Instrument cluster not working any suggestions?

Hello,

It sounds like you have a cold solder joint that is causing operational errors. I would remove the cluster and get a rebuilt one. here is a guide that will help you see what you are in for when doing the job.

https://youtu.be/_HEC44xENxw

Here is how it will be on your car.

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

See if the following is of any help.

SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION

The gauge assembly has a self-diagnosis function.

†The beeper drive circuit check
†The indicator drive circuit check
†The LCD segments check
†The gauges drive circuit check (Speedometer, Tachometer, Fuel gauge, Coolant temperature gauge)
†The communication line check (the coolant temperature signal line between the gauge and ECM/PCM)

ENTERING THE SELF-DIAGNOSIS FUNCTION
Before doing the self-diagnosis function, check the No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and No. 10 (7.5A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.

1. Push and hold the trip/reset button.

2. Turn the lighting switch ON.

3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

4. Within 5 sec, turn the lighting switch OFF, then ON and OFF again.

5. Within 5 sec, release the trip/reset button, then push and release the button four times repeatedly.

NOTE:

†While in the self-diagnosis mode, the dash lights brightness controller operates normally.
†While in the self-diagnosis mode, the trip/reset button is used to start the beeper drive circuit check and the gauge drive circuit check.
†If the vehicle speed exceeds 1.2 mph (2 km/h) or the ignition
switch is turned OFF, the self-diagnosis mode ends.

THE BEEPER DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnosis mode, the beeper sounds five times.

THE INDICATOR DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnosis mode, the following indicators blink. Seat belt indicator, Door/trunk indicator, Brake system light, Low fuel indicator, Maintenance required indicator (USA), Washer fluid level indicator light (Canada), Oil pressure light and, A/T gear position indicator (except P, R, N).

THE LCD SEGMENT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnosis mode, the odo/trip segment blinks five times.

THE GAUGE DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnosis mode, the speedometer and the tachometer, the fuel gauge, and the coolant temperature gauge needles sweep from the minimum position to maximum position, then return to the minimum position.

NOTE:
After the beeper stops sounding and the gauge needles return to the minimum position, pushing the trip/reset button starts the beeper drive circuit check (one beep), and the gauge drive circuit check again. The check cannot be started until the needles return to the minimum position. If the gauge needles fail to sweep, replace the gauge assembly.

THE COMMUNICATION LINE CHECK
In the self-diagnosis mode, after the odo/trip LCD segments check, the self-diagnosis starts the communication line check.

If all segments come on, the communication line is OK.

If the word "Error" is indicated, there is a malfunction in the communication line between the gauge assembly, the multiplex control unit, and the ECM/PCM.

ENDING THE SELF-DIAGNOSIS FUNCTION
Turn the ignition switch OFF.

NOTE:
If the vehicle speed exceeds 1.2 mph (2 km/h), the self-diagnosis
function ends.

If any of the checks do not function as specified, replace the gauge assembly.

Yes, it is possible for the instrument cluster to be bad. The mileage can be recalibrated to the one on your vhicle to make it legal.

Apart from the dealer, I am not sure who does it in your area but if you ask around at parts outlets, they might be able to recommend someplace who can do it for you.

Thanks for the input.

It definitely is going to help others.

On the clutch pedal there is a bracket on which a rubber stopper should be installed. It is for cutting off the neutral start switch when pedal is release. Kindly take note that this is only applicable for manual transmission vehicles.

Quite often this stopper would disintegrate due to age. If you look at the brake pedal near the brake switch you should see something similar.

On way of testing is to start vehicle in neutral without depressing the clutch pedal. If engine cranks, the stopper should be missing.

There are 2 stoppers because ther are 2 switches.

Item "B" is the clutch pedal position switch, for the cruise control.
Item "I" is the clutch interlock switch. This is for enabling the starter to be cranked when clutch pedal is depressed

If you depress the clutch pedal, you should be able to see both stoppers from under the dash.

Such stoppers should be available at less than 2 dollars a piece.

You can glue anything you want but anything that is hard would wear the brake switch plunger and damage it, which is a more expensive component.

Whatever you do, you need to ensure the adjustment is correct in order for the switch plungers to be fully depressed with sufficent clearance between pedal to master cylinder push rod.

Buttons fully pushedin is one thing. Sufficient clearance for the clutch master cylinder push rod is another. If there is insufficient clearance, the clutch master cylinder piston would not be able to return fully and pressure would build up, resulting in the clutch selfapplying while driving.

The symptoms you are experiencing could be similar to what others have experienced but the cause could be different.

Go through trouble-shooting guide in above post again and se if you can come up with anything.