Limp Home Mode, no codes?

There was a blue plug on the top/front that was not in the whole way, I plugged it in but I have no way of knowing if it worked or not until I hit a bump again, the check engine light is still on though

Hi,
I went out this morning and the car wont start, just two small click from the starter motor, Do I need a new starter or is this a battery issue?

I really appreciate the help as the last info you gave me worked a treat!

Thanks,

Cormac

So I was driving my car the other day, accelerating onto the highway walking the RPMS up, and all of a sudden my car is starving. It begins to flutter, Battery light comes on, Key light comes on, and I can't do much more than coast to a safe spot off the highway. Its as if my car was starving to breath. I pulled over, turned ff the car and checked to see if my Hood support stick hit my battery terminal and shoprted the system. I inspected all my connections, nothing was out of place and started the car up again. This time, the battery light went off, The Check engine light came on, I had no Power to the Tachometer, no power to the Engine Temp gauge and my car was idling in limp mode. I couldn't rev it past 3,000 rpms. I know this because I heard the bearing spin and makes a slight noise when it hits 3,000 RPM.

I was stumped. I drove the car home in side streets in limp mode, moving slower than a turtle.
I called up my buddy with a scan tool and We scanned the car and its said "NO LINK".
This was funny. So I decided to take the Car to Auto zone, I drove there in limp mode, slowly. While driving on the highway I shut off the car, turned it off, back on, popped the clutch in gear and started the car, Intermittently the car would be ok, check enigine light will flash for a sec, the car would bog, then go back to normal, do this about 5-6 times and then finally stay in limp mode. During this time the Tach and Engine temp are working fine.
I also performed a Instrument Cluster check and all my gauges swept across indicating a perfect cluster.

SO when I got to AutoZone we scanned this again and the code reader said "Check connections"

Thinking it was a computer issue I replaced the PCM, THE Multiplex Control Unit, even the Ignition control switch, and nothing has fixed it.

I am completely lost on where to diagnose this problem next. Where do I go from here?

Ditto Check, Nothing is going on.

Hi, I got the battery checked and it was flat but had enough power for lights etc, but the problem still persists, I have knocked the starter with a hammer with no joy, checked all the fuses and cleaned the battery terminals.
Would you know the next course of action I should take?
Thanks,

Cormac

Checked. There is voltage to the terminal, and there is Continuity.

I did bring it to an auto place to have it checked and they told me it was flat so I got a new one.

I recently did a timing belt and water pump on my civic. About a week after I did it I was driving and all of a sudden the engine jerked and it went into limp home mode. I rechecked timing and everything is all good, but now I can't communicate with the vehicle using a scantool to figure out what is goin on. All of the connectors for the cam sensor and crank sensor are good. What the heck is going on?

Just to confirm, the #8 Terminal, what color wire is it?

Ok I used a wire to connect #4 to #8 and there was no action on the CEL.

Ok, got the code. P0335 Crank Position sensor cicuit malfunction. I thought it might be this code, so last night I inspected the plug connector going to the sensor and it looked ok. I really didn't look to closely though, there may be pins corroded or bent but it pluggd in nice and easy so I didn't think much about it. I mainly checked to see that the wiring hadn't come loose and into contact with the crank pulley and casued a short, but that didn't happen. Could it be the crank sensor, they aren't to complicated, just a simple hall effect. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, the timing had jumped one tooth somehow. Could this have damaged the sensor somehow when it did jump?