Alarm activated

Guessing doen not work. You need to perform tests to find out. Get a testlight ready and have you done as advised?

TRANSMITTER PROGRAMMING
Insert ignition key into ignition switch. Turn ignition switch to ON position. Within 10 seconds, press and hold valet switch for at least 5 seconds. See Fig. 1 . The sound of lock actuators turning to UNLOCK will be audible.
NOTE:If radio tuner is ON, it will go off and come on again when programming procedure is completed.

Within 10 seconds, press one of the transmitter buttons. The sound of lock actuators turning to UNLOCK will be audible.
Turn ignition switch to OFF position. After storing its code, ensure transmitter works properly by repeatedly pressing one of its buttons. System begins working after pressing any transmitter button 6 times.
NOTE:If it is desired to program codes of more than one transmitter, repeat step 2) within 10 seconds with next transmitter.

Fig. 1: Storing Transmitter Codes
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

How did you bypass the starter?

In one of my previous post I told you to use a remote wire to apply battery voltage to the starter solenoid. That is the proper way. Using a screwdiver and at the wrong terminals, that can mean disaster if anything goes wrong. Under such testing, the starter would run but it is not going to engage as the pinion gear is not being pushed out by the solenoid.

At starter disconnect ONLY the solenoid wire.
Get a piece of wire, add a fuse to it and attach one end to the starter solenoid terminal. Touch the other end to the battery positive terminal and see if it cranks. Remember to have the vehicle in NEUTRAL.

Just for confirmation in case the starter is good. We would be doing other testings from here so I need to be very sure I understand you correctly the present conditions and symptoms.

1. No clicking noise when ignition key is turned to crank engine. True/False.
2. Security light stays on during cranking.
3. Dash indicator lights stays on when turned to On or while cranking.
4. Clicking noise of relay underdash, during ignition on or while cranking?
5. Was anything done prior to this occurring?

We are working on whatever information you have provided and if you do not provide the correct information or do not perform work as we suggested, we would be wasting our time as the desired result is not achieved.

We shall concentrate on the starting circuit for now. The starting system is rather simple and not many items to check. Get a DVOM and test light ready and go through the wiring schematics I have attached to understand the system first.

Hi MrDanJK,

There is a possibility by wiggling the wire harness, you have cause further damage to a bad wire or you could have dislodged the wire connectors.
I would suggest unpluggint the door wire harness connector to check for contaminations or loose contacts. You would have to crawl under the dash to get at the connectors at the side kick panel.

Hey ZAYMONEY,

If installed correctly you could add a second layer of immobilization of the vehicle.

This would however give you one more thing to potentially fail and cause you a non start condition.

If you are more worried about the car getting stolen than it potentially not starting then going down this route is a workable option.

Which motor do you have in your vehicle, I see the options for a 1.5L either 8V, 16V or 16V with VTEC.

Let us know which motor you have and we can provide you with schematics and suggestions of where is best to install a switch.

Regards, Joe

I think you said the key word "aftermarket". I hate alarm systems, but I know there is often a need or a percieved need. You have three options:

1. Pull the alarm out of the car
2. Contact the manufacturer
3. Provide much more info on the system in the off chance that someone else knows about it and hope they respond.