Crank but no start, fuel delivery issue

2007 BMW 530i (E60 N52).

I apologize in advance for the lengthy read, but I figure the more information I give the better it is to understand the problem and what has been done so far.

Background:

Car was running beautifully. Noticeable fuel smell coming from underneath the car. Preliminary under car inspection showed wet/fuel stain at the rear of fuel tank. Removed rear seat and fuel pump covers for further inspection. Found left side (driver side) fuel pump was leaking from a hair line crack at the fuel nipple port. This pump has one fuel nipple port only and does not have any external wiring connections. The right side (passenger side) fuel pump was not leaking and had no issues. This pump only has the electrical connection that feed both fuel pumps. Replaced the left side (driver side) fuel pump (not OEM), I started the car, and everything went well. So, I thought.

Issue:
After replacing the left side (driver side) fuel pump (again, not OEM), I started the car ran fine. I will add that the car had to be jump started because the battery died, I can’t recall why it died but it died. Nonetheless, I let it run to charge the battery and it ran beautifully. After about 15 minutes the car began to run rough (as if it was not getting fuel) and very quickly shut off. It only took seconds for it to go from running fine to running rough and finally shutting off. I tried starting the car and nothing. All I got was a crank but no start. My initial thought was that the NEW fuel pump had just failed. We all know that has happened. I further “validated” this by engaging the ignition and cranking the car and did not hear the fuel pump prime or run. So, I epoxied the hair line crack on the known good running old fuel pump overnight. The next afternoon with the epoxy more than cured, I installed the old fuel pump and I get the same crank but no start. No check engine light displayed.

Diagnosis so far: (in no particular order)

PART ONE:
1. Checked battery voltage. Good at 12.89 volts.
2. Checked all fuses at engine compartment, glove box, and trunk. All fuses checked out good.
3. Unable to check fuel pump relay because I have not been able to identify it or its location. (I’ve search everywhere on the web and YouTube) However, I suspect that the fuel pump relay is good as I will explain in the following diagnostic step.
4. Tested fuel pump harness connection for voltage and ground (big red and white wire and big brown wire), both connected and disconnected from the fuel pump connection.
a. With key in and no ignition on (push start button) there is no voltage.
b. With key in and ignition button activated (pushed in but not attempting to crank or start the vehicle) there is no voltage.
c. While attempting to crank and start the vehicle there is now a voltage presence of 10+ volts. (I attribute the slight voltage drop to the starter using it, although I could be wrong)
* However, the fuel pump(s) is/are not priming/running/buzzing.
* This led me to believe that the passenger fuel pump just coincidentally also went bad and could be why the driver side fuel pump is also not getting power to run, and that the fuel pump relay and the fuel control module were good since I was getting voltage at the fuel pump connection harness (the big red and white wire and big brown wire which come from the fuel pump control module).
5. However, I still manually and visually checked fuel pressure at the fuel rail port schrader valve by depressing the valve and no fuel came out from it. Not using a fuel pressure gauge currently since fuel is not even present at the fuel rail port and I have zero pressure.
6. No check engine light and no related codes were present.
7. By the way somewhere along these tests, I also tested the crank sensor by 1. Looking at RPM’s in the instrument panel and 2. By removing it and bench testing it, and testing voltage and signal, and ground to the crank sensor harness. All three are good.

PART TWO:
Order and installed both new aftermarket pumps (not OEM). I still get a crank but no start. Also, still no engine light or codes.

Diagnosis so far: (in no particular order)
1. I retested everything again to make sure I did not miss something. All retests had the same results as in Part One above.
2. I applied direct voltage to fuel pump connection and the fuel pump runs. I ran it for 5-10 seconds twice to “prime/pressurize” the system. And again, I manually and visually checked fuel pressure at the fuel rail port schrader valve by depressing the valve and no fuel came out from it even after directly applying power to it and running it. This baffles me.
3. I disconnected and tested Valvetronic Actuator Motor. With the Ohmmeter set at 2000k and one test lead at either pin and the other test lead at the valvetronic actuator motor’s case I get a reading of 009 ohms. I do not know if this is a good reading or a bad reading. The valvetronic actuator motor was still mounted on the car and the battery was disconnected for this test. (Although I don’t think this is the cause of my crank but no start issue, I tested it anyways. (Per a YouTube video with crank but no start issue)

* Notes:
The starter turns strong.
The battery is fully charged. And I continue to charge it throughout my diagnostic process.
The tank has plenty of fuel.
Both pumps are new.
Crank sensor is good. (Now that I remember it was replaced less than one year ago).
I did disconnect the MAF air flow sensor and tried to start but nothing. (Per a YouTube video with crank but no start issue)
I did disconnect the IBS (intelligent Battery Sensor), but again nothing. (Per a YouTube video with crank but no start issue)
I know there are a hundred things that will make a car crank but not start, however in this case I know that it is because there is no fuel being delivered to the fuel rail and thus the engine. So, let us put all other possibilities aside for now. I am also ruling out the fuel filter, in-line or in-tank, for now because the issue is that the fuel pump(s) are not working.

So, my question is: (considering all that I have mentioned)
1. What would cause the fuel pump(s) to receive power at the BIG Red and White wire coming from the fuel control module but still not prime/run/buzz?
2. If the valvetronic actuator motor was bad, would it crank and no start by cutting or disabling power to the fuel pump? (Keeping in mind that there is no power at the pump when the key and ignition are engaged but there is power at the pump when cranking the vehicle)

Any, and all input is greatly appreciated. Thanks.