Car has no go - low engine power output?

Have the throttle position sensor looked at, it may be no good, if your not getting any codes, and the transmission is not throwing codes, it almost sounds like the vehicle isnt going into closed loop, which indicates bad o2 sensor(s) or engine coolant temp sensor This guide can help us find the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down this guide and report back.

Yes that it would do it.

First, is your "Check Engine" light illuminated? If so, then that is the first thing you need to check. You can take your vehicle to AutoZone, or any other major parts store and ask them to hook your computer to their scanner. It's free. Once you get the trouble codes, ask them for the definitions. That will point you in the right direction.

From the symptoms you describe, it sounds as if you have an exhaust restriction. Probably the catalytic converter.

To be sure, I'd need to know exactly what your "Bad odor" is. If it smells like a rotten egg, or dead rat, then your catalytic converter has gotten clogged up.

But replacing it won't solve your problem. You need to find out why you converter got clogged up and fix it, or your new one will get clogged up as well.

Most of the time, your engine is misfiring and dumping raw fuel into the exhaust. This melts down the inside of your converter and clogs it up. You need to find out why your engine is misfiring.

Too much fuel is entering the combustion chambers and not being burned efficiently. The raw fuel is getting into the converter and damaging it.

DON'T PUT THIS OFF!

You may need a converter if it is too late and whatever the source of the problem is.

The OEM converter warranties are 8years/80,000 miles through the dealer.

Disconnect belt and start car if no squeal it may be an alternator bearing or idler bearing causing it. If squeal is still present then have engine checked. May be a dry seal or something similar.

Have you checked fuel pressure? 52-61 psi

Yes think P0420 would show but CAT is it with that much heat backed up to EGR to melt. Maybe partial blockage and enough function left to keep O2 from setting.

Did you use a factory converter or an after market unit? Was it changed because of a past code?

If the converter was changed out for damage it is possible that some of it could have already broken off and is plugging the exhaust father downstream. You can do a back pressure test using a low pressure gauge in the O2 sensor port, ideally you want to see under 2-3 psi for a good exhaust. Or if you are not in a town you could remove the upstream O2 and see if the bog lessens or goes away.
A sort of quick test would be to hold a piece of paper or your hand over the exhaust and have someone start the car after it was cold. Have them step hard on the throttle and see if the exhaust increases to match the engine. Just be careful as it will get hot fast.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

This can be a couple different things. For example, a weak fuel pump, a plugged catalytic converter, and many other things.

If the check engine light stays on when the engine is running, I suggest having the computer scanned for diagnostic trouble codes. Here is a quick video that shows how it is done:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

I realize most people don't own a scanner, but most times a parts store will check it for free. If the light is on all the time, have that done and let me know the codes which are found. If you find a P0420 as one of the diagnostic trouble codes, then my next suggest becomes very relevant.

Next, and after reading your post, my first suspect is a partially plugged catalytic converter. Take a look through this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

Here is a link that shows how to test a converter:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Try these things first. If you find the converter is bad, here are the directions for replacement. The attached pictures correlate with these directions.

CATALYTIC CONVERTER REPLACEMENT
Removal Procedure
The three way catalytic converter is serviced by replacing the entire assembly. Always replace the gasket at the front flange when servicing the three way catalytic converter. Never reinstall the original gasket.

1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
2. Disconnect the heated oxygen sensor electrical connector.
3. Remove the exhaust manifold pipe stud nuts.

4. Remove the catalytic converter bolts.
5. Remove the three way catalytic converter.

6. Remove the heated oxygen sensor. Refer to Heated Oxygen Sensor (H02S) Replacement (H02SI) or Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Replacement (H02S2) in Computers and Controls.

Installation Procedure

1. Install the heated oxygen sensor. Refer to Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO25) Replacement (H02S1) or Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Replacement (H02S2) in Computers and Controls.

2. Install a new exhaust manifold pipe gasket.

Notice: Refer to Catalytic Converter Movement Notice in Service Precautions.

3. Install and support the three way catalytic converter.
4. Install the catalytic converter bolts.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

5. Install the exhaust manifold pipe stud nuts.
- Tighten the exhaust manifold pipe stud nuts to 32 Nm (24 ft. lbs.).
- Tighten the catalytic converter bolts to 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.).

6. Connect the heated oxygen sensor electrical connector.
7. Inspect for leaks and underbody contact.
8. Lower the vehicle.

_______________________________________

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe