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Fuel pump or fuel relay

Tiny
83MONTESS
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 3.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
Our van was running fine we shut it of and went back to start it a hour later and wont fire. Turn over like a top acts like it wants to but doesnt. Has no codes, great spark, good fuss and relay. We can get it to run if we pour gas down the throttle body. There doesnt seem to be a way to check pressure without buying a $200+ tool. So what do you all think.
Thanks
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Saturday, October 3rd, 2015 AT 6:58 PM

21 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
The 3.3Ls used to have a fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail on top of the engine. That might have gone away by 2007. You can also listen for the hum of the fuel pump for one second after turning on the ignition switch. If you don't hear that, try banging on the bottom of the gas tank while a helper cranks the engine. Chrysler fuel pumps almost always fail by failing to start up. They rarely stop running once they've started running.
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Saturday, October 3rd, 2015 AT 8:08 PM
Tiny
GIRLASH007
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2002 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
What are the symptoms if you have a bad fuel pump or relay? How would I know if I need to replace the fuel pump or fuel pump relay? I ask so when I take it to the auto shop, I have somewhat of idea what would they be telling me and not to get rip off. Great site!
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
The car will not run. Here is a guide and some diagrams (below) so you can do some easy testing. If you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over you should hear the fuel pump in the tank turn on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Please let us know what happens so it will help others.

Cheers
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
THIS IS MIKE
  • MECHANIC
  • 686 POSTS
We recommended that you have the fuel pressure tested to see if you indeed had fuel pressure and at what pressure. Most of the time even if there is fuel going to the engine, if it is not sufficient pressure it will not operate properly. A weak or failing fuel pump can work intermittently before complete failure. If there is no pressure, you may have a circuit or relay that has blown and you will have to manually check the voltage at the pump and relay with a voltmeter. If you have no pressure and there is voltage at the pump, then the pump is bad and needs to be replaced. If there is no voltage at the pump the relay may be bad. If there is voltage to the relay but not out then the relay is bad and needs to be replaced.

Engine temperature has nothing to do with fuel pressure.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GIRLASH007
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thank you Mike for your explanation.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
THIS IS MIKE
  • MECHANIC
  • 686 POSTS
We really do try our best to understand the problem completely before giving advice. The more information we have to start with the better. Similar symptoms can actually be many different problems and without information like what the actual fuel pressure is at the time of the failure it is judgement call on what to and we don't like to guess and just throw parts at a problem until fixed. We are here to try and save people money by systematically diagnosing the problem. Together we will help you get to the solution of your problem and apologize for the rough start.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GIRLASH007
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
We tested it for fuel pressure by using the fuel pressure test gauge. I heard the pump run when I turn the power on, on the car. I check the fuel pressure test gauge and I am not getting any pressure.

After I got the car running I disconnected the straighter valve from the fuel rail line and fuel came out.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
THIS IS MIKE
  • MECHANIC
  • 686 POSTS
Even if fuel comes out a little bit, it needs to be of sufficient pressure to operate the engine properly. The fuel pump can work intermittently before total failure. You will need to replace the fuel pump if you do not have pressure at the fuel rail.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
VICTORIA KELLY
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I have a 2005 Chrysler Tow and Country stow go seat does that need a stronger pump. I changed the fuel pump it is new.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
VICTORIA KELLY
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I put a new fuel pump on went thirty miles and now it will not start. Now it is like it is not getting any gas.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
THIS IS MIKE
  • MECHANIC
  • 686 POSTS
Hi Victoria,
Have the fuel pressure tested with a gauge just to make sure the new pump is working properly. Also, check to see if you are getting power to the injectors. If you have a bad crank angle sensor it will not allow fuel to flow because it senses that there is no engine rotation. If the engine turns over, you have to find out if the problem is the lack of fuel or spark. The computer uses sensors to activate both fuel and spark and also may be the problem.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOE JOHNSON2
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I am having an issue with my 2000 Town and Country. I connected a jumper in place of the relay and was getting power to the fuel pump so I figured it was an issue with the relay. However, after replacing the relay there is no power to the pump. I assume it is something to do with relay box. What could cause the relay not to receive the signal to kick on? There was power to both sides of the relay, so I am kind of at a loss here.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,643 POSTS
Hey,

There is an auto shut down relay that controls the system that had problems with those cars. here is a wiring diagram and a guide so you can do some checks on the relay. The diagram also give location. In integrated power module.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken

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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RANDY PRAZAK
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Have same problem but if I turn the key to on and off a few times it seems to allow it to finnaly start. After I turn it off and try to crank again won't start unless I turn the key to off to on a few times. I can here the pump and it's like by me doing that it brings up the pressure enuff to start when it does it runs but the idealing is rough. I already drop the tank I order a new filter first had to drop the tank mostly ALl the way to get to it lol. Anyway its very dirty and has black stuff come out of it with the gas. I also jump the fule filter to see if it's working at all and it does push gas out. I'm almost sure it's the pump but would like to here what you here have to say
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,643 POSTS
It does sounds like the fuel pump is going out. Here are instructions on how to change the fuel pump out. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EULALIO
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,000 MILES
I have a 2000 Chrysler Town N Country van Xlt 3.3 I drive it a few miles shut it off come back in a few minutes and it won't start, I wait a couple hours and it starts right up. I put a new fuel filter, that didn't solve it, I changed the air Filter that wasn't it either, It's like it heats up the fuel pump or something and it gets no gas to the engine something shuts it down, its the wierdest thing, no gas smell even pumping the accelerator, it turns over but doesn't start, how long are these fuel pumps good for. The van runs smooth as silk when the pump is working. If it is the pump, what can I do to find out the problem. Could it be a relay problem? HELP.
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZACKMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,202 POSTS
Replace your Automatic Shut Down relay, located inside the power distribution center.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/55316_00tcpdc_1.jpg

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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVEL22
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 157,000 MILES
My van stalled today. While I was driving down the freeway (using Cruise Control), the car seemd to accelerate abnormally while going up an incline. It eased up for a second or two and then accelerated again. I shut off the cruise control to regain control of my speed. The gas pedal was limp and I coasted to the side of the road. At first the car would start and just stall out after a few second. I have gone back to check it and it no longer starts up. Is this a fuel pump issue? A friend suggested it may be the fuel pump or it could be an issue with the fuel pump relay. Can you venture a guess?
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Chances are your friend is correct. You can check it two ways. First, and easiest, if the engine will start with starting fluid and run for a few seconds, that means it isn't getting gas. Or, you can check fuel pump pressure with a gauge. Here is a how to video and directions for using a gauge. Most parts stores will lend or rent the gauge to you.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

Let me know what you find. NOTE: If it starts with starting fluid, you will need to check fuel pump pressure regardless to determine if the problem is the pump or an injector issue.

Joe
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Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MKLINT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I have a 2011 Chrysler T&C. This is a great video; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEoUYm-bxXA I also printed the safety recall sheet and took it out with me. It gives confidence before you cut a wire. My dealer gave me a generic, one-size-fits-all relay bypass kit 6814 2156 AC-001 from Mopar. They don't provide any instructions, so you'll need to know; 1. You will also have to buy a 20a inline fuse and ring terminal. I went to Home Depot. 2. Put the wires into the block "feet first" before you start splicing. That way you won't have to double splice everything like I did. 3. The connections to the relay posts are as follows; Brown to 2 (86); Blue to 3 (30); Pink (ignition switch) to 1 (86); Hot (TIPM terminal fused) to 5 (87). This was not an overly difficult job and there was lots of room to work for a nice change. Good Luck!

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Sunday, March 1st, 2020 AT 6:17 AM

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