No spark at plugs?

The Rotor turns & the Ignition Module I took it in and had it tested & it is good. The Cap, Rotor, plugs & plug wires are all new.

Electrical problem
1985 Chevy Blazer 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 100K? Miles

85 Blazer, had low oil pressure and oil leaks. Pulled engine and replaced pump, brngs, gaskets and distributor (rebuilt NAPA brand). After replacing the engine we have no spark. We tested the ign module and pulse coil both are good, all wires are good.
I can't find a test to do on the ign coil or a wiring schematic. Any help and suggestions would be great!
Thanks

Do you have 12V to the ignition coil? If not then check for 12V to the ignition module (white or red wire). If you have 12V then you need to test the primary and secondary on the coil. The primary windings should have low resistance (less than 2 ohms) and the secondary should have high resistance (10,000 ohms +/- 2,000 ohms). Anything else and it should be replaced. You can hook a spark plug up straight to the coil and depending on if you have a crank sensor or not the plug should fire when you make contact with the body or when the engine rotates. Make sure the cap and rotor are replaced on the distributor. Finally if all else fails check the stator inside the distributor or the hall effect sensor on the crankshaft for proper operation.

Joe,

I will replace the coil and see if that will work. I will let you know Friday. Thanks for your help.

I have a 1984 s10 blazer V6 4x4 starts intermittently. Sometimes will start and run fine, others (sometimes weeks in between) nothing. Getting fuel to cylinders. Getting 12v to the module on the side of the engine and out of that (plug wire to distributor has spark) but no spark to plugs. Also a couple other notes.. The oil gauge is going crazy bouncing up and down rapidly with the key in the "on" position and also the choke light is now on. Any and all help is appreciated.

How would I go about testing that? Take the cap off and use a circuit Light? Can do. I'll check it tonight.

Ok. Pulled the cap off the distributor, and the rotor ( think). Unplugged ECM and checked it out. Looks kinda beat up has white sticky Lithium on the bottom. But plugged in the Positive lead to the ECM (where I had 12 V) and tested the terminals on the other side of the ECM and I had a dimly lit test light. So I don't think its letting a full 12 v pass through it.

Ok. You lost me on that one..I put a new ignition coil on it and I thought it would solve the problem about 2 months ago. But it is both sending and receiving power.