2000 Hyundai Accent unsuccessfully for two years to get this little car running

Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 HYUNDAI ACCENT
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 75,000 MILES
Unsolved Mystery, 2000 Hyundai Accent, 1.5 SOHC front wheel drive. I have been trying, unsuccessfully for two years to get this little car running, and with the price of gasoline now it would be a great blessing to me, being on Social Security. In the beginning the car started to lose power and it steadily got worse over a period of two weeks until it totally failed, at this point my brother gave me the car. When I first began troubleshooting it, the only thing I could find was no spark at any cylinder. I replaced the computer with no change in the problem, then someone on this forum said, "it must be the Crank Position Sensor" so I changed that with absolutely no change in the problem. I wrote back in, my results, and it was suggested that maybe the O-Ring from the old CKP sensor was still on the block creating a spacing problem but that is not it because I have the old CKP sensor right here on my desk, with it's O-Ring intact. I don't remember who gave me the specs on the voltage going into the coil but I do know it was correct. There is obviously no voltage coming out of the coils and that is why I was pondering both coils going out at once, someone said that was very unlikely. They did say that maybe the Crank Position Sensor may not be getting grounded to the computer or ECU. How can I determine this? Can I find out where on the ECU it does ground then check continuity from that pin to the CKP sensor? This is really bugging me, I know this is a good little car that has only highway miles that my brother commuted 100 miles round trip every day for work. It would certainly be a great Blessing to get this Hyundai on the road.
Thursday, October 14th, 2010 AT 11:05 PM

1 Reply

Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
Try this for the CPS With the key on and the sensor unplugged, check the voltage between the pink and black wires in the harness end of the connector. You should have battery voltage. If not, you'll need to check the power (pink) and ground (black) circuits. If that's okay, reconnect the sensor and check the yellow wire for signal while cranking. If you have a scope, this should be a 12V square wave. If not, check with an AC voltmeter. The voltage reading should be about 8.5V. Also check for frequency. You should get one when cranking the engine. Also, the following are problems that can occur with this repair: 1. Plate between crankshaft sprockets is damaged or installed backward. 2. Crankshaft sensor is installed backward. (The plate should run between the two halves of the crank sensor). 3. Sensor wiring is not routed exactly as originally and is grounding on the engine or has rubbed through. 4. Camshaft timing not proper.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, October 14th, 2010 AT 11:10 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links