1999 Acura Integra $$$$please help--will pay good if proble

Tiny
F4I_GUY
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An ls-vtec is a major job my friend.

You will need to machine the v-tec head to accept the larger NON-VTEC dowell pins, you will need to thread and put a plug into the main oil gallery for the cylinder head, then run an external oil line from your oil pressure sensor into the back of the cylinder head (you will need to purchase $120 SS line plus fittings for this). Then you will need to do a v-tec timing belt AND water pump, ARP head studs, and you will need to convert to an obd1 ECU and get it tuned by a professional on a software such as neptune, hondata, etc.

I'm sure I am missing a few small pieces of info needed, but an ls-vtec just isn't a straight plug and play.

To do a proper compression test on these motors, unplug the ECM F/I fuse in the underhood fuse box (15A), remove all four spark plugs so that there is no extra resistance on the motor while cranking. First do a dry test (meaning no oil in the cylinder) right down your recording. Place a capful of oil into the cylinder and re-test. Record all your numbers and post them up for us. Also, hold the throttle down while compression testing.
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Tuesday, January 13th, 2009 AT 5:21 PM
Tiny
RICHMCNEAL
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Thanks for the info on ls v-tec. If the motor needs replaced or whatever I will just get factory parts. I did not get to check the compression yesterday as a friend was using my compression tester. I will definatley get it done today as I get off at 4. Also if I went with a gsr engine my intake, header, catback, etc. Would not go on correct either, correct?
Thanks,
rich
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Wednesday, January 14th, 2009 AT 9:02 AM
Tiny
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The header and exhaust would work. You might have to get some slight exhaust work to bolt the header to the catalytic convertor.

The intake will not work, the GS-R intake manifold is a bread all on its own.
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Wednesday, January 14th, 2009 AT 4:21 PM
Tiny
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Ok, just put a capfull of oil into each cylinder through the head. My compression went from 90 to about 180, so it doubled. So I ut the plugs in and tried to start it and it went to start but didnt. So I pulled the plugs back out. As I suspected they were soacked with oil. They can not give sark with oil on them. So I cleaned them with starter fluid. How do I make it where they wont get the oil on them so I can see if it will atleast start. What is the problem
thanks
rich
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Thursday, January 15th, 2009 AT 12:51 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
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Crank it let it sit oil will go past rings. Then shoot a little carb cleaner in each cyl. Crank and then put plugs in. Put engine on TDC #1 does it line up want to see if T belt is O.K.
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Thursday, January 15th, 2009 AT 1:10 PM
Tiny
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Timing belt is fine I already checked that first. I will check again tonight or in the morning though. I let the oil sit overnight. That should be long enough? I tried starting again after about 2 hours and the plugs just got soaked with oil again. Can not spark if they are wet. What else do I need to check besides the timing belt?
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Friday, January 16th, 2009 AT 5:27 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
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Over night should do the trick and oil will lube rings to bring compresion back. Even with new plugs oil will cause carbon tracing carb cleaner O.K. But will still track up ceramic to ground. May nneed new plugs
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Friday, January 16th, 2009 AT 6:37 PM
Tiny
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Ok. Doc, I went this morning before I ut the plugs back in and rechecked the compression on all 4 cylinders this time #1 130 #2 90 #3 70 and #4 190. What is the problem. I ut the plugs in and no start?Is my engine bad.
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Saturday, January 17th, 2009 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
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So my main question is I guess is it engine problems or something else. Do I need to rebuild the engine or replace it? Or can mine be fixed?
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Saturday, January 17th, 2009 AT 3:39 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
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Yes rings are shot you can rebuild if you do the work and send necessary things to machine shop you might spend @$800. A shop will probably be $2000 to $3000. You can get a low milage engine from Japan for @$1500 plus labor to R&R. Get some estimates that will help you decide.
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Sunday, January 18th, 2009 AT 12:47 PM
Tiny
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Ok well thank you DOC. You are the man. I am a mechanic myself so I will be doing the work my self. And website you would recommend to get an engine from for cheap.I found one for 800 with 100,000 miles on it. Which isn't to bad. One question though. If I rebuild the engine would it run faster?
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Sunday, January 18th, 2009 AT 12:56 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
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Try www. Nihonmotors. Com
If you rebuilt would be like a new engine and you may have cam options and piston choices to bump up horsepower.
Seems like the F4I-guy is rather knowledgable maybe you could pm him and get his input.
Good luck let me know how it turns out
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Sunday, January 18th, 2009 AT 1:14 PM

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