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Will not start, no power to starter relay

Tiny
AJ DESHNER
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 DODGE DURANGO
  • 5.2L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
Hello, I have the vehicle listed above that wont start. There is no power to the starter relay socket I tested 30 and 87. 87 is the switch and 30 is the power side I get a light on my tester when I go to start it but the constant has no power to engage the switch. That being said I have no blower fan and no windows either. Now here's a kicker if I turn the ignition to on and then jump to switch from battery it will start. If I put the relay fuse in the socket and give power to the 30 prong I get windows and fan. Please help!
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Monday, June 29th, 2020 AT 12:19 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good afternoon,

30 is battery power from a 40 amp fuse in the PDM. Verify that fuse is good.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

87 goes directly to the starter solenoid.

86 comes directly from the ignition switch and 85 is the ground for the control through the neutral safety switch.

Can you verify if you jump 30 and 87 the truck cranks?

Roy
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Monday, June 29th, 2020 AT 1:09 PM
Tiny
AJ DESHNER
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I have checked all the fuses and they are good relays are all good too. So when I go to start it you can here the relay click which means the switch is working but the power side which is constant hot has no power the terminal. Is there a fusible link between the relay terminal and ignition switch?
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Monday, June 29th, 2020 AT 8:30 PM
Tiny
AJ DESHNER
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
The relay terminal is dead on it should have power and it doesn't.
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Monday, June 29th, 2020 AT 8:32 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
If the relay energizes, the ignition switch is good. That is what sends power to the control side.

If you look at the diagram, the 40 amp fuse is what controls power to the load side. If you have no power at pin 30, then either the fuse is no good or has no power, or the wiring between the fuse block and the relay is damaged.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

You must have power to pin 30 for the starter to work.

Roy
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2020 AT 3:54 AM
Tiny
AJ DESHNER
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I'll check it again Roy. Does the security system cut power to the 30 pin?If perhaps it needed a chipped key?
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2020 AT 3:29 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
No, it does not. The ECM controls the ground for the control side and verifies security before grounding.

Roy
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2020 AT 3:32 PM
Tiny
AJ DESHNER
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
All those fuses are good. Is there another 40 amp I'm missing?
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Wednesday, July 1st, 2020 AT 10:03 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Did you check for power at fuse number 9 as in the diagram?

If you have power, then there is a wiring issue between the fuse block and the relay.

Roy
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Wednesday, July 1st, 2020 AT 10:16 AM
Tiny
KOOTENAYJOE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Did you figure out the problem? I just had the identical issue. No power to pin 30 of the starter relay. But power at the 40 amp starter fuse. Somehow a break inside the fuse box between these connections.
I fixed it by adding a jumper from both sides of the 40 amp starter fuse to pin 30 of the starter relay. Not sure why it only work if I use both sides of the 40 amp fuse? But blower fan and crank works again. That was a real head scratcher.
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Wednesday, October 21st, 2020 AT 11:17 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
The fuse block itself was the issue.

The fuse feeds more than just the pin 30 of the relay. That is why your other functions returned when you did the jumpers.

User note: He has a bad fuse. One side of the fuse block is a constant 12 Volt. Now he's operating his circuits unprotected with no fuse

Roy
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 3:57 AM

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