headlights not working, they go on and off?

Hello,

These cars have a lighting module that goes out here is the location so you can check it out. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.

Yep the lighting module fixed mine I got a used one for $45.00 all set! I love this site

the front lights stopped working after 2 months after the recall (bypass) .... Could the LCM Relay be wrong or what does the bypass remove the relay?

When they did the recall did they replace the LCM? If not, it looks like the repair did not correct the concern. So it is rare but there are times when the dealer does not do the recall correctly. Maybe they put a new tech on it and they didn't understand something but it is pretty clear that this is a known issue.

I would take it back to the dealer that did the repair however, below you will find the wiring diagram of your lighting system if you want to test the power coming out of the LCM.

Here is a guide that will help with this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

I would test the wire coming out of the LCM going to the switch to see if there is power. If not then the LCM is the issue.

Let us know what questions you have. Thanks

My running beams stay on and i can manually hold my brights on but my brights are shinning my reg. beams... then while driving my lights started working but when i parked my lights stopped working and so did my car locks.. any ideas its an 04 ford crown victoria

The Light Control Module for this model has a high rate of failure and some geniuses have come up with a solution for this by bypassing the it.

Using a 4 pin relay connect as follows at the LCM (light control module).

Tee in orange/white wire at lcm (bat +) to pin 30 & pin 85 of relay.
Tee in red/yellow wire at lcm (headlamp input) to pin 86 of relay.
Cut gray wire at lcm (power feed to multi-function switch) cover gray wire from lcm with tape - connect gray wire from multi-function switch to pin 87 of relay.

Test the operation.

suddenly all headlights, turn signals, tail gate lights and hazard (emergency) flashers stopped working, only break lights working fine. All fuses are fine. Any suggestions what could be the problem.

Possible Lighting Control Module at fault all that is effected are control by module.

I thought it maybe LCM thanks for the info.

while driving last nite the headlamps only(parking,tail, dash, all others stayed on) went out. had the system on autolamp, but when switched to manual still stayed off. after bout 3 minutes the headlamps came back on for maybe 3 minutes, then off again. went thru several cycles of this, before i gave up and called tow truck. could pull the flass-to-pass back on the dimmer and bright lights would stay on long as holding dimmer switch in flash to pass position. where should i begin to solve this problem. thanks, jeff

I also own a 2003 Crown Vic. Mine is a Police Interceptor with around 103K on it. I took it in to my local mechanic and we figured its one of two things. The first thing might be that the LCM (lighting control module) is going bad. With the LCMs there are different ones for certain years so if you are going to replace it, find out what the part number is on your module first and try to find a used one. From what I saw, prices range from about 80 bucks to 500 for used. To locate your LCM, look up under the dash near the steering column. Its not hard to find.

A new LCM will run you around 400-500 bucks. Be wary of used LCMs though because they might have the same fault. The second option which your problem might is the multi-function switch in the steering column. The MFS controls your low beams, high beams, flash to pass, turn signals and hazard lights. I am not sure what they run in price but its safe to say that you may spend about the same for this as for an LCM. Probably will be less though because the LCM is a series of computer boards with numerous curcuits and so forth. I have yet to fix my lights, but these are two fix options that every mechanic I have talked to agrees on.

There is a minor but third possibility as well. If you own a former police car like me, check to make sure that the headlight flasher is not installed still. If it is still there than that will be what is causing it. To check for this, look near your radiator cross beam under the hood or above the front right wheel well. Those are the two most popular mounting locations for flashers.

ZPOL, update for you. After doing a lot of research, I found out what was wrong with my LCM, the relay they used for the headlamps is a little piece if CRAP. I ordered a new one online for $3.38, took out the old one, shouldered in the new one, and PRESTO, headlamps work fine! Hopefully this will fix the issue for a few years. There is also a wire harness upgrade you can do to it. Basically, you use a 30 amp horn relay, attach 10-12 guage wire, and then you have a premanent fix. Dealer wanted 450 for a new LCM, and 150 for the job. I paid $3.38 for the relay, and a few bucks on some solder. Mouser Part
number 551-EQ1-11111S MFR Part number EQ1-11111S
No minimum order, free ground shipping.
I hope this helps others in the future to save $$$
-Jason

that sounds a lot cheaper, but a more time consuming repair. The LCM I replaced my old one with was an aftermarket LCM which Ford bought to replace the stock LCMs since the relays in the stock mods were not guaranteed to not fail.

Thanks a lot to jferrisrx for his msg. We were able to fix our LCM for $20 and in less than an hour because of his post and links provided.
Just a heads up to anyone trying to do this, Mouser.com was back ordered up to 16 wks for this component. A little research led us to wellgainelectronics.com where they had part
#NEC MR301-HSL which they said was a better replacement for NEC EQ1-11111S. Plus it was in stock and got to us in 3 days.
Thanks again for a great post jferrisrx!

Thanks for all the posts on this issue. Just a heads up I noticed when I took the LCM apart under the board where the headlight relay is located it had some bad solder joints. They were very minor and I decided to just clean the contacts and solder joints with a q-tip and some rubbing alcohol then resolder the bad joints. I test drove afterwards and the lights stayed on thank God as they have not worked in about a year. I hope this helps someone else if you're looking for an easy fix.

To Jferrisrx and all:

the LCM fixed my car thank you.

problem at night by the headlights shut off by themselves and do not turn back on until I pull the turn signal knob back and have to hold the bights on until I hear a click under the dash and then when they come back on for only about 2 to 3 minutes they shut off and again and I have to repeat the process. Again and Again. Please HELP!!!!!



Michael Manning

check/replace the lighting control mdule.. Lighting Control Module.....Behind center of dash. See Fig. 4.

it was the LCM on my car lights work again.

Ok!! This Is My Problem!! I Have No! Headlights Or Instrument Cluster Lights! But I Do Have High Beams,signal lights,brake Lights and Instrument Warning Lights!!! I Have Checked All Fuses Inside And They Are Fine!!! Checked Fuses In Distrbution Box They Are Fine Too!!! Can Somebody Tell Me What I Missed?? Is There A Relay Or Hidden Fuse I Don't Know About?? P.S. Also Changed Switch Still No! HeadLights!!!!

I found the problem, it was the lighting module. Thanks TommyLimo

Glad to hear you found the problem!
We hope you will use our site again in the future when needed. Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

headlights dont work and so does flash to pass. Put a new multi switch in did not do the trick. Also no park lights.

We need to start with checking voltage at the multi-function switch. I assume you will not have voltage on the lighting circuits from the Lighting Control Module (LCM) to the multi-function switch. If this is the case, then you most likely have an issue with the LCM.

Unfortunately the only way to know is to measure the voltage on each circuit. You were correct to go after the switch but unfortunately the LCM controls the power for each of these circuits so I suspect that is the issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Thank you I will test ASAP. Is there any chance it is headlight switch?

It is unlikely that this is the issue. That switch just powers the headlamps and it doesn't have an effect on anything else that you are seeing. The LCM is the most likely cause assuming all this is caused by the same thing. We could have a series of different things but if this all happened at the same time it is unlikely.

Thank you.

where is the lighting control module located?

Hello, I'm Danny.

The lighting module is located under the dashboard directly to the right of the steering column. I've attached 2 pictures below of its location. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

i am not sure if it the high or low that don't work but one them turn on and when trying to switch to high or low it wont turn on.

Welcome to 2CarPros.

Since there is only one 40 amp fuse for the headlights, it must be good. Now, are you certain the bulbs are not bad? Also, there are a total of 4 bulbs. It is very possible that you didn't realize one was already bad when the second one burned out.

Turn the lights on and see if the high beam indicator in the vehicle is on when the lights are working. If it is, then that is the high beam. If it isn't.. turn the lights off and pull back on the lever to actuate the flash to pass lights. Do they work?

Other than this, you will need to remove the bulbs and check for power to the light sockets on the affected sockets. You can do it with a test light.

Here are a couple links to help if you do it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Let me know.

Joe

My high beam light indicator don’t turn on in the car Joe. So now I’m confused on what else it might be. The fuse is fine etc. I was thinking if it’s the lCM because the horn cruse control and light don’t work and YouTube says the lCM control all this. Now the big problem is ford told me they stop making them and that my car don’t have a lCM. help

Welcome back:

No, it does have an ICM but it has nothing to do with the headlights. The ICM (Ignition Control Module) is responsible for spark timing to the engine and has nothing to do with the headlights. If you told me the engine wouldn't start, then the ICM would have been a consideration. Also, if you really needed one, I feel confident that you could get a new aftermarket one at a parts store. Ford may not offer it any more due to age, but they are still around.

That leaves me questioning the headlight switch or the high beam switch. If you are certain the fuses are good and they have power, and the bulbs are good, we need to do some checking. I need to know if you have automatic control headlamps with daytime running lights or not. The schematics are very different, so before I start paging through them, I want to be sure.

Let me know.

Joe

I have the delay lamp switch that even in day it stays on and I could shut them off and pull the lever to turn on and off. Just the high beams indicator or light work.

Thank you. With the lights off, if you pull back on the high beam switch and hold it, do the lights turn on?

Joe

No sir it’s pulled back and lights stay on but when put down it don’t work. so I think it’s the low beam.

Welcome back:

Are you sure the bulbs aren't bad? If you know they are good, then we need to check for power to the sockets.

Let me know.

Joe

headlights flicker off and on

Most common cause is burned contacts on the head light switch or the dimmer switch. Pull one out and check the connector body for signs of melting and the terminals to see if two are blackened. If they are, they can be cut out of the connector and be replaced individually. Replace the switch too. If no signs of overheating are evident, remove the other switch connector and check it.

Head light switches also have thermal circuit breakers built in. Those cause more problems than they prevent. The contacts can become pitted. That causes heat buildup which causes the breaker to trip, then it resets a few seconds later after it cools down.

I’m for sure.