Radiator Cooling Fan fuse location

Hello, the cooling fan fuse is Fuse # 9, 40 A, battery junction box, underhood. Here is a guide to help you check for power and the fuse location below with the cooling fan wiring diagrams to help you see how the system works. There are control relays that should be checked if the fuse is okay

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.

You're welcome. Hope it is an easy fix otherwise you would need to test the fans and controls etc which can be rather time consuming.

Do the fans run when A/C is turned on?

Item # 24 is the low speed whereas # 32 is the high speed fan relay. I have the schematics here for you. Go through get an understanding of the system. Note where the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor is as we might need to do some test there.

Get a test light or DVOM and we can get cracking to diagnose the problem.

Since both fans are not working, lets do a simple test first.

Start engine and turn A/c on. Give both fans housing some light knocking with a mallet or anything that can produce some slight vibrations. Note if any fan comes on. If they don't, continue with next step.

You would need to test the fan motors first. Fan motors do not fail simultaneously but there is a possibility one failed and was not noted until the next one failed.

Unplug the wire connector and apply battery voltage to the Red/Orange terminal of the fan motor and ground the other terminal. If fan works, they are good. Alternatively you can test the resistance of the two terminals with an ohmmeter. No continuity indicates a failed motor.

Stop engine. Unplug the wire connector of either one cooling fan and test for battery voltage at the Red/Orange wire with engine running and A/C turned on.

If you have battery voltage, use a jumper wire to ground the Black wire and see if the other fan works.

I upgraded this question, because I have the exact same problem on my car. I lost AC last year, and this week had to replace the water pump, after I noticed that the fans aren't turning on at all when you put on the AC and it eventually led to a broken water pump impeller. My car is a 1998 Mercury Sable LS DOHC. I tested the plug going to one of the fans, and with the AC on, I couldn't get any voltage or amperage to the fan itself. I believe both fans work, though they are a pain to even attempt removal, let alone test.

What is the relays for this car, as lat's car has a different box diagram than mine. Oh and the radio loses sound when I put it in reverse. That might also be an issue.

1998 has a different fuse box design and the schematics are slightly different as well.

Radio losing its sound could be due to a bad ground circuit somewhere and it most probably should be around the radio.

Thanks for being online today, thought I'd have to wait til tomorrow to find out which relay to test. On that note, how do I test relays for cars. Last time I did it, I blew one up, and had to replace it anyhow. The fuses are good, I should probably test the fans themselves, but since they're not getting power, I'm assuming 1 or both relays is shot.
Would there be anything else to test if the relays are good?

I added an image to clarify the 2 relays.

Actually I was about to log off for the day.

If you refer to the wiring diagram, yyou would notice that the relays are labelled 30, 85, 86 and 87 for the terminals.

You relay is labelled differently and has 5 terminals. The center row is actually terminal # 30 (single pin) while the other 2 pins are terminal # 87. One of your relay has the wordings 2, 4, 3, 5.

@ and 4 are the coil circuit whereby if battery voltage is applied to one and and the other is grounded, the relay would click.

One simple way is to sway the relay with another that fits, eg the headlight relays. You can use the headlight to test the realy too. Just remove the headlight relay and plug the fan relay in and turn on the headlights. If the headlight fails to work, then you would know the relay is bad.

I did the simple way, and both of those worked. I swapped the relay for the fuel pump and I still had fuel pressure, and checked just in case, and pulling it caused the car to stall.

Likewise I swapped the relay for the starter relay and pulling that wouldn't start the car, but both relays allowed the car to start, so that relay is good.

Now what should I do?

Sorry I made an error with the relay teminals. Terminals 1 and 2 are the coil whereas 4 is the power supply and 5 and 3 are the output.

Unplug the relay and check terminals 3, 4 and 5 of fuse block for battery voltage. Depending on which relay, low or high speed fan, there must be one terminal that is hot at all times. If terminal 4 has battery voltage, use a fused wire to connect it with either terminal 3 or 5 and see if fan comes on.

If I'm doing this correctly, according the the numbers on the relay itself, corresponding to the holes on the fuse block, starting with the red wire plugging in from position 3.
3 to 5 gives me 12 volts.
3 to 1 gives me 12 volts.
3 to 2 yields 0.25volts.

There is no metal prongs in position 4 on the smaller relay for the center #4 position.
If I'm not connected to position 3 (the farthest lead not in line with 3 prongs, I yield no voltage for say 2-1 or 5-2 or 5-1.

Likewise on the fatter Relay, holding on position 30, I get 12 volts on position 86 & 87, 0.5 volts on position 85, and center 87A is unused. No voltages present if one lead is not on position 30.

So I checked with the fuseable link, and was enable to engage the AC clutch first with the car off, with a junction between 3 and 5 of the single separate leads. But, if you don't put the small AC relay back in place it blows the fuse while your testing the big relay. So, once I put that back in, and engaged 30 & 87 I was able to get both fans to spin at a normal speed. Any other position yielded no results on both circuits.

Actually when you are testing for battery voltage, you probe the terminal that you wish to test and ground the other probe to a ground.

I would like you to perform the above test again to confirm the main power supply from the fuse as the wiring schematic seems to be rather confusing. Mark the 2 wires, one for each relay. Repeat testing with other terminals with ignition switch turned on. This is for getting the power source of the relay coil.

Just want to make sure which is which.

The test indicates the fan motors and wiring circuit are good and now we would have to test the relay coil, to see if it is power supply that is missing or you have a fault with the grounding circuit for energising the relay. These are controlled by the PCM so hopefully that is not the cause.