Will not start after sitting for a year with the battery disconnected?

Hi,

The computer shouldn't need to be reset. If possible, follow the directions in this link and see if there are codes stored.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/honda-car-1990-1995-obd1-code-retrieval-procedure-and-definition-table

Next, in most cases, a crank with no start is caused by either no spark at the spark plugs or fuel isn't getting into the engine. Try this. See if the engine starts or tries to start using starting fluid. If it does and stalls, we know it is a fuel-related issue. If there is no change, I need you to check for spark at the plugs.

Here is a link that explains how this is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

Try that and let me know the results.

Take care,

Joe

Hi.

Okay, let's figure this out. First, I attached the starter circuit wiring schematic below so that you have a reference. I had to cut the pic in half to make it readable, but I did overlap them.

See if the vehicle will start if you place it in neutral. Do this first before proceeding to the following tests. If it does, let me know.

On the schematic, I highlighted the relevant wiring. Power from the battery goes through two fuses to the ignition switch. I suspect those are okay if the lights turn on. So, I need you to jump to the starter cut relay. This is what will actuate the starter motor.

At the relay, there are four pins. Two are for the primary side and two for the secondary. When you turn the key to the start position, power from the switch travels to two pins where the relay presses in. The primary side on the relay itself will indicate numbers, 85 and 86. One of the two will receive power. Confirm that for me.

The secondary side of the relay will have two numbers as well, 30 and 87. One of the two will get power when the key is in the start position. Check for that as well.

I'm sorry I can't tell you the specific pin will get power because the manufacturers change things and when testing, you can't assume one will always be the one to check.

Now, if you find both have power, then I need you to check the primary side opposite pin for continuity to ground when the key is in the start position. This will be either pin 85 or 86 (the opposite one with power). If it has power, then we need to check the trigger wire at the starter motor.

At the starter, there will be a smaller gauge black wire with a white tracer. With the key in the start position, check for power at that wire. The key needs to be in the start position; otherwise, it won't have power.

Here is a link you may find helpful as well, it covers testing a relay circuit:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Hi,

That is the wire that triggers the starter motor. That is the black wire with a white tracer. It is the one we needed to check for power with the key in the start position. LOL

Regardless, if you have a chance, could you let me know if that resolves the issue? I'm interested in knowing.

Take care and thanks for the update.

Joe

Thanks for the update. I'm glad to know it's running, also, I love the video.

Take care of yourself and feel free to come back anytime in the future.

Joe