Ignition lock

Tiny
WARREN G
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 OLDSMOBILE ALERO
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 156,785 MILES
How do I replace Ignition Lock (Cylinder) on 2004 olds alero?
Friday, July 8th, 2011 AT 8:24 PM

26 Replies

Tiny
PROTECH1980
  • MEMBER
  • 901 POSTS
If the current key turns in the lock cylinder, turn to run position and depress locking button at end of lock cylinder using a pick type tool, once depressed, ignition lock cylinder will slide out, to gain access to the locking button at the end of lock cylinder you will have to remove radio and hvac control head, this will give you a good view of the ignition switch which houses the lock cylinder, after you install the new one, a security relearn procedure must be done. Now if the current key does not turn, the cylinder may have to be drilled out, you may want to have this procedure done by a professional tech.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Sunday, July 10th, 2011 AT 1:18 AM
Tiny
MSBOSS2010
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 OLDSMOBILE ALERO
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 168,800 MILES
I just want to know how often does a car need to have the ignition replaced? I have had my car since 2003 and I believe I've had it replaced. At least 3 times, I'm going to go check my records, but I know it was at least 3 times. Each time this happens, the security light comes on maybe a few weeks or a month early while i'm driving. Then one day, it just wont start. This has been an ongoing problem with this Alero since I've had it. Also, how would you check this? Is this something that does not get checked unless you ask for it?

Thanx, Lina
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Lina:
The security light indicates a problem in the system. Was it the switch each time because that is really odd?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LALY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 OLDSMOBILE ALERO
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 91,000 MILES
I messed up the ignition lock I had someone looked at it and he said I needed a new ignition lock he install a new one and my engine wont start, the car turns on is just the engine wont start I ask him what happen and he said is probably a mechanical problem. The car had no problems starting before. Is it really a mechanical problem or the igniton lock. By the way the ignition lock is a new one but a chevy lock he said it didnt matter because he was gonna program it to the house of the one thats there.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Mmm dont know about that, sounds a little shady, I would first have someone verify if there is fuel and spark. I will send you the info to show you how. If this has an alarm /immobilizer then that new lock may be a problem, and you say your gettin absolutely no sound when trying to start?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_test_an_ignition_system.htm
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RAINDOG2
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2000 OLDSMOBILE ALERO
  • 145,000 MILES
We have recently bee having a very serious problem. The Alero will suddenly quit running. Before you could wait 5 minutes or so and it would restart. Happened about 3 times like this. The 4th and 5th time it was different. The last time on Tuesday we were on a major highway. Trunk full of 264 cans of dog food. In the back two big sheepdogs. And beside me one freaked out wife. Doing 100 kilometers per hour in the middle lane during rush hour the engine quit. I managed to coast off the side with barely enough room for the car as the snow banks too much of the space. Sat a bit and started it up again. Stayed to the right but 200 yards later it quit again. Running out of room just before an exit. Finally got moving again 200 more yards and it again quit. No room to get out without getting killed as I am the driver but have to use a wheelchair and getting out on the side of the highway is a no go as there's 6 inches to spare beside the right lane.
We have maintained this car, also on Monday replaced the ignition switch. Checked the fuel pump, which has never been replaced but mechanic says its still good. Also replaced the crank sensor.
My family has been put in danger because everything we fis is supposed to fix the problem. Any ideas would be much appreciated. Before I scrap a perfectly useable car except for this problem.
Olds Alero, two door Auto, 2.4l engine. 145,000 kilometers (110,000 miles appro.).
Thank you
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Symptoms indicates a likely electrical fault but is not going to be easy to diagnose as it restarts within a short time which makes it almost impossible to loated the cause before it restarts.

There are 2 different symptoms which might help to localise the problem but they might be too insignificant if you were not paying any attantion.

Did the engine cut off immediately or was there any notion of a slight slurge as if the the engine is starving of fuel?

Immediate cutting off would mean electrical controls whilst the other would be a fuel supply problem.

A failing fuel pump would test good but can stop intermittently and start working again.

Were you able to get any trouble codes?

I checked through the TSB and found one that might be worth a look. It states that the intank fuel strainer could be clogged and a new strainer kit is available.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RAINDOG2
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thanks for the reply. There was no indication of a chocking of gas supply and the car just suddenly lost all electrical power. Giving it gas did nothing. All I could do was quickly coast out of the way. My wife just left to go pick up the car from the shop now. I will mention the strainer to the mechanic. Although if it was the strainer it shouldn't lose all power. The codes you mentioned would show an electrical fault and could they pinpoint where in the system it could be.
Thanks for your help.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
When the strainer gets clogged, fuel would be prevented from getting to the engine and this would result in stalling which would result in no response from the throttle.

Intermittent faults are never easy to detect and if there are trouble codes, which would show on a scan tool, it would help to localise the problem.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RAINDOG2
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Sorry none of these helped. Scrapped the car before it would get us killed. Other than this problem car was in great shape. Shame. Lots of new and good parts for my mechanic to make a few bucks from.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BUCKTHEMECHANIC
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2000 OLDSMOBILE ALERO
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
Do I need a special tool to replace ignition switch on a 2000 oldsmoblie alero
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
It depends on exactly what you are doing. When replacing the ignition lock, they are shipped with no key coding and have to be assembled a d key coded.

IGNITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT

Important: You must perform the BCM theft deterrent relearn procedure after replacement of the ignition switch Lock Cylinder. Accessories and Optional Equipment/Antitheft and Alarm Systems/Service and Repair/ See: Accessories and Optional Equipment Antitheft and Alarm Systems Service and Repair

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove the radio.
3. Remove the instrument panel cluster.
4. Remove the bolts from ignition switch

5. Reposition the ignition switch from the instrument panel for ease of removal.
6. Remove the bolts from the ignition switch to the bracket.

7. Remove the bracket from the ignition switch.

8. Insert the key and turn the ignition switch lock cylinder to the "ON" position.

IMPORTANT: Ignition switch lock cylinder that won't rotate or is seized.

9. Follow the steps below 9.1 through 9.8 if ignition switch lock cylinder is seized or won't rotate.

9.1. Protect the immediate work area with suitable material such as clean shop towels or a clean fender cover.
9.2. Locate the surface for the ignition switch lock cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8 inch reward (toward the key entry end) from the cylinder release button.
9.3. Carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing with a 1/8 inch drill bit.
9.4. Carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the ignition switch lock cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring using a 9/32 inch drill bit.
9.5. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small suitable tool.
9.6. Grasp the ignition switch lock cylinder and remove it from the switch housing.
9.7. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operation, and using compressed air blow out the ignition switch assembly.
9.8. Follow service manual procedures when cylinder recoding is required. Refer to Key and Lack Cylinder Coding.

10. Depress the transaxle park/lock cable retainer to release, then pull to remove the park/lock cable from the ignition switch.

11. Remove the ignition switch lock cylinder from the ignition switch, by depressing the retaining tab and pulling the cylinder out with the key.

IMPORTANT: The pass lock electrical connector can not be removed until the ignition switch lock cylinder is removed.

12. Disconnect the pass lock electrical connector from the ignition switch.

13. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the ignition switch.

14. Remove the ignition switch through the IP cluster opening.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

1. Position the ignition switch into position through the IP cluster opening.
2. Connect the electrical connectors to the ignition switch.

3. Connect the pass lock electrical connector from the ignition switch.

4. Connect the park/lock cable to the ignition switch.

5. Position the ignition switch bracket to the ignition switch.

NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

6. Install the bolts to the ignition switch bracket.

Tighten
Tighten the ignition switch bracket bolts to6 Nm (53 lb in).

7. Insert the key and turn the ignition switch lock cylinder to the "ON" position.
8. Align and press ignition switch lock cylinder into place.

IMPORTANT: Ignition switch lock cylinder that previously would not rotate or was seized.

9. Follow steps 9.1 through 9.3 below it ignition switch lock cylinder previously removed was seized or would not rotate.

9.1. Install the new ignition switch lock cylinder as required by rotating both the cylinder and the ignition switch to the "ON" position.
9.2. Push the ignition switch lock cylinder into the ignition switch housing until fully seated.
9.3. It may be necessary to slightly depress the release button as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the ignition switch housing.

10. Remove the key from the ignition switch lock cylinder.

11. Position the ignition switch to the instrument panel.
12. Install the bolts to the ignition switch.

Tighten
Tighten the ignition switch bolts to 6 Nm (53 lb in).

13. Install the instrument panel cluster.
14. Connect negative battery cable.

Important: You must perform the BCM theft deterrent relearn procedure after replacement of the ignition switch Lock Cylinder.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
A good call where safety is concerned. Would never have peace of mind whenever driving the vehicle under such situations.

Have a great day.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TRANSAM84RED
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 OLDSMOBILE ALERO
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 97,000 MILES
What is the easy way to get to the switch to change it out can I get to by taken the radio out or do I have to remove the dash?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,542 POSTS
Hello,

Here are the diagrams to help you change out the ignition key tumbler. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KENSHINZERO
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 OLDSMOBILE ALERO
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 81,000 MILES
Im haveing some problem removeing the ignition switch on my Alero, I mamaged to remove the 2 screws behind it, but it dosent seem to want to budg, I felt arround but have foound no clips holding it.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,542 POSTS
Below are replacement procedures for your vehicle's ignition switch.

REMOVAL:
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the instrument panel (I/P) accessory trim plate.
Remove the I/P cluster.
Remove the bolts from ignition switch.
Reposition the ignition switch for ease of removal.
Insert the key and turn the ignition lock cylinder to the ON/RUN position.
Depress the transaxle park/lock cable retainer to release, then pull to remove the park/lock cable from the ignition switch.
Perform the following procedure to remove the ignition lock cylinder from the ignition switch:
Depress and hold the ignition lock cylinder detent.
Turn the key to the ON/RUN position.
Pull the ignition lock cylinder out with the key.
NOTE
Remove the ignition lock cylinder before you remove the Passlock- electrical connector.

Disconnect the Passlock- electrical connector from the ignition switch.
Disconnect the electrical connectors from the ignition switch.
Remove the ignition switch through the I/P cluster opening.
If the lock cylinder does not rotate or is seized, perform the following procedure:
Protect the immediate work area with suitable material such as clean shop towels or a clean fender cover.
Locate the surface for the ignition switch lock cylinder release button (2) on the plastic ignition switch housing and center punch a location (1) on the rib 9.5 mm (3/8 in) rearward, toward the key entry end, from the cylinder release button.
Carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing with an 1/8-inch drill bit.
Carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the ignition switch lock cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring using a 9/32-inch drill bit.
Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small suitable tool.
Grasp the ignition switch lock cylinder and remove the cylinder from the switch housing.
Remove any plastic flashing from the drilling operation, and using compressed air blow out the ignition switch assembly.
Follow the service procedures when cylinder coding is required.

INSTALLATION:
If the lock cylinder would not rotate or was seized, perform the following procedure:
Install the new ignition switch lock cylinder as required by rotating both the cylinder and the ignition switch to the ON position.
Push the lock cylinder into the ignition switch housing until fully seated.
You may need to slightly depress the release button as the cylinder passes by the 9/32-inch hole previously drilled in the ignition switch housing.

Position the ignition switch into position through the I/P cluster opening.
Connect the electrical connectors to the ignition switch.
Connect the Passlock- electrical connector to the ignition switch.
Connect the park/lock cable to the ignition switch.
Insert the key and turn the ignition lock cylinder to the ON/RUN position.
Install the ignition lock cylinder. If you turned the key slightly while removing the lock cylinder, you may have to align the white colored ignition switch rotor (1) with the lock cylinder (2). You can rotate the ignition switch rotor (1) with your finger.
Remove the key from the lock cylinder.
Position the ignition switch to the I/P.
Install the bolts to the ignition switch. Tighten the bolts to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm).
Install the I/P cluster.
Install the I/P accessory trim plate.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Perform the Passlock- learn procedure:
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds.
The vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock- Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.
NOTE
The vehicle learns the Passlock- Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.

Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Passlock- Sensor Data Code and/or password.
With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if needed. History DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles.

Thanks for using 2CarPros. Com!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NANNAHG10
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 OLDSMOBILE ALERO
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 60,000 MILES
MY CAR IGNITION WILL NOT TURN, THE KEY DOES NOT WORK.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:10 PM (Merged)

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links