Engine shut off while driving?

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

If it will not start, I doubt the brake code is preventing it from starting. First, you need to make sure you are getting spark and fuel to the engine. Take a look through this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Keep this in mind. Just because the fuel pump is running does not mean it is producing enough pressure to run the engine. Here are specific links for checking spark and fuel:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Here are the specs for fuel pressure:

Fuel System Pressure
400 kpa ±34 kpa (58 psi ± 5 psi)

Let me know if any of this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Hi and welcome back:

Honestly, there is one pump. It is located in the fuel tank. As far as hearing it run, it may but be producing enough pressure or any at all.

I am not sure where you are located, but most parts stores will lend or rent you a fuel pressure gauge.

When you try to start it, do you get one click and then nothing? If so, make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Also, make sure the battery is good, You may want it load tested at a parts store to confirm.

Let me know.

Joe

Welcome back.

If you feel something is draining the battery, take a look through this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Let me know if it helps.

Joe

Welcome back.

Based on your last post, we need to check the starter to determine if it is bad or there is another issue. Follow this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Let me know what happens.

Joe

Hi and welcome back.

The lightening bolt indicates an issue with the throttle position components. It really needs to be scanned to determine where the problem is coming from.

Here is a quick video that shows how it is done:

https://youtu.be/b2IJGfImVvw

I realize most people don't own a scanner, but often times parts stores will lend or rent one to you. That is really needs done at this point. Otherwise, it becomes a guessing game.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Joe

The code, U1120 means the abs module has lost communication with speed sensors You need a live data scanner to determine if one of the abs sensors has failed or all. If the module is bad, it won't communicate with the scanner. However, I don't feel that is why it won't start.

Are you certain you are getting spark and fuel to the engine? The things you listed indicate a few different things. It indicates several of the modules in the vehicle have not yet completed a cycle to know if they are working. Most likely, it is the result of either having the battery disconnected or if the codes were erased with a scanner.

An easy way to check for fuel is using starting fluid. If the engine starts for a couple seconds using starting fluid, and then stalls, that would indicate there is spark to the plugs, but there is no fuel getting to the engine. It's quick and easy.

Okay,

I just read through every post. It did crank in one, but it was slow. Now, I watched the video and saw what is happening. Reconfirm that the starter relay is good. Switch it with a different relay in the power distribution box that has the same part number.

If that doesn't change anything, I need you to check the starter. In the first link you indicated it was good then mentioned it may be bad because you had problems prior. So, I'm a bit confused. Try the test in this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Now, you will need a helper to check that. Have the helper turn the key to the start position while you check for power to the smaller wire. If there is power, disconnect the battery and remove the starter and have it bench tested at a parts store. It most likely is bad.

Next, if there is no power to the smaller wire, we need to start at the power distribution box to see if power is available to the starter relay and then trace one way or the other to determine where power is being lost.

One last thought, make sure the ground between the battery and the engine block is in good condition as well as the power to the starter. However, since the starter was taking time to work or turning slower than it should prior to the problem, I feel that may be the problem.

Let me know what you find,.

Joe

Hi and welcome back.

From here, the only thing I suggest is checking the starter relay, ignition output fuse. Here are the directions:

______________________________________

STARTER RELAY

Warning: check to ensure that the transmission is in the park/neutral position with the parking brake applied. This may result in personal injury or death.

RELAY TEST
The starter relay is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) in the engine compartment. Refer to the PDC label for relay identification and location.

Remove the starter relay from the PDC as described to perform the following tests:

1. A relay in the de-energized position should have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and no continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If okay, go to Step 2. If not okay, replace the faulty relay.
2. Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (electromagnet) should be 75 ±5 ohms. If okay, go to Step 3. If not okay, replace the faulty relay.

3. Connect a battery B+ lead to terminals 85 and a ground lead to terminal 86 to energize the relay. The relay should click. Also test for continuity between terminals 30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A and 30. If okay, refer to Relay Circuit Test procedure. See: Starting System > Component Tests and General Diagnostics > Relay Circuit Test. If not okay, replace the faulty relay.

Let me know what you find.

Joe