Hello, first, just to specify, my truck is a 6.0L extended cab long bed truck.
Now, this is what I changed before the problem started. Recently, I found that some wires in my truck were being smashed and, in turn, shorted against the firewall by the interior e-brake pedal arm. So, I disconnected the battery to solder the 3 wires back together. I clipped the corroded/broken parts off before soldering, then I heatshrinked them and wrapped them with foam and duct tape. The three wires are purple, orange, and yellow. The yellow one is either 18 or 22 gauge, while the others are around 14 gauge. They go into a connector on the fuse panel under the dashboard which is labeled as "12-way body" in the manual. I reconnected the battery and started the truck, no probs.
Now to the problem. The next day, driving to work, the truck died at my first stop (no check lights). After that I started paying attention to the tach and voltmeter. Only at stops, the tach drops from 750 rpm to about 600, then bounces between 250 and 600. No weird noises, besides the fact that the engine sounds like its dieing. Watching the voltmeter, it drops from just above 14 (normal) to about 10-12v. So far, since this started, my truck has only died 2 times. So, most of the time the engine recovers and goes back to normal idle. I figured out this morning that the lulling/shuddering/low rpms/trying to die is most easily replicated by shifting gears. Every move of the shifter causes temporary lulling/shuddering/low rpms then it goes back to normal idle. The symptoms last for 5-10 seconds after the tranny is done shifting. Still not one check light. Also, this is ONLY during braking/stop.
Right now, I’m just trying to find out the problem maker. I’d like to narrow it down as far as possible by spending the least amount of money because it’s going to be for sale real soon and I have no idea where to start. Please help! Thanks!
Drew
Tuesday, December 31st, 2019 AT 12:40 PM
(Merged)