Will not start possible drain battery

The battery is more than likely having a major drop in voltage under load. Even with the jump box it is so much that it will not start your truck. If you have a multi-meter, test voltage while starting car and see if it drops. Or you can take battery to Auto Zone or Advance Auto and they will test it for free.

Other than what was already suggested things you have looked at once, maybe dig a little deeper.

Sometimes it is just a matter of getting in there, and giving it some "tough love".

This is sort of generic.

You could have other problems.

Insure your battery is good and once you get it running, your alternator is charging (can be checked for free at most auto parts stores).

Usually it is something easy to do if you do it right.

You could have faulty relays or fuses save the complicated stuff for last! (If any)

Check your fuses! Your owners manual may show you locations that you knew nothing about.

Remove and replace "suspect" fuses several times--this may scrape off corrosion and give them better contact!

This will work for you, provided that your battery is good or you can be jumped off even if you have to borrow your neighbor "Fred's" good battery out of his truck, for a trial run

Remember "new stuff" can be bad too.

Your starter may be bad.

Your solenoid may be bad.

Battery could be bad.

Most of the time, what you read below is usually the problem, you can find it or pay someone the big bucks to find it.

People get lazy they do not actually do this stuff. Just a quick gander from afar and no hands on.

Fisconnect the battery to do the following:

clean "scooch" the connectors around tighten the nuts or bolts well, wire brush, knife blade, whatever it takes to clean a connection. Do not just pass off any big cable connection as, "it looks good" I mean man handle every connection everywhere.

Pay special attention to the battery posts, clamps, cable connections to the clamp (i am talking about the old style "squeezer" ones that hold the clamp to the actual cable).

If you have side post terminals remove the bolt that screws into the battery from the side terminal (it will pop out of the rubber) turn the rubber inside out scrub the flat connector with a wire brush or scrape it with a knife until it is clean same for its mating surface on the battery.

Many times there is not much slack in the cable no whining. You have to get it clean, especially if you can see "green stuff" caked on them.

Yeah, it is not easy to get in there, but look at what you will go through if you do not.

You have to check it all/any connection positive or negative that a big cable bolts to get your hands dirty.

If a cable goes to a box it goes on through it. Clean connections coming and going to where ever they go.

Eventually you will reach the starter connection (positive) and the engine/body (negative).

As you progress, try to crank him up you may find exactly which connection was the problem.

I have seen this same catastrophe, many many times (i saw it not too long ago), as I was about to "car dolly" a friend's truck in, then I did the checks, it was the side posts on the battery connections) and it was so simple to fix. Sad thing, when I got there, nothing had been done except an attempted jump start. I was going to have to pull him forty miles, he wasted three hours of my time. Lazy, lazy, lazy.

You could be running before your "Calvary" arrives.

Return with good news.

Or your findings and we will continue.

The medic

Some more stuff I added to make this post more informative. As I "link" a good many people to read it.

The medic

Take a hold to the battery clamps with your hands and fingers.

If you can twist them either way while forcibly trying they need to be opened up and tapped further down on the posts, then re-tightened.

If the clamp is squeezed together an touching (will not tighten any more bottomed out) replace it with a clamp that will not bottom out (has a gap at the jaw after it is tight).

It is too loose if you can move it bare handed.

The medic

With this going on, I just got notified of your response a second time!

Glad you got it fixed. Was any of my information any help?

I just remembered I went back to your original post with an answer.

The Medic

"TRT30" is the newest best-us working code I have used recently!

The Medic

You might search for newer codes, sign in join "Speed Perks". I have found that if you use a, for instance, $40.00 off promo code, and drop your item from $100.00 down to $60.00. You can also go to the Speed Perks block and drop in any "perks" you may have acquired. Such as a $20.00 off on a "so much" purchase and a $5.00 perk. These too can be used along with the code to make your purchase even cheaper!

I just did that with a battery purchase.

At this present date, TRT41 and TRT30 save a lot, couple that with Speed Perks, and your wallet will remain heavy.

Look for new great codes, always do "dry runs" to see if they are valid, before you submit your order.

The Medic

Can we try to turn the engine over by hand? The engine could be locked up that is why the cables smoke. Use a large breaker bar on the front of the engine.