Hi guys. Excuse me for butting in but I might have a few ideas. Did you try Cadieman's starting fluid test? If so, what were the results? This does sound like a fuel-related problem. One thing to look at is the fresh air tube between the air filter and the throttle body. There can't be any leaks in it. If there is, air will sneak in that isn't measured so it won't be included in the fuel metering calculations.
Many auto parts stores rent or borrow tools. Borrow a fuel pressure gauge to see exactly how much pressure you have. If it's near 0 psi, cycle the ignition switch a couple of times. Leave it on for a few seconds, then off for a few seconds. If the pressure increases a little each time you turn the ignition switch on, and it doesn't drop down right away in between, the pump might be struggling to run and it can't build pressure up fast enough. If cycling the ignition switch a few times gets the pressure up, the engine should run smoothly for a few seconds until the pressure drops back down. As I recall, around 50 pounds is normal.
You should read and record any diagnostic fault codes too. You'll need a code reader or scanner for that. When you have an engine-related problem, please list which engine you have.
If you have a coil pack, check if there's spark from one of each of the three pairs of spark plug wires. Intermittent spark from any one of the coils lends suspicion to a failing crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. Intermittent signals from one of them can cause the Engine Computer to not turn the fuel pump on steady and / or not fire the ignition coils steady. Sometimes those problems won't set a fault code unless they have failed while the stalling engine is coasting to a stop. That's where you again need a scanner to view live data to see if the computer is seeing those signals.
Cadieman will likely have some more thoughts once you have the starting fluid results.
Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 6:22 PM
