1999 Plymouth Breeze My 99 Plymouth wont start?

Why did you need to have the codes read? The parts you listed will cause different symptoms and are in different systems, so I can't determine what the symptom is. "Won't start" covers a number of different symptoms. Is the starter cranking the engine? If it is, have you checked for spark? If you have spark, have you checked for fuel pressure?

That sheds a new light on the story. A simple trick to finding a short is to replace the blown fuse with a pair of spade terminals, then use small jumper wires to connect them to a 12 volt light bulb. A brake light bulb works well. When the circuit is live and the short is present, the bulb will be full brightness and hot so be sure it's not laying on the carpet or against a plastic door panel. Now you can unplug electrical connectors and move things around to see what makes the short go away. When it does, the bulb will get dim or go out.

There's an additional clinker in this circuit. The automatic shutdown relay turns on for one second after turning on the ignition switch, which obviously isn't enough time to troubleshoot anything. It turns on again whenever there's engine rotation, meaning cranking or running, and again, it's not practical to run the starter as long as it takes to diagnose the problem. The light bulb will still limit current to a safe level, but to energize the circuit for testing, the easiest is to remove the ASD relay and install a jumper wire, then you can troubleshoot the circuit without even turning on the ignition switch. Depending on which style of relay you have, jump terminals 30 and 87 together or the two with arrows in my sad drawing below.

The ASD relay feeds the ignition coil, injectors, alternator field, fuel pump or pump relay, and the oxygen sensor heaters. The most common cause of blown fuses is a wiring harness to the oxygen sensors fell down onto hot exhaust parts, melted, and the heater wire is grounded.

That's a lot of stuff to replace for no reason, and it will have introduced a bunch of new variables, but we'll worry about those later. The next thing I need to know is if there's 12 volts going to the coil pack and injectors. You can back-probe the connector of any injector, the coil pack, or either smaller terminal on the back of the alternator. The 12 volt feed wire is dark green / orange. A test light works best for this test but you can use a digital voltmeter too. Some of them take a while to respond and you can miss the initial voltage pulse.

You should see 12 volts for just one second after turning on the ignition switch. That tells you the ASD relay and circuit are okay and the Engine Computer has control of it. That voltage must come back during engine rotation, (cranking or running). The computer turns the ASD relay back on when it sees the pulses from the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor. If that doesn't happen, the first suspect is the cam sensor. There likely was a diagnostic fault code stored in the old Engine Computer but that valuable information is lost now. You can check those codes but very often codes for those sensors won't set from simply cranking the engine. Typically the computer needs to see the loss of signal for a couple of seconds while the engine is coasting to a stall. If there are no fault codes, you'll need a scanner to view live data. It will list the two sensors with a "present" or "no" during cranking.

The relay is turning on when? Just for that first one second or during cranking? If it's turning on during cranking, the crank sensor is working and there's no need to test anything.

The battery temperature sensor is actually the intake air temperature sensor. That goes back to the older cars. The air temperature sensor was inside the Engine Computer which sat right next to the battery. Intake air went through the computer, so they put the sensor there. Failure is extremely rare because there's just one component in it. Most codes are set due to bad electrical connections or when a sensor is used in the fresh air tube, it is unplugged while the ignition switch is on.

Erase that code, then see if it sets again.