Engine Overheating?

Tiny
JAMESNOKLAHOMA
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 DODGE DURANGO
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 92,000 MILES
I have a 99 Durango. When I am driving on the highway, the engine stays cool, but when I get in town the engine begins to overheat. I have checked the coolant level, and the fan. Could it be the thermostat, or something worse. I have checked for leaks under the vehicle and there is none, the engine is very clean. Please Help!
Also, the AC does not blow that cold, and it seems to be fine too.
Thursday, July 29th, 2010 AT 7:05 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
This sound sliekt he fan clutch is out but to be sure this guide can help us find out what's going on and fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Tuesday, August 3rd, 2010 AT 5:54 PM
Tiny
TROYCORRO
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 DODGE DURANGO
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 114,356 MILES
My engine overheats but not to the point of red warning, then it wnet back to normal almost everytime I drive.
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 6:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Check coolant level in radiator and add if needed make sure truck cool before opening rad cap
check and or replace thermostat
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 6:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TAILUR061005
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 DODGE DURANGO
  • 5.9L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 210,000 MILES
So I started with it over heating when it was running. Replaced water pump thermostat/housing. Fixed it for a couple days then started again. Flushed heater core fixed the overheating while driving, but now it is still overheating while idling. There is a leak but I can't tell where it is coming from. There is coolant everywhere! Even around wheel well on passenger side.
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 6:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello, I'm Danny.

First thing you need to do is find the leak. If you don't have access to a coolant pressure tester most local auto parts have a tool loaner program and will rent you one. Here is a tutorial showing what is involved:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/radiator-pressure-test

Basically it pressurizes the cooling system with the engine off and forces the coolant from where it's leaking. Let me know if you have any further questions on this.Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 6:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
98DODGEKC
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1998 DODGE DURANGO
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 147,000 MILES
I bought my Durango just over a week ago, and everything was fine initially. A few days ago, I started it up and the heater would not blow even warm air, let alone hot. After I started driving, I noticed that the temperature gauge would gradually move up to the red, causing the "Check Gauges" light to come on. After a minute or two, the needle would drop back down to mid-range (approx. 190 or so), and gradually cycle through the process again. I put a new thermostat and gasket on it, and the problem still persists. I've added plenty of water and anti-freeze, and am gradually losing it. I have found that it is leaking coolant, but that it only drips once every three seconds or so when the engine is running and warmed up. I have a Haynes manual, and I've checked the radiator and hoses--no problems there. The leak seems to be on the low back of the engine block, down near the oil pan. I've heard it could be a freeze plug, a water pump, or something else. Any thoughts?

Thanks!
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 6:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
The new thermostat could be bad-retest it-continues to overheat bleed the cooling system - see below that don't work have the tests done.

Always bleed air from cooling system after replacing coolant. Set heater for maximum heat. Remove radiator cap. Loosen drain plug and remove drain bolt (if equipped) from engine block. Drain coolant reservoir. Fill coolant reservoir to MAX mark with 50/50 water-coolant mixture. Loosen bleed bolt and fill radiator up to base of filler neck. Close bleed bolt when coolant flows out without bubbles. Tighten bleed bolt. With radiator cap removed, start and operate engine to normal operating temperature. Add coolant if necessary and check for leaks.

Block and Pressure tests

Have it block and pressure tested-do the block first to pinpoint a combustion leaking into the cooling system or a gas analyzer to sniff for hydrocarbons at the radiator fill neck.

Pressure test: do not do a pressure test if there's leakage at the headgasket this might cause coolant into the cylinders and lock it up or bend a connecting rod if cranked thereafter. The headgasket should be repaired before doing the pressure test.

If the block and pressure test passes check the following: Thermostat, Pressure test the Rad. Cap, Clogged radiator, Fan clutch, Radiator electrical fan, collaspe hoses, water pump.
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 6:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
98DODGEKC
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I've already bled the system, and it actually started blowing hot air from the vents, while maintaining constant temps in the middle of the gauge. However, once I started driving it, it was right back to the same routine of up and down readings and cold air. I have a mechanic (trusted family friend) that is going to block and pressure test the engine in an effort to locate the problem. He's said that the freeze plug problem will cost a lot to fix (cheap part, just lots of labor with dropping the transmission and all), but that it could be any number of other things. I'm in a money crunch, so I'm hoping it's not too bad. If you have any ideas on pricing or what things "should" cost, be sure and pass them along.

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP. What a great website!
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 6:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MOUNTAINMOMMA
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I am at witts end like you, cant fig this out, but as far as freeze plugs my husband is no mechanic and he was able to do 2 freeze plugs, all you have to do is jack up front of truck, if you still have them keep them, unlike us they dissapeared and it was hard to find a match, what the computer at parts store said was not the real ones,
still having problem with overheating tooo.
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 6:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HADLEY2808
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 DODGE DURANGO
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 10,000 MILES
How do I know if I cracked my engine block or if its a blown head gasket?
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 6:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
Doesn't sound like either one. Sounds more like the water pump itself or a core plug near it. Cracked blocks are REAL rare. A cracked cylinder head is more likely and even that is not common. Head gaskets, when they leak outside the engine, will leak rather slowly, and often not at all until pressure builds up in the cooling system. You're overlooking something less serious.
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 6:11 PM (Merged)

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