Airbag Light On

Hello,

It sounds like you have a fuse out here is the airbag wiring diagrams which show the fuses you need to check to fix the problem. This guide will help with the diagrams below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse


Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Hi everyone,

I have the LE model. It gave an issue regarding to my Airbag light in my dashboard ever since I changed the D transmission light bulb couple of days ago in my dashboard since it was burned out. Once I was finished my Airbag warning light turned on. I did a diagnostic flashing a 41 code. I read here to clear that code i need to go to the DLC 1 or DLC 2 putting two separate grounding wires in TC and AB then alternate back and forth grounding TC for ten seconds so my warning light could flash constantly. However, I am not sure which is a good source of grounding wire because I used two paperclips and small alligator clips that are negative and positive but it did not work. Can you guys provide me links for a good grounding wire or tell me a different way I can do this that is more simple to clear this error code in step by step?

By the way here is what I used in the picture to troubleshoot the error code.

Thank you so much.

I just replied to your question in another thread and since you have this, it should be much easier. Just use two pins or paper clips inserted into the desired position and clip on the wire leads, just make sure you do not get the two shorted to each other as it would interfere with the procedures.

Computer problem
1992 Toyota Camry 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

What does air bag code 13 mean. I ran the OBD test and this is the code I got.

Hello –

I have provided the info you requested…………

Code 13 (Short In Squib Circuit Between D+ & D- , Part 1 Of 6). Camry – you need to have this check to ensure your airbag system is working properly.

Electrical problem 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 128000 miles

Air bag warning light in dash stays lit. How can I clear this out? The air bag has never been activated. The car has never had a collision.

Hi Street Rat, When the airbag indicator lights stays on after more then 6 seconds when the ignition switch is turned, a malfunction code has been detected by the center air bag sensor assy. (IMAGES BELOW) You would need to retrieve the trouble code to find out what is causing the problem. AIR BAG RESTRAINT SYSTEM -1992 Toyota Camry LE Diagnostic Code Check 1. Jump together terminals Tc and E1 of Total Diagnostic Communication Link (TDCL) connector TDCL is located under left side of instrument panel near fuse block. 2. Read diagnostic codes by noting number of AIR BAG warning light flashes. Normal code indication will flash light twice per second. If a malfunction code is present, first number of code number will equal first digit of a 2-digit diagnostic code. After a 1.5-second pause, second number of code number will equal second digit.

3. If 2 or more codes are present, a 2.5-second pause will occur between codes. After all codes are displayed, a 4-second pause will occur and codes will be repeated. After code has been identified, see appropriate diagnostic code and perform tests as specified. 4. If more than one malfunction code is present, codes will flash from smallest numbered code to highest. If malfunction code is not displayed or is continuously displayed, see TROUBLE SHOOTING. If AIR BAG warning light remains illuminated and diagnostic code is normal code, a source voltage drop is present. This malfunction is not stored in memory. If power source voltage returns to normal after approximately 10 seconds, AIR BAG warning light will automatically go out. See DIAGNOSTIC CODE NORMAL, SOURCE VOLTAGE DROP under TROUBLE SHOOTING. 5. Code 22 is recorded when a malfunction is present in air bag warning light system. If an open circuit is present in air bag warning light circuit, AIR BAG warning light will not glow. Diagnostic codes (including Code 22) cannot be confirmed until warning light circuit is repaired. 6. When a malfunction is present in SRS, malfunction Codes 11 through 31 are displayed. After repair of malfunction, Codes 11 through 31 can be cleared from memory but Code 41 will remain. A special procedure is required to clear a Code 41. NOTE: On all models when clearing all other codes except Code 41, use Clearing Malfunction Codes (Except Code 41) procedure. On all modes with Code 41 only, use Clearing Malfunction Code 41 procedure. Clearing Malfunction Codes (Except Code 41) Turn ignition switch to OFF position. Remove negative battery cable or ECU "B" fuse for at least 10 seconds to clear codes. When reconnecting battery, ensure ignition switch is in LOCK position. If battery is connected with ignition switch in ACC or ON position, diagnostic system may not operate correctly. Clearing Malfunction Code 41 1. Connect wire probes to check connector/TDCL terminals Tc and AB. See Fig. 13. Turn ignition switch to ACC or ON position and wait approximately 6 seconds. Starting with Tc terminal, apply body ground alternately to terminal Tc and terminal AB twice each, in cycles of .5-1.5 seconds. 2. When alternating probes between body ground, simultaneously release one probe from body ground while applying ground to other terminal. If time interval is too long, Code 41 will not clear. After several seconds, when AIR BAG warning light starts to blink a regular cycle, Code 41 cancellation is complete.

Found it was a bad Air Bag ECM in console that fixed the problem, Thanks for guys this site rocks :)

Glad to know the problem has been fixed.

Have a nice day.

Hi KHLOW2008,

I have the same issue and I'm having a hard time understanding wire probes to reset my error. Some also say 'grounding' or 'ground wire which I don't know what type of wire is that. I tried with paperclips and small jumper clips that are negative and positive but no luck. I already understanding the procedure but I think I'm missing the right equipment to do so. Can you provide my links so I have an idea what I need to buy to take this error code off my dashboard?

Forget about what others say so that you have a clear mind to do this. When you ground a wire, it means connecting the end of the wire to a grounding point, it could be anywhere on bare metal of the vehicle that is connected to the battery negative terminal.

To perform the DTC erasing procedure, get 2 wires and individually plug into each of the terminals described in procedure below. You can use paper clips attached to the wires so that the clips will hold the wires in position in the prescribed terminals

Locate a suitable grounding point and holding one wire in each hand, alternately ground according to the method and timing below.

Check this out.

Clearing Malfunction Code 41

1. Connect wire probes to check connector/TDCL terminals Tc and AB. See Fig. 13. Turn ignition switch to ACC or ON position and wait approximately 6 seconds. Starting with Tc terminal, apply body ground alternately to terminal Tc and terminal AB twice each, in cycles of .5-1.5 seconds.

2. When alternating probes between body ground, simultaneously release one probe from body ground while applying ground to other terminal. If time interval is too long, Code 41 will not clear. After several seconds, when AIR BAG warning light starts to blink a regular cycle, Code 41 cancellation is complete.

Hi KHLOW2008,

Thank you so much for the response. I knew I was doing something wrong. Because what I was doing was using alligator clips connected on the end of the paperclips while doing the procedure. I had a feeling I should of done it with just the wires instead.

Several more questions if you don't mind. Which grounding wire do I use to attach with the paperclips? I looked online and found out it's copperwire. Is that true or there is other ground wire I can get? Do I also get electrical tape to attach the end of the grounding wire with the paperclips? That way I can reach bare metal for my ground?

Thank you so much.

You can use any wire. The wire set with clips you have now would be good enough. Clamp one end to a paper clip for plugging into the terminal and touch the other end to a grounding point.

Do you mean the alligator clips that are negative and positive? All right then I'll try that tomorrow. Now when you say touch the other end to a grounding point do I just simply touch the ground not clamp it? I figured it would be a much faster process if I just touch the ground rather than clamp it since I need to alternate quickly between the two terminals.

Good call, sounds like it will work as well.

Update. I have successfully cleared the AIRBAG code! I did what you told me and it helped a lot. It took at least many tries to get the speed down which was a quick alternating between the terminals. Many said 0.2 seconds but I didn't think too much about it and just went quickly.

Here is my summary of what I did. I use the ground wire that was thin twisted copper that my father let me borrowed and used the alligator clips to clamp at the end of each wire and placed it in the DLC 1. I then used my ground near the DLC 1 that had three bolts around it and clean it off two bolts but only used one. Now the alternating between grounding the Tc and AB it was done through trial and error. I tried using the ground wire (thin twisted copper) itself, quickly clamping the ground with the alligator clips, different locations of ground, different speeds of alternating with the ground. None have worked, until I relaxed a bit and tried to do it as simple as possible. Which was touching the ground with the alligator clips without clamping since I figured it was mess up my quick timing. Then my father saw the code flash quickly. Once I took off the alligator clip from the ground, which was the Tc, the error code cleared up. I turned on my car twice to see if it stayed on but it didn't.

Thank you so much for your help and I gave my summary if anybody who had the same problem as me so they have an idea what they can do to clear the AIRBAG code. I will add photos in a bit so they have a clear visual what they need and will do.

Also before I post the pictures. KHLOW2008, I see you posted pictures of the 1992 Toyota Camry LE of Fig.13 and Fig.15 of the AIRBAG procedure to clear the code. I would like to know where can I get the actual book to have as a reference for future issues. Is there website you downloaded the book and what is the book called?

Thank you.

Glad to know you have resolved the problem. Information we have are from Mitchel, an online provider. You can copy the information and save to file. Likewise just save this link and you can always come back.

Thank you KHLOW2008 just to make sure is this the link to the online provider where you get your information?

http://www.eautorepair.net/marketing/default.asp?VID=&Count=Y

It says Mitchell DIY. I just want to make sure. Again thank you very much.

As for the photos here they are.

The first three photos is my set up. I got a pair of test leads from AutoZone and the ground wire, which is the thin twisted copper, clamp on one end of the ground wire in the nose of the alligator clips

Now the fourth picture is the screws I used for my ground near the DLC 1 box. You'll notice the bottom two are clean which is important to do so to have better ground current. But I only used one to keep it simple. In this case I used the bottom left.

Finally the last picture is how I managed to clear the airbag code after a few trial and error methods. You simply just touch the screw with the alligator clip. I recommend to have a faster timing alternation is to prepare closely to the screw with your alligator clips NOT TOUCHING IT but being near it. This way after the six seconds mark, you have a faster timing alternation between the terminals to the ground since you'll use both of them to clear the code.

I hope this helps for anybody who has the same issue and I apologize for the quality of the pictures.

This is great! nice work please add to the site anytime you are on.

Cheers, Ken

Read codes and got a code 22 and changed the center airbag module under the console and cleared codes turned on key and now getting a code 14. i checked the clock spring with an ohmmeter and there is constant continuity even while turning the wheel. i do not think it is the clock spring, and i do not think the center airbag module is bad, but, because i am getting the code 14, open in squib circuit, i believe the actual airbag has a resistance problem or open. how can i check the resistance of the airbag itself and also what exactly should the resistance be? i have seen on the internet where if you put a resistor of proper value in place of a faulty airbag , the light will go out because the ecm now senses proper resistance. i need help troubleshooting the airbag on the steering wheel i think now.

STOP! Most ohm meters run on four double "A" batteries or a nine volt transistor battery. We use nine volt batteries to light off an air bag for demonstrations. An ohm meter will do the same thing.

Also, if you unplug the air bag or the squib, every bright yellow connector has a shorting bar in it to short the two wires together. That is to make the air bag immune to static discharge while the circuit is being serviced or the air bag is being handled. If you are measuring between two connectors, one part is going to have that shorting bar.

No one I know has ever tried to measure a clock spring, which goes against normal procedures. We normally want to verify a part is defective before we order a replacement, but in this case, given the age of the car and the mileage, a bad clock spring can be expected. The wiring is real reliable, so unless a connector has been damaged, don't go looking for something obscure. If the fault code was related to an open squib, replace the clock spring. The additional clue is anything else on the steering wheel will also fail shortly. Typically that is the horn and cruise control. Once the ribbon cable starts to break near one end, all of the circuits will become open real soon.

Okay, let me investigate it further. Thanks, I appreciate your concern of me working on the airbag. I know that the ohmmeter can trigger the airbag so during all of my circuit trouble shooting the actual airbag on the steering wheel was removed/unplugged and set aside and there are not any more than that one, ie, on the dash. As far as the clock spring, i can see the shorting bars on the connector end where it plugs into the other connector on the lower steering column. I do not see any shorting bars on the connector that actually snaps into the back of the airbag. I will look at it further and let you know.The horn and cruise controls were working fine at the time of my airbag problem. The only thing i was doing to the car before this happened was evac and charging the air conditioner system and replacing the receiver drier on the front drivers side. I will look at my clock-spring and get back with you. Historically has the airbag in the steering wheel on these cars been known to go bad? Thanks, and trust me i am being careful with the airbag. Your thoughts?

Air bag failure is pretty much unheard of. The shorting bars are only in places that a lack of them would leave the bag susceptible to static discharge. That means you'll find one inside the connector on the back of the air bag assembly, but one isn't needed on the wire coming out of the clock spring. Similarly, the wire traveling up the steering column is plugged in either on back of the clock spring or at the base of the steering column. In that connector, if you unplug it, the top half has the terminals going to the air bag, so that will have the shorting bar. There's no need for a shorting bar on the lower part that goes to the computer module.

With the air bag set aside, you can safely measure continuity of the squib, or "initiator" wire. If you have tilt steering wheel, moving it repeatedly can cause those wires to break and make intermittent contact. Be sure to move the steering wheel up and down while taking those readings.

If the car was crashed in the past, usually the connector at the back of the air bag melts from the heat of the burning rocket fuel, and that requires replacing the clock spring. If it didn't melt, and someone reused it, check for deformed terminals that aren't making good contact. Be aware too that around that time period, a lot of fault codes for the squib referred simply to a "shorted OR open" condition. A melted or deformed plastic finger on the connector could fail to move the shorting bar away from the terminals. That would cause a shorted condition. To measure for a shorted squib with an ohm meter you have to push the shorting bar away from the terminals.

Also, most Air Bag Computers will shut the system down permanently during that key cycle when an intermittent problem is detected. The problem may correct itself during 99 percent of the time, including while you're taking measurements. In that case, the fault code is all you have to go on This is where we just replace the clock spring as it's the only logical cause of an open squib. We will guess wrong so seldom that in those rare cases, the additional time we need for diagnostics is tiny compared to the time we didn't waste on all the other cars.

Hello Sir,

Need some direction on a issue with airbag light staying on. I retrieved a p-code 22 which is associated with the airbag indicator lamp circuit. When I removed the radio and the instrument cluster and reinstalled
everything is when the light would not go off. I checked the lamp again and its fine. Check for good connection as well. Do you have any resolutions or recommendations?

Two things. Did you have the battery disconnected with you were doing this? If so, you more then likely missed a connection and it is causing an open circuit. If not, you may have a shorted center airbag sensor.

Here is the testing that you need to run through to fry and find this issue. Let me know if you have questions. Thanks

Yeah, unfortunately I did not disconnect the negative battery terminal. My fault. I will troubleshoot first. Appreciate this very much sir.

Kenny, I have no voltage at LA terminal of the Airbag Center Sensor assembly. I actually tested all of the exactly how the Diagnostic steps instructed.

Okay. We can figure that out but can you give me the exact info on your vehicle? Make, model, year, engine?

We just need to make sure that yours is the same as listed on this post.
Then I can get you the wiring info for your vehicle rather then possibly confusing things with just posting the wiring info on a different vehicle. Thanks

Kenny, my sincere apologies. I double and triple checked LA pin at the plug while disconnected from center airbag sensor assembly and I did get the 10-14 volts. Note: The Airbag Warning Light stays off when disconnected and comes back on when connected to the Sensor Assembly. I hope I'm understanding this correctly, on the voltage test. If it has correct voltage, is it asking if the warning light is on while disconnected from the Sensor Assembly?
Here is the vehicle info you requested:
VIN 4T1GK12E3SU111723
1995 Toyota Camry LE 4-DR Sedan AT,
3.0 L 2994 cc 1MZ-FE

Thank you Kenny.

okay . That is great. What this step is asking you to do is disconnect the battery. Connect the sensor back to the connector. Reconnect the battery and then turn the key on. Does the light come on? It may not stay on but when you turn the ignition on, the airbag light should do its self check where the light turns on and then off. If it stays on that is fine, it just means you have a code.

Sounds like your light does come on when it is connected. If it does then it is asking you to go to the next step and check the fuse and circuit as you may have a wiring issue.

Keep in mind it is important to follow the practice of taking the battery negative terminal off when connecting and disconnecting these connectors. If you don't and you get a quick short or spark the air bag can go off and that will injure you.

Just let me know if this is what is happening when you do this test and we can go from there. Thanks

Yeah, I've always disconnected the battery when plugging or unplugging these type connections.
So how do I proceed? I got voltage, airbag warning light stays lit still, ECU fuse is good, still get code 22.
So do I need to jump to the step where I disconnect the steering wheel airbag spuib connection, right?

Yes. Take a look at the attachment. I show you are here where it is saying you need to clear the code, wait the proper amount of time and then check it again. If it comes back you need to replace the assembly.

Okay, thank you Sir. much appreciated. One more thing Kenny, can you recommend a good quality scanner that covers engine, transmission, ABS and SRS with ability to clear codes? The DLC 1 in the engine compartment is obd 1 and it has the most pins and capabilities available than DLC 2 (round) under the driver's side kick panel. There is a DLC 3 but it literally has 2 wire's going to it. Odd. May be they tried to put OBD 2 since 1995/is when OBD 2 became the standard. I'll shoot some close up pics of all 3.
Thanks bud for all the time and effort.

Hello, I'm Danny.

Just to add my 2 cents here. If you want a good scanner for less money than professional grade I would take a look at Innova brand. Picture below. It's about $250.00 but can be used on both obd1 and obd2. All you have to do is attach an adapter to be one or the other. If you get the right one it covers all systems you mentioned. I bought one myself when my Snap-On scanner was stolen and it works great. Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Awesome. I'll be looking in to it. Thank you very much to you, Kenny and 2CarPros!

You're welcome!
Thanks for using 2CarPros and hope you will use our site again in the future. Happy Thanksgiving.

Danny-

this car never has accident and the air bag light it on please you can help me?

Hi COMERCIALAUTOSERVICE, Thank you for the donation. When the ABS indicator is showing, it could be any fault with the sensors and you would have to go into the self diagnostic mode to retrieve the trouble code. Here are the procedures and there are 2 different types of DLC so you need to check which is the correct one. Diagnostic Code Check 1. Jump together terminals Tc and E1 of Total Diagnostic Communication Link (TDCL) connector using a jumper harness.

TDCL is located under left side of instrument panel near fuse block. On alternate models, jump underhood check connector terminals Tc and E1

2. Read diagnostic codes by noting number of AIR BAG warning light flashes.

Normal code indication will flash light twice per second. If a malfunction code is present, first number of code number will equal first digit of a 2-digit diagnostic code. After a 1.5-second pause, second number of code number will equal second digit. 3. If 2 or more codes are present, a 2.5-second pause will occur between codes. After all codes are displayed, a 4-second pause will occur and codes will be repeated. After code has been identified, see appropriate diagnostic code and perform tests as specified. 4. If more than one malfunction code is present, codes will flash from smallest numbered code to highest. If malfunction code is not displayed or is continuously displayed, go to TROUBLE SHOOTING. If AIR BAG warning light remains illuminated and diagnostic code is normal code, a source voltage drop is present. This malfunction is not stored in memory. If power source voltage returns to normal after approximately 10 seconds, AIR BAG warning light will automatically go out. 5. Code 22 is recorded when a malfunction is present in air bag warning light system. If an open circuit is present in air bag warning light circuit, AIR BAG warning light will not glow. Diagnostic codes (including Code 22) cannot be confirmed until warning light circuit is repaired. 6. When a malfunction is present in SRS, malfunction Codes 11 through 31 are displayed. After repair of malfunction, Codes 11 through 31 can be cleared from memory but Code 41 will remain. A special procedure is required to clear a Code 41. NOTE: On all models when clearing all other codes except Code 41, use Clearing Malfunction Codes (Except Code 41) procedure. On all modes with Code 41 only, use Clearing Malfunction Code 41 procedure. Clearing Malfunction Codes (Except Code 41) Turn ignition switch to OFF position. Remove negative battery cable or ECU "B" fuse for at least 10 seconds to clear codes. When reconnecting battery, ensure ignition switch is in LOCK position. If battery is connected with ignition switch in ACC or ON position, diagnostic system may not operate correctly. Clearing Malfunction Code 41 1. Connect wire probes to check connector/TDCL terminals Tc and AB. See Fig. 13 or Fig. 14 . Turn ignition switch to ACC or ON position and wait approximately 6 seconds. Starting with Tc terminal, apply body ground alternately to terminal Tc and terminal AB twice each, in cycles of .5-1.5 seconds. 2. When alternating probes between body ground, simultaneously release one probe from body ground while applying ground to other terminal. If time interval is too long, Code 41 will not clear. After several seconds, when AIR BAG warning light starts to blink a regular cycle, Code 41 cancellation is complete.