Car will not start

I have read conflicting information that ford may have removed the anti theft feature from the arc correct me if I am wrong. As for spark and fuel my uncle is a retired mechanic and is going to take a look at it and tell me if it tries starting with some fuel in the carburetor. He says the PNP switch would prevent cranking of the engine at all if it where to be malfunctioning. "Not sure if this is with all vehicles so that may still be an option" I cant take it back to the shop the work was done as that shop no longer exists. I will keep this post updated as I get more information. I will also look into the PNP connection if nothing else works. Any extra thoughts would be much appreciated. The car went in running, came out cranking but not starting.

The car came out of the shop cranking but not starting* anyway yeah I think the PNP switch is ruled out. Hopefully the fuel pump/filter is not toast I cant see how the pump would just die after the clutch was replaced, but it will be a lot of fun dropping that gas tank if it the fuel pump died. Is it possible that the clutch isn't aligned properly keeping the engine from starting?

Okay sorry for the long delay, the car has been through a lot of checking. So the engine cranked, but got no fuel pressure or spark. The car may have been sabotaged while in some of the cheap shops it was sent to here is why I think that. We checked the engine fuse box and found a missing fuel pump relay. So we had to go out and buy a new one, we then found that the fuel pump would kick on and supply the engine with 25-30 pounds of pressure, this is below factory and the fuel pump probably needs to be replaced, but it should be enough to atleast get the car to start atleast for a moment. At this point the car still wasn't starting, (no spark) so we decided to replace the Distributor because in the 1997 version of the car the Crank position sensor is in the distributor, so we would be killing two birds with one stone. Success. Kind of, now the engine sparks, cranks, and fuel pressure is good. But the injectors are not firing. We found a plug that had multiple wires going to it, but the bridge plug thing that grounded all the connections was missing (another sign of sabotage) I'm not sure what the plug is called, but we found that by bridging the wires together using some wire connectors everything seems to come to life. The car wasn't getting spark or fuel before fixing those wires. The sparkplug wires where randomized in the original disty (yet another sign of sabotage) and the fuel cut off switch was triggered, nothing major has been noticed other than those issues. The car has little signs of rust, and will start puffing if you put gas directly into the intake. So the only issue we have now, is the injectors are not firing to give the engine fuel to start. What would prevent the injectors from firing? We have tried two computers as well.

So I just got off the phone with my uncle who is working on the car currently, and after some messing around the injectors are finally firing, however the pump is no longer sending any pressure to the engine, when he gets time he is gonna bypass the fuel pump and force gas directly into the line to see if the engine starts sputtering or starts briefly. If so, we are gonna drop the tank swap out the fuel pump/strainer, and possibly the float as well (the fuel gauge is stuck on E all the time). Hopefully the car will fire right up, he made sure that the timing belt didn't skip any teeth as well, so hopefully the car will start soon.I'm getting excited, almost out of the woods :D

I forgot about this post oops.

I'm sorry It took so long to reply, but I finally have hands on the car, and I got it started. The timing belt was bad (Timing belt was way off), distributor was also bad, fuel tank was full of sludge, and the fuel pump was rusted out. The strainer for the Fuel pump was disintegrated, the fuel filter was rattly and broken, the fuel pump relay was missing.
Vacuum leaks all over the place (I replaced all of the vacuum lines, and Intake, throttle body gaskets)
Once all of that was taken care of I got the car to fire up.

- Other issues
thermostat bad - fixed
battery bad - fixed
ac leak -fixed
2 bad o2 sensors - fixed
Bad knock sensor - fixed
all 4 brake rotors rusted badly - fixed
Spark plug wires bad - fixed
MAP sensor causing fuel trims to spike and fall rapidly - asking about in another post.
Etc etc.

So my uncle did a bit of tinkering around with the car, but after I got ahold of it I did all of the work above myself.
I actually have a new issue regarding open loop, but that will be in posted in a new question to keep things organized.

Thanks for the help of everybody who chimed in. It turns out pretty much everything was preventing the car from starting, Air, spark, and fuel where missing.

Engine Mechanical problem 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

I have a 1997 Ford Probe GT 4 cyl will not start. I have heard it might be the distributor or the ICM but I can't seem to locate the ICM anywhere.

Hi, I have ford probe 2.0 1997, overheated causing blown head gasket, resurfaced the head and changed the headgasket and now it doesn't start,
checked the timing belt and it's set correctly, spark plugs are new, checked the spark on the wires comming from the coil and all have a spark, checked all wiers and hoses and everything is in its place, after a contious try crancking only the first and second cyl got warm, the fourth and third cyl still cold so now burning on those cylinders. What could be the problem?

Is there any adjustment should be done to the ignition coil? I saw there's a brace there and wonder if it has a role on timing adjustment?

No I didn't, the 10 bolts have been torqued following the sequence provided on hayness manual.

Would like to add an input here, it has a steady crank and no "pop" there or backfiring, but when I touch the exhaust tube for Cyl 2 is warm! The first is less warm than 2. Cyl 3 and 4 are totlly cold.