Engine Stalls?

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,871 POSTS
Don't jump the gun until you're sure the alternator is the problem.

As for going to a heavy duty unit, you won't gain anything. The smallest unit you're going to find will still deliver well over 70 amps. A totally dead battery will only draw around 20 amps for a minute or two when it first starts to recharge. It only takes little more than that to maintain three fully charged batteries and run the rest of the electronics on the truck. The reason for the much higher capacity of your alternator is to prevent a drop in voltage when it is momentarily stressed to provide for power windows, power seats, wipers, radio, head lights, and heater fan on high all at the same time. A drop in system voltage can cause the many computer modules on the truck to become confused and do strange things. It is very unlikely you will ever need more current than the alternator can deliver.

Going to a larger alternator will only provide a larger maximum capacity. It will not charge batteries any faster or deliver more current then the truck demands. One potential unintended consequence has to do with the wire between the alternator's output terminal and the battery. In the late '70s - early '80s, for example, Chrysler products came with one of three different size alternators depending on the accessories on the car. A fuse link wire was part of the wire between the battery and alternator output terminal. All of the alternators mounted and plugged in the same so sometimes people installed one with the larger capacity. That would not cause a problem in itself, but if someone performed a ful-field load test to determine its maximum output, more current might be drawn through the fuse link than it could handle. To complete the modification properly, it was necessary to use a larger diameter wire with its larger fuse link.

If you haven't had a problem with the trailer attached before, there is no reason to need a higher capacity alternator now. It won't last any longer or run the electronics any better unless the trailer causes the current one to be near its maximum output all the time.

As for the Engine Computer, he has no idea what the charging sytem is doing or how much current it's delivering. The voltage regulator inside the alternator watches system voltage. An increase in current demand lowers sytem voltage. That tells the regulator to run the alternator harder to increase current flow. That results in voltage going back up.

Here's another way to visualize what you can't see. Think of a municipal water tower. As long as it's full, a pressure gauge at ground level says "100 psi". When a little water, (current) is drawn off, the water level, and its pressure, (voltage) goes down. The water pump has no idea what the water level is in the tank, but it sees the drop in pressure so it delivers more water volume to build the pressure back up. There is a limit to how much water can be drawn at any given time based on the number of homes connected to the system, so all that's needed is a pump that's big enough to meet the demand if every home turned the toilet, sink, shower, and garden hose on at the same time. Installing a pump with a higher capacity would fill the tank faster, ... If the pipe diameter was also increased.

Hope that all made sense. Electrical was the hardest subject I taught because it can't be seen, touched, or manipulated. I had real good results by comparing anything electrical to water flow in a pipe or river.

Caradiodoc
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HUNTER4255
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thanks, with the help. I am a HVAC Service Tech, so I do the same with my customers, most customers can not understand the technical but using different ways to explain the seq. Of events, helps.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2 LINSEY
  • MECHANIC
  • 287 POSTS
Thank you for using 2CarPros. Com. We appreciate your donation and look forward to helping you in the future.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RAMIREZ
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1996 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 149,873 MILES
My truck feels like its going to turn off when its runnig when I give it some gas it sounds worse what could the problem be.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
First I want you to do the simple things that usually should fix the problem.

First change the fuel filter and air filter and throttle body.

After those are cleaned replace the plugs and wires.

Also is there a check engine light.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RAMIREZ
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
[quote="Ramirez"]Other Category problem
1996 Chevy Silverado V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 149873 miles

I already did all those things about two months ago. I think it might be the fuel pump.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
Also be sure to check and clean the EGR valve and check for vaccum leaks, to check for vaccum leaks fire up the truck and spray carb cleaner on all hoses around the gasket of the intake manifold, egr valve, if idle changes you have found a leak.
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+1
Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAYGS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
Engine Mechanical problem
1996 Chevy Silverado V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic unknow miles

the pump is working but can not get fuel to the butterfly. Could it be the fuel perssere reg? Also have fuel to inj. Can spray start fuild an will start but wont stay running.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
You need to confrim the fuel pressure if its within specification by using a fuel pressure tester.

The fuel pressure specification should be 60-66psi
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SMILEYMILLER1
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1996 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 174,000 MILES
I have a 96 chevy silverado with a 5.7 vortec engine. Runs decent at idle and low speeds, but as I apply more gas it acts like its choking out and looses hourse power on hills at any speed. Could this be the throtle position sensor? Ive recently changed the upstream o2 sensors and plugs and distributor cap.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge 60-66 psi. Auto parts rent it.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SMILEYMILLER1
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Yeah, shortly after posting the question, I read the article on back firing and it made a lot of sence. Thanks for the fuel psi range. :)
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
One other thing on these if the fp is ok then check rotor in dist it should not move or if it does very little the dist gear wears out and you'll need another distributor.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROY ALLEN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 240,000 MILES
After I drive for a while it just dies and I have to let it sit for a while until it will start again.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Hi Roy,

Does it run fine then just cut off with no warning? Any check engine light on? If so, can you pull the codes?

Here is a guide that will help with the general principals of what we need to start eliminating.

If you have a fuel pressure gauge, let's hook that up and then tape it to the windshield so you can monitor rail pressure the next time this happens. If fuel pressure remains constant when it cuts off then we can eliminate a lot of items, such as fuel pump, regulator, or the most unlikely of all, injectors.

If it just cuts off then we need to look at the crank sensor as being the most likely cause. However, if the fuel pressure drops and it stalls out then we are loosing fuel pressure somewhere.

Let me know and we can go from there. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AUTOETRONICS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 112,000 MILES
I gotta 95' Chevy C3500HD Dually and right now the temp on the guage is between 1/2 and 3/4's and it bounces between that. Once I slap on my 10,000lbs trailer it runs the same until I stop, then it runs alittle above the 3/4 mark. Any suggestions? The engine is a 7.4L 454, auto tranny with cooler ad an engine cooler.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BUDDYCRAIGG
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,262 POSTS
First I would verify that it's running hot with an independent thermometer.

Next, make sure there isn't any debris in the fins of the AC condenser, oil cooler, tranny cooler, and radiator.

If you have a fan clutch instead of an electric fan, make sure the clutch has more resistance the hotter the engine is.

What about replacing the thermostat?

And while you're doing that, get that nasty dexcool antifreeze out of there, and flush the radiator and put in some good old fashioned green stuff.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 12:37 PM (Merged)

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