The connector I'm referring to is the one you had to disconnect when you replaced the pump. If you need me to, I'll dig up a wiring diagram to tell you which wire to test. The thing is there will not be 12 volts there with just the ignition switch turned on. That would create a fire hazard if a fuel line got ruptured in a crash. You need to check for that 12 volts while the engine is being cranked. You need to check for spark too when you have a crank but no-start condition. Too many people get hung up on the first thing they find missing. By far the most common cause of a no-start is a sensor failure that results in no fuel AND no spark. That can be misleading too because on most vehicles with that problem, the fuel pump still will run for one second after turning on the ignition switch. That can leave residual pressure in the line which makes people think they have fuel pressure. The injectors won't fire either so that fuel pressure won't be bleeding down and you won't smell fuel at the tail pipe.
If you DO have spark, that rules out the sensors and ignition system, and in that case you're right that the fuel pump is the best suspect. What we need to do first though is measure that supply voltage before going through all the work of replacing the pump.
Tuesday, March 31st, 2015 AT 8:33 PM
