Overheats when driving?

Tiny
BIG-VIC-64750
  • MEMBER
  • 2014 DODGE DURANGO
  • 3.6L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 136,000 MILES
Vehicle listed above is a Limited model. Overheats when driving.
It was running a radiator cleaner for 30 minutes and didn't overheat.
Just replaced the thermostat and radiator cap
No leaks at all.
Heater wasn't working but after the first rad flush it started working.
Thursday, December 26th, 2024 AT 11:37 AM

34 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Overheating in motion is commonly a radiator issue. They get plugged even partially and the coolant doesn't do its job. You say the heater also wasn't working, that points to the same thing. For the heater core I use CLR and a circulating pump. Basically, connect the pump, run clean water through it and drain it out. Then blow out the water and fill a bucket with CLR, let the pump pull in the CLR and circulate it through the core and back to the bucket. After 45 minutes or so I use air to push the CLR out. Then flush with clear water. Now connect it back up and top off the coolant.
For a radiator the price and time it takes to swap it out usually is nothing like the cost of a heater core, so they get swapped out. You could try a flush if you have the time. A Denso radiator with HD cooling is $120.00. It takes about 3 hours to DIY removing and replacing it. You can do it without pulling the charge out of the AC system, but it's faster if you do. You can get enough room by tilting the core out of the way.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-radiator
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Thursday, December 26th, 2024 AT 1:04 PM
Tiny
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I have a transfer pump, is that the same?
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Thursday, December 26th, 2024 AT 1:49 PM
Tiny
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I also just this morning cancelled the heater pump lines? Did I do it right?
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Thursday, December 26th, 2024 AT 1:52 PM
Tiny
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Ran some clr through the radiator but didn't have the right adapters to fit snug and keep all the water in. Did notice that the water came out clear and plentyfull. Doesn't seem to have obstructions.
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Thursday, December 26th, 2024 AT 3:57 PM
Tiny
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The funnel kit boils and gargles then sucks all the water in then spits it out then I refill until full the radiator makes these crackling sounds its really weird.
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Thursday, December 26th, 2024 AT 4:15 PM
Tiny
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Video.
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Thursday, December 26th, 2024 AT 4:16 PM
Tiny
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Twice when test driving since it won't overheat idling it first popped off an end cap to the heater hose then a lower rad hose to the water pump. Both where slipped on the radiator hose I didn't put the hose clamp correctly.
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Thursday, December 26th, 2024 AT 4:17 PM
Tiny
BIG-VIC-64750
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Third test drive no hoses or end caps came off I have the heater hoses to the heater core capped off and the heater hoses to the engine connected with a 5/8 to 3/4 tee and the third outlet capped atm. I was able to make it back to base, but the temperature gauge did eventually creep over to the danger zone. Will run a combustion leak detector to single out a possible bad head gasket.
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Thursday, December 26th, 2024 AT 4:40 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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On most modern vehicles bypassing the heater is okay if the core is leaking. The problem with seeing clean water flow is that the radiator is a parallel flow core. As such you could have good flow across a 4-inch path in the top of the radiator, but the rest could be plugged solid. You could try using an IR thermometer to look at the core when it's warmed up, if you have a couple bands across it that were at say 190 degrees, but the rest was at 90 then you can see it's blocked. A bad head gasket would normally show itself a lot more because the combustion gas would not only heat the water but pressurize it as well. However, it won't hurt to rule that out.
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Thursday, December 26th, 2024 AT 9:29 PM
Tiny
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Will do that tomorrow, thank you sir.
Kind regards, Big Vic
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Thursday, December 26th, 2024 AT 10:04 PM
Tiny
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I conducted a combustion leak test and blue liquid slightly turned yellow.
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Thursday, December 26th, 2024 AT 11:24 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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That isn't a good sign, but I would verify it. Then you might want to look at blue devil sealant. I've had it work a few times as long as you follow the directions.
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Saturday, December 28th, 2024 AT 4:25 AM
Tiny
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Will try this and get back. Ordered the radiator just in case its s flow problem. Someone told me there's a coolant purge valve somewhere on the top area of the engine on Dodges?
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Saturday, December 28th, 2024 AT 11:30 PM
Tiny
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Air purge valve location and procedure?
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Saturday, December 28th, 2024 AT 11:32 PM
Tiny
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Chatgpt spit this out.
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Saturday, December 28th, 2024 AT 11:34 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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On the 3.6 there is a bleeder on the thermostat housing. You can see it in the attached and in the first picture you posted. The normal process is to open that with a cold engine, add coolant until it starts to run out of that, then close it and continue adding coolant until the bottle reads full cold. Now start the engine and let it run until the thermostat opens. Shut it off and let it cool down. As it cools off watch the level and add coolant to keep it at full cold. Repeat the start and run process a second time. If the coolant hits full hot you are good.
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Sunday, December 29th, 2024 AT 8:12 AM
Tiny
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Will do.
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Sunday, December 29th, 2024 AT 8:43 AM
Tiny
BIG-VIC-64750
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  • 2014 DODGE DURANGO
  • 3.6L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 135,000 MILES
Overheats when driving.
Temperature gauge fluctuates once but then eventually overheats
Left idling for 30 min didn't overheat once?
Tried running a bars stop leak and didn't work.
Flushed the cooling system.
Burped the cooling system but didn't help.
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Sunday, December 29th, 2024 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Has the thermostat been replaced? The thermostat on this vehicle is replaced as a unit with the thermostat housing and is a simple replacement.

If you haven't, that is where I would start. I attached the directions below specific to this vehicle. Let me know if you have already done this or if replacing it helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Sunday, December 29th, 2024 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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Yes. Radiator cap and thermostat. Did a combustion leak test and blue liquid turned slight yellow. The weird thing is I poured a bar block sealer, and I was able to drive a bit but then a heater hose end cap came off and I made it back home. I went ahead and used the funnel kit to refill the radiator. I think I'm not burping the system correctly because if I leave the car on with the funnel kit on it throws all the water out. I think maybe the radiator is also a culprit, but I did run CLR through it and the water flow seemed adequate. Another thing is I the bars head gasket sealer which is aluminum block and heads compatible but its back to overheating when driving.
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Sunday, December 29th, 2024 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)

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