No spark

Hi,

Have you checked the crankshaft position sensor? Make sure it is plugged in and there is no damage to the wiring. Also, if you have a live data scanner, see if there is an RPM signal when you crank the engine. If there isn't suspect the sensor may have been damaged when you had things apart.

I attached a pic of the sensor location below. Also, here are a few links you may find of interest:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Hi,

Okay. I suspect that is the problem. The sensor shouldn't be loose. Here is a link that explains common symptoms and one that explains how in general one is replaced.

Also, when you had the timing cover off, are you sure the reluctor ring was properly installed? See pic 4.

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https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement
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Here are directions specific to your vehicle.
'
1997 Chevy Truck C 1500 Suburban 2WD V8-5.7L VIN R
Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
Vehicle Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Computers and Control Systems Crankshaft Position Sensor Service and Repair Procedures Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR REPLACEMENT

pic 1
pic 2
pic 3

REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector.
2. Remove the sensor hold down bolt.
3. Remove the sensor from the timing cover.

NOTE: When installing or removing a crankshaft position (CKP) sensor make sure the sensor is fully seated and held stationary in the front cover before torquing the hold down bolt into the front cover. A sensor which is not seated may result in erratic operation and lead to the setting of false codes.

4. Inspect the sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage. Replace if necessary. Lube the new O-ring with clean engine oil before installing.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

NOTE: Make certain that the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor mounting surfaces are clean and free of burrs before installing the CKP sensor.

1. Install the sensor into the timing cover.
2. Install the sensor hold down bolt.

Tighten
Tighten the hold down bolt to 8 Nm (71 lb in).

3. Install the electrical connector.

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Let me know what you find, if this helps, or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

Here is a test for the coil. Follow these directions and let me know the results. The attached picture correlates with the directions.

1997 Chevy Truck C 1500 Suburban 2WD V8-5.7L VIN R
Ignition Coil Test
Vehicle Powertrain Management Ignition System Ignition Coil Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics Ignition Coil Test
IGNITION COIL TEST

pic 1

IGNITION COIL TEST
Make sure the ignition switch is "OFF."

1. Disconnect the distributor lead and wiring from the ignition coil.

CAUTION: Do not Insert the J 39200 probe into the ignition coil connectors. The female terminals could be spread and deformed, resulting In intermittent operation of the coil. Be sure to make contact with only the front edge of the terminals.

2. Connect an ohmmeter as shown in Figure, step 1. Use the high scale. The reading should be infinite. If not, replace the coil.
3. Connect the ohmmeter as shown in Figure, step 2. Use the low scale. The reading should be 0.2 - 0.5 ohms. If not, replace the coil.
4. Connect the ohmmeter as shown in Figure, step 3. Use the high scale. The meter should read 5k - 25k ohms. If not, replace the coil.
5. Reconnect the distributor lead and wiring to the coil.

Hi,

As long as it wasn't backfiring through the intake, I wouldn't be too concerned. If it is, that's a different story.

Since degree wasn't adjusted with the aftermarket cam, the valves may not be fully seated causing the white smoke. Are you getting a backfire? As far as camshaft degree, with the different lifts on the new cam, timing is compromised. The point where lift begins and reaches peak requires manipulating engine timing in relationship to TDC. Keep in mind, when the engine was designed, it was designed for a specific cam lift for timing. When you chance that, you often times have to change how the camand crankshaft are timed in conjunction with each other. Interestingly, it is usually only a small number of degrees but that can make a big difference when it comes to performance.

As far as the cam, did you have the engine completely taken apart? How much do you know about setting camshaft degree? It takes a bit of time, and to be honest, the only way I know how to do it requires the cylinder heads to be off to accurately reach TDC on the number 1 piston and then determine camshaft lift specs (which should be provided by the cam manufacturer) to get timing correct. I apologize for asking that question. For all I know, you may be better at it than me. I'm just trying to get an understanding of what you are comfortable with. Also, and I'm being honest, I question if I can explain it to you via a link.

The ignition timing can't be changed without reprogramming the PCM. However, you can check the camshaft retard offset. Here are the directions, but I question if this is going to help. The attached picture correlates with these directions.

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1997 Chevy Truck C 1500 Suburban 2WD V8-5.7L VIN R
Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment
Vehicle Powertrain Management Ignition System Ignition Timing Adjustments Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment
CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT

Description
imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

TEST PROCEDURE
The ignition timing cannot be adjusted. The distributor may need adjusting to prevent crossfire. To insure proper alignment of the distributor, perform the following:

1. With the ignition OFF, install a scan tool to the DLC.
2. Start the engine and bring to normal operating temperature.

IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.

3. Increase engine speed to 1000 RPM.
4. Monitor the Cam Retard Offset.
5. If the Cam Retard indicates a value of 0° +/-2°, the distributor is properly adjusted.
6. If the Cam Retard does not indicate 0° +/-2°, the distributor must be adjusted.

ADJUSTING PROCEDURE
1. With the engine OFF, slightly loosen the distributor hold down bolt.

IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.

2. Start the engine and raise engine speed to 1000 RPM.

3. Using a scan tool monitor Cam Retard Offset.

4. Rotate the distributor as follows:
4.1. To compensate for a negative reading, rotate the distributor in the counterclockwise direction.
4.2. To compensate for a positive reading, rotate the distributor in the clockwise direction.

5. Repeat step 4 until 0° +/-2°, is obtained.

6. Turn the ignition OFF.

7. Tighten the distributor hold-down bolt to 3 Nm (25 lb. Ft.).

8. Start the engine, raise engine speed to 1000 RPM and recheck Camshaft Retard Offset.

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When you said it isn't running too good, can you describe what is happening or even upload a video of it running so I can hear it? Also, when cranking it, does it sound like a timing issue?

Let me know and again, sorry for so many questions.
Joe

If it is backfiring through the intake, you will hear it. Take a look through this link and see if it helps at all. Also, make sure the fuel pressure is within spec (not too low or too high).

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-backfires-while-running

Let me know.

Joe

I'm glad to hear you got if fixed. Honestly, that isn't a hard mistake to make. It happens. Regardless, please feel free to come back anytime you have questions. Also, I'm certain the thread you listed will help others. Thank you for that.

Take care and I hope you have a nice Christmas.

Joe

If you crank it now with a live data scanner attached, do you have an RPM signal?

Check the ground on the rear of the cylinder head. Make sure it is in good condition and not damaged. See pic 1.

Joe

It should not have power on the ground side If the light is turning off on the power feed side or flickering, you have a bad connection. There is a splice that may be bad in the wire to the coil. Also, if you look at pic 2, it shows the EST (electronic spark timing) signal wire. Are you getting a signal there?