Stalling motor, cuts out if electrical problem

When it dies and won't start is it a crank no start?Also do you have any code's?Have you checked for code's?

As far as the dying and not starting for a few min's I would be looking at the code P0335 crankshaft position sensor a bad crankshaft position sensor is the most likely cause of that. Do you have a multimeter to do some testing?Fixing the code po335 could fix the code P0300 and maybe another code.I would start with that code.I don't see a code you listed that has something to do with the tps sensor. When the tps circuit fails on that engine it doesn't usually cause the engine to die and not start. What it usually put's the car in reduced performance mode causing the car to drive really slow. Also other code's are set when there is a problem in the tps circuit.

At a 100,000 mile's you will need new plug's among other thing's. You will need a multimeter to test the crank sensor when it doesn't start. The crank sensor is located right next to the oil filter housing it's held in by a small reverse torx head bolt.

Yeah thats a ecm internal failure a bad ecm is the only thing that causes that code. Reset the code and see if it comes back if it does then replace the ecm.I would try ebay for a used ecm a bad ecm could cause stalling. So you have no other codes.

Check fuel pressure and spark when the problem occurs. Scan it for soft codes (those that don't cause the CEL to light).

Next time it refuses to start don't wait for it to make up its mind-do below immediately to determine if its fuel or spark problem

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if okay-check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, cap and rotor, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

Just to add to this one I have replaced a ton of crank shaft position sensor for that same reason on those cars. Check and see if you have any codes. Please post the exact code numbers if you have any. Also do you have a multimeter to test the crank shaft position sensor when it doesnt start?

When checking codes, pull both hard and soft codes.

Do you have any codes in the computer? Has the timing belt ever been changed?Does then engine run good and have plenty of power other then wanting to stall at idle?Is the check engine light on while its running?

The hard shifting is most likely a bad line pressure control solenoid very common on that car have replaced time on that car. As far as the other if it didn't have plenty of power you could have a plugged cat.

We need to see what codes you have in the computer? Also when it stalls does it restart right away or do you have to wait before it will restart?Those cars also had issues with crankshaft position sensors.

You could just have a bad crank shaft position sensor. Do you you have a multimeter that has ohm's reading's on it?