Instrument cluster not working any suggestions?

Most likely a fault with the instrument cluster which is common here is how you can replace it. But first lets check the fuses here is a guide to help with the fuse location below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Check out the diagrams (Below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem. You will need to get a rebuilt unit which is programmed to your car through the VIN number.

Hi Amanda fuller,

You have a loose connection somewhere and vibrations/bumps is causing it to come on or go off depending on situation. The best time to perform test is when the gauges do not work.

You would have to remove the meter cluster to perform the test.

Start by wiggling wire harness under dash to fuse box. If they start working where you wiggled, check connectors for contamination or loseness in connection.

Hello,

Lets try to remove all spliced in wires and return the wiring harness to stock. Then lets check the fuses and grounds here are two guides to help with the fuse locations and instrument cluster wiring diagrams below so you can see how the system works.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the diagrams (Below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Problem should not be due to ignition switch as the performance was not affected.

Here are some diagnostics that you can carry out to see if you can get any info.

SELF - DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION

"Â The gauge assembly has a self -diagnosis function.
"Â The beeper drive circuit check
"Â The indicator drive circuit check
"Â The LCD segments check
"Â The gauges drive circuit check (Speedometer, Tachometer, Fuel gauge, Coolant temperature gauge)
"Â The communication line check (the coolant temperature signal line between the gauge and ECM/PCM)

ENTERING THE SELF - DIAGNOSIS FUNCTION
Before doing the self -diagnosis function, check the No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and No. 10 (7.5A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.

1. Push and hold the trip/reset button.
2 . Turn the lighting switch ON.
3 . Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
4 . Within 5 sec, turn the lighting switch OFF, then ON and OFF again.
5 . Within 5 sec, release the trip/reset button, then push and release the button four times repeatedly.

NOTE:

"Â While in the self-diagnosis mode, the dash lights brightness controller operates normally.
"Â While in the self-diagnosis mode, the trip/reset button is used to start the beeper drive circuit check and the gauge drive circuit check.
"Â If the vehicle speed exceeds 1.2 mph (2 km/h) or the ignition switch is turned OFF, the self-diagnosis mode ends.

THE BEEPER DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self -diagnosis mode, the beeper sounds five times.

THE INDICATOR DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self -diagnosis mode, the following indicators blink. Seat belt indicator, Door/trunk indicator, Brake system light, Low fuel indicator, Maintenance required indicator (USA), Washer fluid level indicator light (Canada), Oil pressure light and, A/T gear position indicator (except P, R, N).

THE LCD SEGMENT CHECK
When entering the self -diagnosis mode, the odo/trip segment blinks five times.

THE GAUGE DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self -diagnosis mode, the speedometer and the tachometer, the fuel gauge, and the coolant temperature gauge needles sweep from the minimum position to maximum position, then return to the minimum position.

NOTE: After the beeper stops sounding and the gauge needles return to the minimum position, pushing the trip/reset button starts the beeper
drive circuit check (one beep), and the gauge drive circuit check again. The check cannot be started until the needles return to the minimum position. If the gauge needles fail to sweep, replace the gauge assembly.

THE COMMUNICATION LINE CHECK
In the self -diagnosis mode, after the odo/trip LCD segments check, the self -diagnosis starts the communication line check.

If all segments come on, the communication line is OK.

If the word "Error" is indicated, there is a malfunction in the communication line between the gauge assembly, the multiplex control unit, and the ECM/PCM.

ENDING THE SELF - DIAGNOSIS FUNCTION
Turn the ignition switch OFF.

NOTE: If the vehicle speed exceeds 1.2 mph (2 km/h), the self-diagnosis function ends.

If any of the checks do not function as specified, replace the gauge assembly.

The diagnostics indicates there are no fault within the system and it would be good to perform the test immediately after the problem occurred.

There is a possibility power supply is interrupted causing the problem and that would be a headache to diagnose.

I would not rule out the possibility iof a faulty meter cluster as it could be due so some technical fault of the assembled units and tends to fail intermittently.

Seems you have a fault with the Multiplex Control Unit. It is plugged into the underdash relay box. Check for bad ground circuit connections at the MCU.

The MCU is related to the gauges, stereo, cabin lights and power door locks.

It is built into the underdash fuse relay box.

TROUBLESHOOTING
MODE 1 TEST
1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover.

2. Check the No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/ relay box and the No. 10 (7.5A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.

Are the fuses OK?
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Find and repair the cause of the blown fuse.

3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

If the driver's seatbelt is unbuckled, the seatbelt reminder will chime 6 times.

4. Set the ceiling light to the center position and close all the doors.

5. Connect the special tool (A) to the multiplex inspection connector (B).

6. After about 5 seconds the spotlight and ceiling light should come on for 2 seconds, go out, then blink on for 0.2 second to show the system is now in Mode 1.

Did the spotlight and ceiling light indicate Mode 1?

YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Go to step 7.

7. Check for continuity between terminal 4 of the under-dash fuse/relay box connector J and body ground.

Is there continuity?
YES - Replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
NO - Repair the open in the wire. If the wire is OK, repair G301.

8. If the DTCs are present, the spotlight and ceiling light will blink to indicate the DTC(s). If more than one DTC is present, the DTCs will be displayed in ascending order. If there are no DTCs the spotlight and ceiling light will not blink again after the Mode 1 indication.

Are there any DTCs?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to the Mode 2 test.

9. Troubleshoot the DTC(s) in the order indicated using the following charts.
If a faulty control unit is suspected, substitute it with a known-good part and recheck for DTCs.

†If the DTC(s) is still present, go to the next step instead for the DTC.
†If the DTC(s) is no longer present, replace the original part.

MODE 2 TEST
1. From Mode 1, disconnect the special tool from the multiplex inspection connector for 5 to 10 seconds, and then reconnect it.

2. The spotlight and ceiling light should come on for 2 seconds, go out, then blink twice, 0.2 seconds each time. The system is now in Mode 2.

3. Operate the switches listed below. If the circuit is OK, the spotlight and ceiling lights will blink once. If the circuit is faulty, the lights will not blink.

Tip: Operate the switches most closely related to the problem you are diagnosing is a quick way of testing the circuits integrity.

4. If all inputs were confirmed, or multiple circuits failed at the same time in Mode 2, go to the multiplex sleep mode test. If a single switch fails in Mode 2, troubleshoot its circuit.

MULTIPLEX SLEEP MODE TEST

1. Connect the positive lead of a voltmeter to terminal 10 of the under-dash fuse/relay box connector E (YEL) or K (WHT/GRN) and the negative lead to body ground.

2. Connect ammeter between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post.

3. Remove the special tool from the multiplex inspection connector.

4. Close the doors, the hatch, turn the headlights off, turn off the ignition switch and remove the key.

5. Within 1 minute the voltage on the communication wire (E10 or K10) should change from approx 4 - 10 V to battery voltage and the amperage at the negative battery terminal should drop from approx. 70-80 mA to less than 10 mA.

6. Record your findings and go to the Multiplex Wake-up Test.

MULTIPLEX WAKE-UP TEST

1. From the sleep mode, Wake-up the multiplex system by performing one of the following operations:

Fig. 9: Multiplex Wake-up Test

2. As the system shifts to its active (wake-up) mode, communication wire voltage will return to 4-10 V and the battery terminal current will return to 70-80 mA.

3. If the system does not go into sleep mode or wake-up properly, perform the Multiplex Control Unit Input Test.

NOTE:
If multiplex circuits fail to respond in the Mode 2 tests and/or the multiplex circuit fails to go into sleep mode or wake-up, it may mean that a control unit failed without triggering a DTC in Mode 1. Perform the Multiplex Control Unit Input Test. If the input test confirms that all the inputs are working properly, substitute a known-good multiplex control unit, gauge assembly or ECM one at a time. If after swapping one of the above components the system works properly, replace the original component, it is faulty.