Turns over but will not run

I believe it will only fit together one way. Take a look through these directions for filter replacement. These start a 03/02 production.

_______________________________

2005 Mini Cooper S (R53) L4-1.6L SC (W11)
Removing and Installing/Replacing Fuel Filter Element (From Build Date 03/02)
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Fuel Filter Service and Repair Removal and Replacement Removing and Installing/Replacing Fuel Filter Element (From Build Date 03/02)
REMOVING AND INSTALLING/REPLACING FUEL FILTER ELEMENT (FROM BUILD DATE 03/02)
16 14 018 - Removing and installing/replacing fuel filter element (from build date 03/02)

Necessary preliminary tasks:
- Remove fuel filter with fuel level sensor

pic 1

Disconnect lines (1).

Pic 2

Release line from hooks (1) and (2).

Pic 3

Release retaining hook (1) and pull off sensor (2) in downward direction.

Installation:
Pay attention to fitting of spring (3).

Pic 4

Release cap (1) on fuel filter housing (2) by one turn counterclockwise (bayonet lock).
Pull off cap (1) towards top.

Pic 5

Pull off fuel filter (1) towards top. If necessary, twist fuel filter in so doing.
Clean inside of fuel filter housing (2).

Pic 6

Replace sealing ring (1).

Pic 7

Replace sealing rings (1).

_______________________________

Let me know if that is how it went together for you. Also, if you aren't getting anything to the engine, something has to be blocked or not attached. Otherwise, you would and should have at least low pressure.

Joe

I have to be honest. I suspect something came disconnected when you moved it. As a result, no fuel is making it to the fuel line. If you are getting the pump to turn on, it is pumping fuel, but nothing is making it into the fuel line, something must have come disconnected that you aren't seeing. That is the only thing that makes sense.

Are you able to fully remove it? Let me know if you need directions.

Joe

Happy to help. Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care and I'll watch for your reply.

Joe

As far as the o-rings, if you checked them, I'm sure they are fine. Was anything disconnected?

Joe

What has me stumped is the idea that even though there is that much coming out, it won't make its way through the supply line, which you confirmed is clear.

Hang in there. I'm going to ask another tech for his opinion. Lets see what he says.

Joe

Something was blocking it. Does it pump fuel through it now? If you leave that line disconnected at the rail and connect the pump, does fuel come through it? I'm wondering if something is in the rail causing a blockage.

Joe

Have you connected everything and left the fuel line disconnected at the rail to see if any fuel would come through? If nothing does, then it's not coming out of the filter. Ugh! I wish I was there to help. It makes it difficult when I'm not. Sorry about that. The idea that there is fuel movement at the filter but nothing comes out of the rail makes no sense. Since you mentioned there is fuel coming out of the filter at the tank, it should come out of the fuel line at the rail (if the rail is disconnected). Please explain if I'm not clear. LOL

By the way, I hope you are well. The virus issues are getting really close to home.

Joe

Okay, you have fuel coming out of the pump connection correct? Then with the line connected at the pump and filter end you get no fuel out of that same line near the fuel rail? That says there has to be a blockage in the system someplace. A quick cheat to see if it's blocked is to use an air line to blow from the engine end of the line back to the pump connection. The line has a few bends and it is possible that something is sticking in one of the bends where the line is narrowed. Another method that works is to use string trimmer line and run it through the line, also from the engine end of the line. I have seen some odd things block a line, from pieces of fuel filter to parts of failed pumps. They will shift when the pressure hits them and act like a one way valve.
I see it runs okay on spray and that you have replaced the pump a few times, so it shouldn't be anything other than fuel delivery related. If it was in my shop I would likely try blowing out all of the lines or snaking them to see if there is something in there.

You might also try powering the pump directly using a couple jumper wires to the battery. Should be a White wire with a blue trace for battery positive and a Brown wire for ground. It is possible that there is an issue in the power feed where you are getting enough power to spin the pump, but not enough current flow to create full pressure. Corroded connections or wire damage or even something like a bad relay contact could cause that. If you just power the pump directly and suddenly have full pressure then it could be that. Just another possible problem.
As Joe says, we can work through this, just difficult when it's not in front of you.

The answer to the pump question is, maybe. Most pumps require a couple things to operate. One is a prime signal when the key is first turned on or the engine is cranking. That depends on the make and model, some prime for a couple seconds then stop, others don't prime until the ECM, DME, PCM sees a signal that the engine is cranking.
The other is usually tied to oil pressure IE the pump will shut off if the ECM, DME, PCM detects low oil pressure or the oil pressure switch opens and stops power to the pump. The idea there is to stop the pump if the vehicle turns over or in some way loses oil pressure, it tries to protect the engine.
In the case of your Mini, it uses a relay that is controlled by the DME to turn the pump on and off. Now this sort of makes it easier as there is no second power system. If the pump turns on and primes, the relay and power to it works. The issue then becomes one of the DME control. That is why I suggested the power bypass, if the pump powers up and pumps fine with direct power and has proper pressure and flow it's working. Then the issue is on the control side. A bad relay or wiring, or even an intermittent fuse.

You say you are hearing the prime cycle in the above question. That is good as it confirms that it has power and that the DME signal to control it is working and the relay is OK. However if the engine isn't starting the pump will usually shut off.

What usually happens in the start-up cycle is, You turn on the key, the power to the pump switches on to prime the system, this pressurizes the fuel system to compensate for any pressure it lost while it sat not running. Now you turn the key to start, this usually stops the priming cycle and the DME or oil pressure switch sees oil pressure along with the crank signal and decides it is safe to turn the fuel back on and the engine starts. It then monitors the oil pressure and key position, loss of oil pressure or turning the key off will stop the pump.

You say the engine would start on spray, here is a test you might try. Connect the fuel lines up, leave the connection to the rail off, instead put a hose on it so you can put it into a bucket or gas can. Now, turn the key on, wait a couple seconds for the prime. Repeat this about 4 times. You should have gas coming out of the hose. If not then apply power to the pump, the easiest way to do that is to use a jumper in the relay socket. The image below should be what the connector looks like when the fuel pump relay is removed. Out of them all only 4 are actually used. In your car if you were to put a wire jumper between pins 30 and 87 the pump should stay on full time. If you get fuel out of the line now, in a steady stream, you can turn it off. If you don't get fuel out of the line, you have a blockage or something id damaged.

The issue with using a meter is that it only shows voltage, it cannot tell you if there is enough amperage to spin the pump correctly. One of the risks using a VOM to test. This is because you could have a single strand of wire the size of sewing thread and measure full battery voltage the same as if it was a full size battery cable. However that single strand isn't going to make the pump run at full power.