Radiator Cooling Fan fuse location

Working with Ground, Position 30 & 86 both carry a voltage between 11.75 (key on) and 13.50 (engine on) Other two terminals show no response either way. Likewise position 3 & 2 on the smaller relay for the A/C Clutch have the same volts each (key on) and engine on respectively.

The relays are not being energized due to command from the PCM is missing.

Can you ground terminal 1 or 85 with a test light with relays plugged in and ignition switch turned on. If the fans comes on, you have a problem with the PCM.

I'll have to get a new test light for that test. I blew mine up last year working on a headlamp for another car. I'll get back to you when I've done as you've requested.

I will be away for a day or 2 so my next reply could be delayed.

No problem, I gotta go to SEARS a few towns away to get the test light.

I did as you asked, and the light came on, and so did the fans.

However there was one thing to note, I had an SES light on, which in my car isn't normally a cause for alarm but I had the opportunity to go to Autozone just to see what they said, and they had 1 code: PO117. Unfortunately when I replaced what I thought was the offending part with a pointy engine coolant sensor (pic1) from a cylinder one (pic2), I get no signal to my dash board coolant gauge. I wonder if I need to replace a different sensor, and if so where is it? The gray cylinder one I replaced (erroneously I believe now) was located by the Y-pipe, under a wire harness, below the air cleaner, stuck into an aluminum heat pipe.

Was this done prior the problem?

ECT are sensitive and the correct part should be replaced. Substitutions do not work.

There are 2 sensors, the ECT sensor and ECT sending unit.
Sensor is for the PCM to monitor the engine temperature whereas the sending unit is for the tempature gauge.

What you have replaced should be the sender which is for the temperature gauge.

The one producing the code is item 14 in diagram, should be the one you described. Check the unit wire harness for proper connections.

The ECT is part of the cooling fan system component and if there are any fault with it, the fans might not come on.

After the water pump had the impeller crack and it took me 3 days to get the new one installed, I hadn't driven it around until that day, so no the problem with the sensor wasn't noticed until after I was checking to see if the new water pump actually worked. The rub was, the SES light came on, and yet my gauge on the car's dash seemed to be fine. So It looks like I need to switch back the old part in, and put the other thing into another spot. (((I don't have the 3.4L SHO, I have the 3.0L DOHC)))

The component locations are similar.

Alright we'll crack it open. Thankfully I haven't driven it today.

It's located under number 8. Down under the air intake manifold, and just below the PCV elbow.

Hope that solves the problem.

It did. Thanks ever so much. I still think the ECT Sensor might be a little lazy, it gets only so high, unless it goes up to super red as it did when the water pump failed. But it was the Sender Unit that was defective, not sending a signal to the PCM to turn on the fans. Since the ECT is only $10 worth replacing to see.

The A/C still doesn't work, just won't come on at all. It has the proper pressure, and if I ground terminal 1 the AC Clutch spins, but still don't get cool air into the cabin. There's no squeal or anything from the Compressor, but as well if I put it on AC or Max AC, the fans don't come on doing so. But at least the fans do spin now when I am sitting at a stop light on a hot day. Hopefully this keeps up.

Have the A/C freon checked. Let me know the static pressure.

They had it at 20 psi I guess for a static pressure. As it turned out I had good vacuum, and no leaks, apparently the R-134 leaks out over 12 years through the hoses, as even with a UV test he couldn't find anything leaking from anywhere, and since I only had 4 oz in the system, they charged it up with 2lbs and now it works, just as it once did. I suffered for 2 years for nothing. Even the fans come on now, when you hit the AC button.

So then the last thing that occurs, before I move on to other cars. I cannot for the life of me figure out. No codes appear for this one, but whenever I go up hill, or turn the AC on, the car has a engine stumble, it'll idle at 1250RPM and rumble a bit, and then drop to 1000RPM, and recover every 2-3 secs while sitting at a stop light. If I turn off the A/C it doesn't do it as much, but it's still somewhat present. This has been going on for many years, and I've been at a loss to figure it out. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, screen, had the tank cleaned out, and replaced the canister and purge valve on the pack that's under the trunk. The plugs are platinum, the wires are good, and it drives down the highway fine, just likes to rumble at stop lights and lacks power up hill.

(I double-down my donation, did you get that?)

Thank you for the donation.

For pre-year 2k models, sometimes misfiring codes are not detected and from symptom descripption, there is a possibility the spark plugs needs attention. It could be the wires are loose or has bad conductivity due to rust formation at the sockets, etc. Misfiring or hesitation under load are mostly due to sparks ignition faults.

Since you do not have any trouble codes, a scan tool to monitor the sparkings might show something.

I did have a funny problem, that were the wires long ago. Whenever I stopped at a toll booth, the car would run rough, and then die as soon as I hit the gas. I'd have to restart in order to go. I replaced every gasket, vacuum tube, hose, clamp, you name it, even did the plugs, coil pack, everything. But it turned out the wires had gone. Oooh that really sucked not having done that, but doing the Coil pack instead.

I've wondered if I've got a lazy Crankshaft position sensor. My dad's car has a similar issue, though his car won't start good, and takes maybe 12-15 tries to get going, and then it runs like crap. Going to take that back to the tranny place on Monday to have a look. I'm think his problem is similar to mine, but a good wire set every 5 years is probably worth the investment.

What would a scan tool for sparkings look like?

Scan tools comes in various grades. A simple one would be just a code reader. Average ones would come with simple functions for testing components. A high end scan tool would come with PCM, immobilizer resettings and many other features that allows you to monitor and/or test the various components that is PCM or BCM controlled. You can read the datastream of the various sensors etc.

Is there any brands/models to choose from. Or at least the word to look up on Google shopper to get what I need?