Car won't start

Have tried a jump? What is BATT open voltage? BATT more than 3 uyrs. Old?

Remove and clean BATT terminals use baking soda and little water side post hard to see corrision also when jumping hook POS to BATT POS BUT NEG to block

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Have you checked for spark and fuel to the engine?

If you have proper fuel pump pressure and the spark plugs have good spark, it should run. Try something for me. See if the engine will start using starting fluid. Let me know what you find.

It could be the starter solenoid. There won't be that common "clicking" sound when they go bad like when you have a dead battery. When you get a near dead battery that clicking sound is the solenoid trying to pop out and engage the flywheel, but it does not have the power. They usually don't cost much. Try going to www. Rockauto. Com and you will not believe the prices you can get on name brand parts. They are a close out retailer and their stock changes fast.I got a $150.00 wiper motor for $40.00. I have seen even cheaper deals but with manufacturers I was not familiar with.

Is there a security light on or flashing when you try to start it?

These guides will help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Please run down these guides and report back.

The system is not recognizing your key. The most common cause is the sensor in the ignition switch or the wires leading up to it. You could test the wiring and replace the ignition switch which would require reprogramming of the BCM or you could just bypass the sensor.

That sensor can be bypassed. You would need a digital ohmmeter to measure the resistance of the pellet in the key. Now go to Radio Shack and buy a resister of the exact same value as the key pellet. Go to the base of the steering column and locate the two thin white wires that go up to the sensor. Cut the two wires and solder the resister between the two ends coming from the harness. This will permanently bypass the sensor but not the rest of the system.

The picture is all the possible resister values that you could have.

The to white wires brake @ the ignition switch. A new key will not help. If this is the case then wrench is corect. Buy pass the switch or replace the switch assy.

The key was never your problem as I indicated earlier. Possibly the sensor that reads the key but the key is nothing but a resister.