Engine has a lose of power?

Tiny
GLOVE4195
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 TOYOTA CELICA
Engine light flashing when I press down on gas pedal it has no power? New plugs, coils and wires
Tuesday, February 15th, 2011 AT 4:50 PM

16 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
It sounds like the catalytic converter is clogged but to be sure lets run down this guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Monday, March 14th, 2011 AT 4:04 AM
Tiny
SPARKY1690
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 TOYOTA CELICA
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 99,000 MILES
Car starts sometimes it will idle rough with no throttle response, other times revs no problem. Really running out of ideas and it's not showing any fault codes. Have looked online seems to be a common problem with this car model, but never seem to find a fix. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

The first thing that comes to mind is the cat converter being clogged and not allowing the engine to breathe. There could be a piece broken inside that is moving around and at times clogging the outlet to the exhaust.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

You need to have a back pressure test done or you can disconnect the exhaust at the exhaust manifold and take the car for a ride and see if it is any better.

The other possibility is fuel pressure. If you pressure is low, it will run rough and peak out as you have. The system needs to be checked.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

Roy
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PETERPAP
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 TOYOTA CELICA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 120,000 MILES
I have recently had a problem with a loss of power. I washed the engine bay and did not cover any of the electrical components. When attempting to start the vehicle it would crank over but not start. I figured out the distributor got wet, pulled it apart & dried it out, this solved the problem.
However I now have a problem that whenever I drive the car and change gears the engine looses power at the lower revs, as soon as the revs go up the power increases and the engine runs well, until I have to change gear. This happens through all gear changes.
Any suggestions / comments are welcomed.

Regards
Peter
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there,

Check the fault codes first, just to make sure there is nothing logged, This could be a sticky air flow meter, (common problem)also water can leak into the electronics of the meter, they have a rather poor seal, also there are easily damaged if the car backfires, best option is to try a known good air flow meter first.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TERESA B
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1990 TOYOTA CELICA
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
Getting stuck in traffic is when I develop this problem. After sitting at idle for a minute or two when you go to accelerate the car will just surge you can just barely give it gas to start moving but if you try and give it to much it will just bog down after it cools all the way down it will be fine then. The car had been in a flood was thinking it might have something to do with the fuel tank that has been the only thing I have not changed yet.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Hi,

It could be the fuel system but let's clarify what all you have changed so that we don't recommend anything that you have done already.

Also, here is a guide that talks about the common causes of surging:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-surges

Lastly, I need to know the details about the flood. Was it over the hood or did it only effect certain parts of the vehicle? Thanks
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TERESA B
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
The water got about halfway up the door. All the fluids was changed and new plugs and wires was installed.I did not do this personally this was all done before I purchased the car. I know all the insides was took out and replaced. I was told everything important was changed out. The car ran great for at least three months of driving everyday. Then during the hotter months this year I started having this problem when I would get stuck in traffic and would sit at idle for two or three minutes and start to accelerate it would not go. You could just ease on the gas pedal a little bit and let it gain speed on its own if you gave it to much gas it will just bog down and sometimes cut off. I have tried letting it set for a few minutes with the engine off to see if that would help but it did not. The only way it clears up is to let it cool completely off and then it is good to go. It don’t run hot or any thing like that just will not accelerate when it sets at idle for a few minutes. Other than that it is a great car.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
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Okay. I suspect you have a sensor issue because if it were fuel related then more than likely letting it cool down would not matter as much.

Let's check and see if there are any codes in the computer and we can go from there. Normally a bogging down like this is an air flow sensor issue or possibly throttle position sensor. Hopefully we have a code and we can go from there. Thanks
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TERESA B
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
The check engine light works, but is not on when the car is running checked and no codes stored.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. Then lets start testing things and see what we have. Let's start with fuel pressure while this is happening. Then we can move on.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEMOY28
  • MEMBER
  • 28 POSTS
  • 1987 TOYOTA CELICA
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 2,000,000 MILES
3SFE engine in my car, It will start and throttle perfectly, somehow the the muffler starts giving a subaruish sound when I take it for a spin and starts to accelerate the RPM works normal, but the car hesitates with the pedal to the floor and it goes no where. I get a good amount of smoke from the tail pipe (white sometime and blue another). I have no vacuum leaks, where do I start?
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Pressure check the coolant system for a head gasket leak, then check vacuum at intake if 15' or below suspect a clogged exhaust.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEMOY28
  • MEMBER
  • 28 POSTS
Turned out that my number 4 cylinder wasn't firing. Got it fixed. The number 3 cylinder injector wire was plugged off
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MAX HENDRIKSE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • TOYOTA CELICA
1995 Toyota Curren (Celica) 170,000km manual with 2L 3sfe

I have noticed lately a lack of power that comes and goes at no particular engine speed or temperature. This problem never comes and goes during a trip, it is either there or it isn't and has been getting worse. When taking off or changing gear the engine will bunny hop slightly like it is trying to stall. It also makes quite a bit of noise when engine braking. I have replaced the spark plugs and put through a bottle of injector cleaner and this hasn't helped. I noticed the points on the distributor cap were quite dirty and worn. I cleaned them up but they are still a bit worn. Could this be the problem? I have been told the MAF sensor could be causing this.
The engine light is not on. What do you think could be causing this?
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
I noticed the points on the distributor cap were quite dirty and worn. You must be talking about the ignition rotor. Get it replaced and the cap this 2 are brothers. One goes the other follows-just like the lifters and camshaft.

Try checking for backpressure in the exhaust anything over 2 lbs is considered clogged-Cat

Could be the MAF and TPS doing it-investigate pull a CSI on it.
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Wednesday, December 30th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)

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