are, and touch the 2 leads together and see if it shows any reading. It should be 00.0.

That ground in the picture is perfect. Put the black lead on that and try again on the circuit breaker.

So far it looks like you have some power, but I am wondering if the meter is faulty, or it just wasn't a good area to ground to. The meter seems like it might have gotten damaged in shipping but let's not condemn it yet.

With a small amount of voltage, it can be power or ground that is causing it. By attaching directly to that body ground, we know we have a good ground. If we don't have a good enough ground the voltage reading will be lower on the meter but not necessarily mean it doesn't have 12 volts on the breaker.

So, use that ground in the picture after switching the leads and see if anything changes. Also check the instructions and see if there is a calibrating procedure for it. Hitting "Range" might calibrate it.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello DURANGODODGE,

No, as long as it is only out far enough to get the leads on it. You can pull it out and then you should only have voltage on one of the terminals in the fuse box. Only touch don't push into it, or the fuse box might be damaged, and the circuit breaker won't fit correctly anymore.

Unfortunately, though I think there is something wrong with that meter. I don't know the seller, I suggested it because it was cheap and had all the features you would need to test properly. I would contact the seller and return it. I think it got slammed around in shipping and is damaged.

I would run to your local auto parts store and grab one unfortunately, so you can continue testing. Make sure it has a continuity test with an audible beep and a backlit screen.

I got my newest one from Home Depot. Here is the link:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-400-Amp-Digital-Clamp-Meter-AC-Auto-Ranging-with-Temp-CL220/312649913

If you have one in your area maybe you can go pick it up.

It is a great meter and has all the features you will need. I didn't recommend it because it is $70. Comes with everything including the batteries. I use it in the house too, so I needed the AMP clamp. But it is very accurate.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello DURANGODODGE,

Wow thank you so much, I really appreciate that.

$175 on labor that's crazy! I am glad to hear everything is working though.

An external ground to me sounds like he by-passed the original ground. There is a black with a light green tracer or stripe. It comes from the driver's side switch and ends in the center of the vehicle according to what the wiring diagram says. It's funny, after we were done with the circuit breaker testing, I was going to have you check for continuity on that ground wire. They probably moved it to keep from having to remove the seats and center console. Which would have cost a lot more in labor, especially with their labor rate.

The fuse box looks like it might be grease but it's hard to tell. Some of the terminals do look like they might be corroded though. Probably looks way worse inside.

I am happy to hear everything worked out in the end and thank you for your kind words, you made my weekend.

Thank you very much, that's very generous of you. We would really appreciate your donation. Here is a link that will take you to our Go Fund Me page:
https://gofund.me/c7d318ad

It has been a pleasure working with you and if you have any more questions please do not hesitate to ask.

Have a great weekend!
Brendon

Hello DURANGODODGE,

You're welcome and thank you very much!

Thank you,
Brendon