1998 Saturn SC1 retrieving codes

Does your scan tool power up off the connector?Or are there batteries in the scan tool. You could have a blown fuse that powers the connector that's the most common reason for that.As far as the no start could be a bad battery loose dirty connection or bad starter. Do you have a multi meter to do some testing?

it does have batteries. i can check the fuse. should be under the hood. i no the battery drains after a week of sitting but was starting. i have just put in 2 starters in 2 97 sl2 cars. it might be low enough that i wont start it. after it cools it will start up again real easy. really thinking i have both issues there but probably will try different battery but wanted to check scan first.last time i asked you about this car was checking evap code n u said check under intake manifold. was just now getting time to do it. didnt want to unhook battery yet. and i do have a ohm meter. thanks

Yeah I remember you I have answered several of your questions. If memory serves correctly its the lighter fuse inside the car.Remove the battery from the scan tool and see if the tool powers up off the connector.Sounds like you have excessive drain on the battery causing it to dye over time when it doesn't run for a few days.I would have the alternator and battery tested.A bad diode in the alternator can cause that kind of draw.As far as checking under the intake manifold I think I told you to make sure the vacuum both vacuum lines were plugged. Into the canister purge solenoid and the solenoid was plugged in.

yep u answer most of mine and thanks for that. checked some fuses outside marked pcm. nothing bad there. i can check alternator to. want to try different battery before pulling the starter. wanted to finally check the hoses vac. hoses under the manifold. thought if starter was bad i would be under there anyway. will try to check fuse inside. thanks

Yeah I am the Saturn expert on here so I try to answer as many Saturn questions as I can.Before you changethe starter let me know so we can make sure its a bad starter.

put in different batteries for scanner. it has to have them to work. didnt help. cant find a blown fuse but for some reason my power door locks dont work. thought i just changed a relay not long ago. wanted to try other battery before doing a starter. it charges about 14 volts

See if your body or locks fuse is blown?

finally remembered if the body fuse blows the locks dont work. then checked and got codes to. so will have to remember that fuse. i asked before about misfires n u told me which plugs and wires to use. had changed the plugs but not wires and i see i still get a few on 1,2,and 3. im sure i will get wires soon. i tried starting a few times after i got the codes and it was starting good but i still need to check battery and starter. i have an old load tester for battery.

so is the canister purge solenoid right above the starter? do u have anything that u can send that shows it. i see 1 plastic line and a line that comes from the fuel filter line that go right above the starter. thanks

It the only solenoid that is right about the starter with two lines going to it with connector going to it.Can't miss it.Also what kind of spark plugs did you out in the engine?

so i might take out the starter n have it tested and i will look at brushes and lube then i can see the lines better for the solenoid. i took out platnum and put in copper. think u said ngk but they didnt have them. would have to check what i used a/c delco or bosch.

The Bosch super work well in those cars.There is no need to remove the starter to check the hoses.Also if you test the starter when its working it will test good.The brushes don't fail in those starters the solenoids do.When it won't start see if you have battery voltage to the little purple wire at the starter with the key in the start position?

solenoid is all hooked up. pulled starter to check. is there a test for it. going check the starter to see what condition its in.

How I test them is when there inop see if I have battery voltage to the purple wire at the starter with the key in the start position? If so bad starter that's how I have been doing it for many many years.

it allways sounds like the solenoid is kicking in, it just sounds like the starter wont turn over. like low battery. which it still might be. it was dirty in the end so i cleaned it out and put a little lube on it. brushes did look good. is there a test for the purge solenoid or something while i have the starter out. made sure the rubber fitting for plastic line was good. thanks

You can unplug the canister connector and measure the ohms across the two terminals on it?But unless its failing all the time it won't ohm out bad.A lot of the time when they reach a certain temp from the engine heating it up they fail.

well the code for the evap is allways there. the light is always on and if i delete it, it only takes up to 20 miles to put it back on. i will check it before i put starter back in. i did put another load test on battery n this time it went down to weak. still seemed to be charged. will try different battery from my 97. thanks

Also what is the exact code numbers you have?

it is a po442. had to look on scanner. thought last time when i asked about it, it was a p0440 and thats when u said to check under the manifold. would have to go back to check that. maybe this is something different?

checked original message and it was a p0440

Alright with that code you most likely have a leak in the evap system.Remove your has cap see if the seal is cracking?

yep it is cracked.i changed the cap not long ago because the little plastic stip to hold it to the car was broke and i had one still hanging on a rear quarter. so i changed it. before i had the 440 code and i changed the pcv and it went out been later came back. i had changed the hose to but not a preformed hose so i did think it was bending right and the pcv was sealing. and at about that time i changed the cap but had cleared the codes. didnt realize i had the other code. so i will deal with the gas cap n see if that works. thanks

Get a stant gas cap reset the code and see if it comes back.

i had the gas cap with the little strap broke so i took that seal. started and stopped it and let it run for awhile and nothing yet. it started pretty good every time but still want to try other battery. didnt have any misfires during that time. cleaned the throttle plate. was pretty bad to. runs and idles good. running 14-7 ratio when warm. i will see once i get it out and drive it. probably tomarrow. thanks

Your welcome keep me posted.

didnt have the light come on today but that body fuse was blown when i got ready to leave for work. i will have to look in the book to see what all that controls. i know if the inside lock switch is bad they will blow. those wear out and get lose from flipping them back and forth and will blow it. didnt thnk these were bad, but will do some checking.

That body fuse powers a lot try to pay attention to when the fuse blows.Like did I just use my mirrors door locks etc?

drove it yesterday n parked it. locked it with the remote. unlocked it with the remote this morning and noticed no dome light. so tried inside door locks. then i knew had blown again be cause they didnt work. it just started this when i asked about not getting the codes

Sounds like it has something to do with the door locks from what you have said.After using the keyless entry sounds like that's when the fuse blows.

unhooked drivers side lock switch and door shut in case of jamb switch, went to put in fuse and popped right away. dead short or grounding out. never had a problem with jamb switch before. not sure if they just pop out so i can check wires and switch. chime works some when driver door is open. have to wiggle switch for that but also run dome light. hate the wiring diagram i have for being able to see what all is on that fuse. show older cars in bigger diagram and this one is broke down so much its hard to find everything

unhooked both door lock switches and both door jamb switches and it popped as soon as it hit. im guessing it has something with chime module also

today going to work the service engine light came back on. till i find why im blowing the body fuse i dont suppose there is a way to check the codes

so does the fuse blow only when the power door locks operate?With a blown fuse you can't read codes

it blows as soon as soon as i try to put it in. i uhooked the switches and the door jamb switches and it still blew right away. unhooked chime and it blew. i will have to try to find diagram for the plug for the scanner n see where that wire goes yet. thanks

would u like me to start another question to pay more money? this has been getting longer than i thought it would or if u dont want to answer more on this let me know. wasnt sure if u wetre getting all messages or not. let me know. thanks

Sometimes we get hickups on here where I don't get all my email alerts that someone has posted a reply to a question I am answering. If it were my car I would use my power probe circuit traced to find the short.

didnt really understand what you mean power probe ciciut

I am not allowed to posted links on here search eBay and amazon for ect 2000.Its a short find that traces the short down with a transmitter and a receiver.

i looked at them. does brand or anything make a difference. going to look for a few more things then might have to order one. hope they aren't to hard to figure out. never used one before.looks like about 100 to 120 bucks. thanks for letting me no. wasnt sure if u was talking about a test light or something else. i will let you no.

That's the one I have and it works great so that's why I told you about it.Its pretty easy to use just read the instructions and i think it might come with a DVD showing it operate.