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Stalling motor, cuts out if electrical problem

Tiny
DPAWL31
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 SATURN L300
  • 89,000 MILES
I've been trying to fix this for weeks. My wife's car (L81 V6) has been stalling after it reaches it's normal PEAK temperature, when the cooling fan comes on.
It cuts out, and usually won't restart for 10+ minutes of sitting.
Sounds like no spark at all.
I've been told it's one of the following:
Dirty/clogged/bad EGR valve
Faulty Throttle Body
Dirty/clogged/bad IAC valve
Bad Crank Position Sensor

So far, I've ruled out the IAC, because I've been informed it uses the throttle plate to control idle air with the electronic throttle.
The EGR valve, going by ALL DIAGRAMS I have found online, does not exist! It sure as heck isn't where it shows it, right atop the passenger side of the motor, behind the throttle body, next to a big plastic cube with vaccuum lines in and out.
Either way, in my own head I am ruling out the throttle body and EGR - because of the way it CUTS out, and won't attempt to fire at all for a while after. It really feels electrical.

On to the CPS. My local mechanic said he read online 22 comments on stalling with this motor, and 21 of 22 were faulty CPS. Apparently they say the heat of the motor oil is causing it to go faulty at a certain temp. And that sounds like my issue. He told me to remove it AFTER it stalls out, quickly rinse with cold water, reinstall and attempt to restart. I don't really like that option, as it has restarted RIGHT after stalling before, and I don't think it will guarantee a solid answer.

How likely is this the CPS causing it? Is there anything I haven't mentioned that could be the culprit? I was originally thinking overheating going by the 'hottest temp and it stalls' theory. But I watched on my OBDII reader the temp, even at the stall point, peaked @ 204F.

Any input would be much appreciated!
Thanks, -Doug
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Monday, July 2nd, 2012 AT 9:56 PM

48 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,912 POSTS
The first things you listed will not cause stalling while driving. They will cause engine performance issues such as hesitation or rough idle, but not a failure to restart.

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

The crankshaft position sensor WILL do that and it is a very common problem on all car brands. There should be a stored diagnostic fault code in the Engine Computer. I'm surprised your mechanic didn't check for that. That's the first place to start. Many auto parts stores will read them for you for free.
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Monday, July 2nd, 2012 AT 10:03 PM
Tiny
DPAWL31
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  • 5 POSTS
I have a bluetooth OBDII reader, and I have received the following, sorry I did not add that in before!

P0727 Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
P0700 Transmission Control System (MIL Request)
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Monday, July 2nd, 2012 AT 10:51 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,912 POSTS
The P700 just means there is a code in the Transmission Computer and it is telling the Engine Computer to turn on the Check Engine light. To read that actual code you need a scanner that can access the Transmission Computer.

The other code suggests an intermittent crankshaft sensor. That is the signal that tells the Engine computer engine speed and when a piston is reaching top dead center. The same code could be in the Transmission Computer too because it needs to know engine speed, among other things, to calculate shift points
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Monday, July 2nd, 2012 AT 11:49 PM
Tiny
DPAWL31
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  • 5 POSTS
My friend is working on it now, while I am at work. They pulled the sensor and it had small metal fragments stuck to it.
He (knowing we have the new sensor in hand) cleaned it off, and lightly sanded the tip of the sensor. Reinstalled and drove around town. No issues. Idle seemed smoother, seemed like it had more power, and more EVEN power.

I suggested they let it sit in the driveway and run, till the cooling fan comes on at least twice. After the first fan coming on - it stalled out again.
They are swapping in the new sensor right now. Think it'll work?
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Monday, July 2nd, 2012 AT 11:57 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,912 POSTS
Fault codes never say to replace parts. They only indicate the circuit that needs further diagnosis. About 50 percent of the time the sensor in that circuit is the cause of the problem, however, given the consistent way yours fails, I'd say there's a 90 percent chance the sensor is the cause, a one percent chance it's the Engine Computer, and a 9 percent chance it's due to a corroded terminal in an electrical connector or a wire rubbed through and grounding out.
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Tuesday, July 3rd, 2012 AT 12:34 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Just to add to this one with a P0727 it is most likely a bad crank shaft sensor I replaced a ton of crank sensors on those with and without codes. They sometimes set transmission codes when they fail. If you had a scan tool that read live engine data when it stalled and didnt start your could have watched the engine rpms while cranking it if the rpms read 0 rpms bad crank shaft sensor. Thats only with the symptoms you have though.
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Tuesday, July 3rd, 2012 AT 5:05 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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A TON of 'em? :)
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Tuesday, July 3rd, 2012 AT 6:35 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
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Yes cardiodoc a ton/alot of them :-) also the P0727 is the transmission code that the P0700 transmission codes present code is refering too. So the scan tool was reading the transmission codes. It just didnt set a engine code for the crank shaft postion sensor.I dont like the remove the crank shaft position soak it water and see if it works ethier. You test if its bad when it doesnt start with a multimeter really simple. Also with a scan tool like I said earlier.I would find a new guy to fix my car with suggestions like that one that can use a multimeter and scan tool to diagnose problems.
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Tuesday, July 3rd, 2012 AT 4:09 PM
Tiny
DPAWL31
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
We cleaned off the old one (metal fragments) and lightly sanded the tip.
It started up and ran better, smoother idle better power. But it stalled again.

Dropped in the new one, I took it on a long grueling test drive last night, not one issue.

Thanks for the help guys. And yes, saturntech9 is right about the codes. Only TWICE upon stalling did I get codes, otherwise it was clear of codes, with at least 30-40 other stalls.

Now, can either of you tell my why the diagram of the EGR valve EVERYWHERE I look for this motor, says it's behind the throttle body right on top of the intake manifold? Because it's NOT THERE on my wifes car, or my friends. And I am not just 'missing it', it's legit not there. Thinking they moved it, or REMOVED it, for the final year of the motor? (05)
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+1
Tuesday, July 3rd, 2012 AT 7:34 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,912 POSTS
The best way to verify it's not a clinker in yer thinker is to look at the vacuum hose routing diagram under the hood. If any change was made after production, typically for an emissions recall, there would have been a new sticker applied over the old one. Either way, it will show it if it's there.
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Tuesday, July 3rd, 2012 AT 7:44 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Facing the front of the car it should be in left rear corner of engine.
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Tuesday, July 3rd, 2012 AT 8:00 PM
Tiny
DPAWL31
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  • 5 POSTS
Diagram of EGR location
http://awesomescreenshot.com/0f39eywa1

Attached image shows the schematic for emissions, it would be listed there right? It's not.
Other attached image shows my lack of EGR in that location, lol.
Friend's car, an 05, is also the same way. No EGR, at least right there.
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Tuesday, July 3rd, 2012 AT 8:24 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
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I see where it would have been there was a egr tube that came up from the back exhaust manifold that screwed onto the egr valve. It was deleted starting in the 2004 model year for the v6 model L300.
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Tuesday, July 3rd, 2012 AT 10:16 PM
Tiny
AHARRIS5
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2005 SATURN L300
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 104,489 MILES
I have a 2005 saturn l300 these are the live data reading when my car is idle. When I let it run for about 15 mins it will die and will not start again until it cools down. I have already changed the ignition coil / module ad my crankshaft position sensor. Here is the live data I got from my scanner do any of them look abnormal

Fuel sys 1 CL
fuel sys 2 CL
Calc Load 2.8
ECT 172
STFT B1 -3.9
LTFT B1 - 0.7
STFT B2 -3.9
LTFT B2 - 0.7
ENG RPM 645
Spar Adv 0
IAT 91
MAF (lb/min) 0.760
TPS 14.1
025 B1 S2 (v) 0.515
STFT B1 S2 N/A
025 B2 S2 (v) 0.475
STFT B2 S2 N/A
025 B1 S1 (ma) -128.000
EQ RATIO II .963
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,872 POSTS
Nothing that it really out of control. When it doesn't restart, have you checked to see if there is spark and fuel to the engine?
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AHARRIS5
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
How would I check to see if the car is getting a spark and I believe the car is getting fuel I just changed the fuel pump. How would I check if its getting fuel
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,872 POSTS
Visit our repair and service section at the top of the page and look under guides.
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HEATHERSSATURN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 SATURN L300
2005 Saturn L300 6 cyl Automatic 75,000 miles

My 05 Saturn L300 has been stalling now for about a month. 1st time was said to be due to battery and alternator. Both were replaced. Two weeks later, she stalled again, that time said to be feul injector, then replaced that. She was fine for a week, and then she stalls somemore, she stalls about twice a week, and wont start back up for a good half hour. This just financially sucks and is very stressful! Thank you for your time.
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
The first thing I want you to do is go to a auto part's store like auto zone and have them read your code's. You could have a bad crank shaft sensor.
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MATT B.
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2004 SATURN L300
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 96,000 MILES
I have a 2004 Saturn L300 it's a V6 and I'm finding that most every time I stop at a stoplight the car shuts down. I even find it shutting down while the car is in motion. It takes my car anywhere between 5 - 30 minutes to restart again. Any solutions?
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)

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