Car will not start

Tiny
OKCOPIER
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Ok do thinh I have a bougth bad fuel pump? If so let me knowe and Thank's for your support. Have a Goodnight!
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ALEXXTHEGREAT
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The engine size is a 3.2 V6: iT IS POSSIBLE IT IS A BATTERY CONNECTION, BUT THERE IS NO CORRISION AND THE CABLES LOOK LIKE THEY ARE IN GOOD SHAPE. THE STARTER IS NEW AND HAS BEEN TESTED.

Thanks
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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If you have good spark and it still won't start even with starting fluid, either you have a broken timing chain or for some reason there is a major loss of compression.

At this point, I recommend a compression test. If you find cylinders with compression and others with no compression, most likely the chain is broken and you have valves stuck open.
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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It could be bad, you could have a bad regulator, or there could be a block in the supply line. What to do is check the fuel pressure before the fuel filter. That way we can eliminate the filter as an issue.
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
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Our reference doesn't show a 3.2-liter for a 2005 Cadillac CTS. The options for a V-6 engine are 2.8-liter and 3.6-liter.

Here is the starting schematic for the 3.6-liter.
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ABREWER00
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The engine has compression so I am kind of stumped here. It had two codes a p0121 and p0221 tps sensor. Could a faulty tps cause it not to start, I would think it would just cause erratic rpms and overall rough running but would still start. What's your thoughts?
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CADIEMAN
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Click click click is a low or bad battery. Just charge the battery to see if it passes a load test. Then let them check your altenator and that it has no draw on the battery.
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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It could, but it's unlikely. I would think it would have started a couple seconds with starting fluid. That is what is leading me to think the crankshaft sensor is shorting out under load.
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ALEXXTHEGREAT
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The vehicle is a 2003 CTS. The battery is under warranty at Batteries plus. I had them check and watched. I went to autozone and had checked it
with there tester. I went to Advance and they checked it. I tried to
recreate the situation thinking it might be the batterry connection.
I turn the car on and wiggled the cables going to the battery to see if
I could verify there was a loose or broken connection. I could not.
I would think it could be the starter, but the problem was there before
I put the new starter on. Like I say it is intermittent and occurs when
the car is shut off and then I try to recrank without letting it sit to cool. This is why I changed the starter relay. My guess it has to be an electrical connection or the crankshaft position sensor. I did not see
any loose wires or frayed wires when I took the covering off the key ignition in the interior. The only code I have is for an O2 sensor.
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ABREWER00
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Thanks for your response I should be able to recheck compression tomorrow along with the timing belt. I also am going to verify that I have injector pulse while I am there. Tps sensor doesn't make sense to me either just wanted to let you know what codes were on history of computer.
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CADIEMAN
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Have u checked the voltage at the starter yet?
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ABREWER00
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Well I had a chance to check compression and it was good numbers on cylinder were 145 155 180 175 150 and 135. I removed drivers side valve cover and checked timing links on chain in reference to cam sprocket and the flat spots on rear of cam that the book said. So I decided to remove front cover and see if it slipped. After I got cover off I lined up crank reference points and noticed the marks lined up.

The camshafts were lined up correctly on top so I proceeded to the other chain on right side and links also in right place and camshafts were in right position. So what I concluded was someone must have put a chain on this car before and timed cams to crank and just replaced the chains. I understand that this will work since a link is a link but it made it very confusing for the next guy which is me to work on. So long story short I still have a no start I can't figure out thanks.
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
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And had a starter draw test performed?
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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If you are 100% sure it is correct, my guess is either bad computer or bad crankshaft sensor. Here are some diagrams to help you get the problem fixed. (Below)
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ABREWER00
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I was using a Chilton book and all data as references for diagrams. I am pretty sure at this point that timing is correct. I will try the crankshaft sensor, I guess its the only thing left that's easy.
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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I have to be honest, I would think it would be the problem becasue the spark comes and goes like the sensor is having a hard time.
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ABREWER00
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I have GREAT NEWS! The sensor fixed it, I cant believe it after everything I have been through. :) I love this site
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Good to hear, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Cheers
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ABREWER00
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Thanks again!
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ABREWER00
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Where can I send a Donation to help this site?
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Monday, April 29th, 2019 AT 6:00 PM (Merged)

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