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1998 Saturn SC1 retrieving codes

Tiny
LALFAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 SATURN SC1
  • 139,000 MILES
I hooked up my auto x-ray 6000 to get the codes from the 98 saturn and it says car is not responding. Didnt have this issue before. Did have the code for the evap system which I wanted to work on. But also been having problems with it starting after it gets warm. It clicks and tries to turn over but you have to hit the switch a few times then it will finally turn over and start. This is after it gets warm. Think im getting a weak battery also but was starting before. But I cant pull any codes. Any ideas. Thanks
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Saturday, August 3rd, 2013 AT 9:41 AM

93 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Does your scan tool power up off the connector?Or are there batteries in the scan tool. You could have a blown fuse that powers the connector that's the most common reason for that. As far as the no start could be a bad battery loose dirty connection or bad starter. Do you have a multi meter to do some testing?
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Saturday, August 3rd, 2013 AT 11:02 AM
Tiny
LALFAN
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It does have batteries. I can check the fuse. Should be under the hood. I no the battery drains after a week of sitting but was starting. I have just put in 2 starters in 2 97 sl2 cars. It might be low enough that I wont start it. After it cools it will start up again real easy. Really thinking I have both issues there but probably will try different battery but wanted to check scan first. Last time I asked you about this car was checking evap code n u said check under intake manifold. Was just now getting time to do it. Didnt want to unhook battery yet. And I do have a ohm meter. Thanks
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Saturday, August 3rd, 2013 AT 11:23 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Yeah I remember you I have answered several of your questions. If memory serves correctly its the lighter fuse inside the car. Remove the battery from the scan tool and see if the tool powers up off the connector. Sounds like you have excessive drain on the battery causing it to dye over time when it doesn't run for a few days.I would have the alternator and battery tested.A bad diode in the alternator can cause that kind of draw. As far as checking under the intake manifold I think I told you to make sure the vacuum both vacuum lines were plugged. Into the canister purge solenoid and the solenoid was plugged in.
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Saturday, August 3rd, 2013 AT 11:53 AM
Tiny
LALFAN
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Yep u answer most of mine and thanks for that. Checked some fuses outside marked pcm. Nothing bad there. I can check alternator to. Want to try different battery before pulling the starter. Wanted to finally check the hoses vac. Hoses under the manifold. Thought if starter was bad I would be under there anyway. Will try to check fuse inside. Thanks
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Saturday, August 3rd, 2013 AT 12:17 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Yeah I am the Saturn expert on here so I try to answer as many Saturn questions as I can. Before you changethe starter let me know so we can make sure its a bad starter.
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Saturday, August 3rd, 2013 AT 12:23 PM
Tiny
LALFAN
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Put in different batteries for scanner. It has to have them to work. Didnt help. Cant find a blown fuse but for some reason my power door locks dont work. Thought I just changed a relay not long ago. Wanted to try other battery before doing a starter. It charges about 14 volts
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Saturday, August 3rd, 2013 AT 12:51 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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See if your body or locks fuse is blown?
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Saturday, August 3rd, 2013 AT 1:42 PM
Tiny
LALFAN
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Finally remembered if the body fuse blows the locks dont work. Then checked and got codes to. So will have to remember that fuse. I asked before about misfires n u told me which plugs and wires to use. Had changed the plugs but not wires and I see I still get a few on 1, 2, and 3. Im sure I will get wires soon. I tried starting a few times after I got the codes and it was starting good but I still need to check battery and starter. I have an old load tester for battery.
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Saturday, August 3rd, 2013 AT 2:20 PM
Tiny
LALFAN
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So is the canister purge solenoid right above the starter? Do u have anything that u can send that shows it. I see 1 plastic line and a line that comes from the fuel filter line that go right above the starter. Thanks
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Saturday, August 3rd, 2013 AT 2:49 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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It the only solenoid that is right about the starter with two lines going to it with connector going to it. Can't miss it. Also what kind of spark plugs did you out in the engine?
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Saturday, August 3rd, 2013 AT 4:08 PM
Tiny
LALFAN
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So I might take out the starter n have it tested and I will look at brushes and lube then I can see the lines better for the solenoid. I took out platnum and put in copper. Think u said ngk but they didnt have them. Would have to check what I used a/c delco or bosch.
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Saturday, August 3rd, 2013 AT 5:33 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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The Bosch super work well in those cars. There is no need to remove the starter to check the hoses. Also if you test the starter when its working it will test good. The brushes don't fail in those starters the solenoids do. When it won't start see if you have battery voltage to the little purple wire at the starter with the key in the start position?
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Saturday, August 3rd, 2013 AT 6:13 PM
Tiny
LALFAN
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Solenoid is all hooked up. Pulled starter to check. Is there a test for it. Going check the starter to see what condition its in.
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Sunday, August 4th, 2013 AT 12:20 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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How I test them is when there inop see if I have battery voltage to the purple wire at the starter with the key in the start position? If so bad starter that's how I have been doing it for many many years.
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Sunday, August 4th, 2013 AT 1:22 PM
Tiny
LALFAN
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It allways sounds like the solenoid is kicking in, it just sounds like the starter wont turn over. Like low battery. Which it still might be. It was dirty in the end so I cleaned it out and put a little lube on it. Brushes did look good. Is there a test for the purge solenoid or something while I have the starter out. Made sure the rubber fitting for plastic line was good. Thanks
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Sunday, August 4th, 2013 AT 2:31 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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You can unplug the canister connector and measure the ohms across the two terminals on it?But unless its failing all the time it won't ohm out bad.A lot of the time when they reach a certain temp from the engine heating it up they fail.
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Sunday, August 4th, 2013 AT 2:43 PM
Tiny
LALFAN
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Well the code for the evap is allways there. The light is always on and if I delete it, it only takes up to 20 miles to put it back on. I will check it before I put starter back in. I did put another load test on battery n this time it went down to weak. Still seemed to be charged. Will try different battery from my 97. Thanks
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Sunday, August 4th, 2013 AT 3:29 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Also what is the exact code numbers you have?
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Sunday, August 4th, 2013 AT 3:42 PM
Tiny
LALFAN
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It is a po442. Had to look on scanner. Thought last time when I asked about it, it was a p0440 and thats when u said to check under the manifold. Would have to go back to check that. Maybe this is something different?
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Sunday, August 4th, 2013 AT 6:24 PM
Tiny
LALFAN
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Checked original message and it was a p0440
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Sunday, August 4th, 2013 AT 6:29 PM

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