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Engine has low power?

Tiny
CLEE58
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2002 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 140,000 MILES
Our car has been slowing down for a couple of weeks. It strained in each gear and could barely get up to speed and had trouble going uphill. We have new sparkplugs and airfilter and I put in fuel injector cleaner. Our gear lubricant was changed in december. Now th car won't move at all. Any ideas?
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi clee58,

If the engines races with gears engaged and the car won't move, the clutch is worn out. You need to replace the ckutch assy.
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Thank you.

I still think you need to check the back pressure. You could disconnect the pipe from the exhaust manifold and drive it and see if you have good power. That would also test to see if the engine cannot breathe.

Roy
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TZIGGS
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Possibly a catalytic converter. If it kind of feels like something is shoved up the exhaust pipe and you are getting no power, you might want to check the catalytic converter.
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GREG ESTEN
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thank you.
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KIMANDGAYLE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
  • 2002 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 113,000 MILES
My car dies as if someone turned the key off then back on again. Problem occurs at idle, highway speed, but does not usually die completely. Not a slow die or lack of power, just off then back on. Sometime one can drive 30 miles without a problem, then suddenly starts bucking (as it dies, then back on) with a steady pedal or on cruise control. Coils are on the plugs, fuel injected, any other questions, feel free to email. Hope you can help.
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVIN12881
  • MEMBER
  • 336 POSTS
If you are up on routine maintenance, it could be the fuel pump relay. Does it act like it is starving for gas? When the relay gets hot it stays open/closed.I forget
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KIMANDGAYLE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Gas pressure seems good, if it were the fuel, I do not think it would suddenly die, keep running, run for 30 or so miles without a problem, but I will try anything. Where is the relay?
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Hello,

One question for now.

Is your check engine light on? If so go by your local auto zone or similar and have them pull codes for you they will do it for free.

Post codes here in forum.

.
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KIMANDGAYLE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
No codes, no check engine light on.
Hello,

One question for now.

Is your check engine light on? If so go by your local auto zone or similar and have them pull codes for you they will do it for free.

Post codes here in forum.

.[/Quote:f24644f759]
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
The fuel pump relay is located behind the driver kick panel. I don't believe the relay is going to be the problem. My experience is that in most cases when the relay is going bad, when it get hot it will open the circuit cutting off power and will not work properly till it cools down most of the time about 5 min.

Not to doubt you, but did you try having the codes pulled. Cause it sounds like to me that it is possibly a sensor or eletrical problem.

It could be the fuel pump but never in my 20+ year have I every had a fuel pump cause the symptom you have.

.
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KIMANDGAYLE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
I have access to a scanner and have had it on there. No codes are present. I was told a possible crank or camshaft sensor. Do you know how to check them? I am leaning toward one of these being my problem, but I am just drawing straws.
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVIN12881
  • MEMBER
  • 336 POSTS
Obxautomedicis right, the relay would take some time to cool. When mine went out is was to the clock- 45 minutes of driving, die, wait ten to drive ten. But I had no check engine light, and with an idle control sensor, cam sensor, crank sensor, or any other---you should have a light. But cars never listen the the word should. It may be a wire, or connection somewhere that is messing up. S there any more to the patterns you described? Does it act worse on bumpy roads, cold days, r something?
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KIMANDGAYLE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Not any worse on bumpy roads, cold days. Very puzzling to me. I worked in a auto repair shop for 13 years, (still do electrical and mechanic work, but industrial) this has got me baffled. It has gotten consistently worse, starts fine, runs good and bad, just drops off like before, no consistency to the problem, except that it has me pulling out what little hair I have left.
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVIN12881
  • MEMBER
  • 336 POSTS
A haynes manual will tell you how to check the camshft sensor, I can tell you what mine says if you want but it may differ to your car. The crankshaft sensor has to be checked by the dealer, again this is going of gm cars and not nissan
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Ok, lets go at this from the fuel system side since it usually doesn't produce DTC's.

You said the fuel pressure seemed ok. Are you able to check the fuel pressure.

Pressure on NON California 1.8L cars is.

At Idle with out vacuum should be 43 psi

At Idle with vacuum should be 34 psi

California Cars 1.8L and 2.5L

At Idle with Vacuum should be 51 psi

at Idle with out vacuum = No manufacture Info available.

Post findings

.
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Friday, August 28th, 2020 AT 9:39 AM (Merged)

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