Alternator wiring diagram? Alternator bad or is it a faulty sense circuit?

Had to replace the alternator cost me $134.00

Hello, I have another question that I would like to ask you. I have my new alternator on now and the yellow hot wire I have not connected back up yet. Can I start the car now after I hook the hot wire back up without plugging the computer plug in the alternator and if I do will it do any damage to the computer or anything? I have just got through putting a new battery on it? Can you tell me what the red, blue and green wires are for that are on the alternator plug? I think the first checks on voltage and sends it back to the computer what it is charging at. Can you please help me again as soon as possible?

The alternator drops out intermittently. The alternator is a rebuilt one from a reputable shop, they have inspected it and found no problems. Battery is the second brand new battery, the first died from being discharged too deeply. The problem seems completely intermittent and I can't reproduce it, it just happens randomly. When working it charges beautifully, it regulates at 14.2V and drops to 14.1 with headlights & ac on.

The diagram from Chiltons & Haynes manual both list the alternator as having a Yel/Wht charging wire, an Org/Lt Blu wire which goes to battery, Lt Grn/Red which goes to instrument cluster, and Wht/Blk wire which goes back to alternator on cars w/ 3.0L 12Valve & FFV only.

This alternator actually has Yel/Wht which is charging line to battery, Or/Yel which goes to battery, Lt Grn/Red which I can't figure out, and Gry/Wht or Yel which I can't figure out.

Anyone know what the wires actually go to? It doesn't seem to quite match up with the diagram, neither the color codes or the signals. The Grn/Red line seems to change with varying load, like the comptuer feeds the alternator some regulating voltage, I.E. When headlights are switched on, there is a few volts on the line until it brings the battery up to 14.2V, then it drops off. I assume the Gry/Wht or Yel line goes to the instrument cluster, as when the alternator was in fault, the line was.6VDC which would turn the light on, and when it is working it is 4-6VDC.

I'm out of ideas, I'm just trying to help a guy who's down on his luck and just lost his job. He can't afford a new alternator, and I'm not sure if it's even bad. He doesn't know why it was replaced in the first place, but my suspicion is the original may not have been bad. At this point, I think he may just have to replace the alternator again, but if I can find out what the lines actually do or at least where they go I may stand a chance.

Unfortunately, I have lent my code reader out so I couldn't let him borrow it. The check engine light was on so we went to the local auto parts place but the light had gone off by the time we got there & they couldn't pull any codes. He said the light came back on last night so I told him to get it to the dealership asap, hopefully there will be a code. I don't know if he's had this problem before, I really don't have a good history of this car. The alternator and battery were replaced for some reason, he didn't know why though. I wouldn't be surprised if the alternator shop just put a new regulator in it that physically fit and it may not be electrically proper for this car. It looks like they've used a few different pinouts over the years so it's definitely possible. What's strange is it works fine most of the time and regulates beautifully, it just randomly stops charging until it dies. Jump it and it'll start charging again. If it was the wrong regulator I wouldn't think it would work at all.

I appreciate the help on this. I'm sure you've gathered I'm not a mechanic, just trying to help a friend out, so your input has been really valuable. I had no idea there was a TSB for this problem, honestly I didn't even think to look for one.

I'll post the response he gets from Ford once I hear back.

He got the codes read. He said they said there was a bad crankshaft sensor & misfire on cyl 3, but the only code # on the paper was P0316. I told him to get his butt to Ford and see what they think, and if they flash the computer we'll see if it still has troubles afterwords.

I replaced the alternator with a re-built one. But before I replaced the old alternator I noticed the red charging lead had burned off at the alternator, I replaced the connection with a soldered on identical lead, battery is good. The problem I am having is that the alternator is charging at 13.5 to 14.0 volts all the time at some point the alternator starts a high pitch wine, if I disconnect the voltage regulator leads (2 wire clip plug) from the alternator the high pitch wine stops. And the red alternator lead comming off the alternator cool down.

After re-connecting the regulator leads back to the alternator it will run quiet for a while then start the high pitch wine for a while and the red terminal lead gets real hot. Can you help. I do have a certificate of automotive mechanic for basic auto studies.

I have 2000 Ford Taurus. I have replaced the starter and solenoid, alternator, serpentine belt, tensioner, battery and 15a fuse in the #19 slot in the fuse box. Battery still will not receive charge.

Are those in-line fuses going to the alternator?

I will check these fuses. Thanks!
Could the battery cables, if they would have a bare spot on a bad connection be causing this problem?

Put three alternators on car. Battery tested 14 amp, but battery light is still on and power windows will not work now. Fuses are good and control panel is showing power but will not roll up.