Engine Idle Problems

Tiny
JENNYROSE21
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 NISSAN TRUCK
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 236,000 MILES
Runs great except when coming to a complete stop with clutch depressed. Engine stalls and needs restarting when in low idle. Someone mentioned O2 sensor. Someone mentioned Mass Airflow Sensor. Someone mentioned Idle adjustment. Which one could it likely be? The vehicle does wobble a little at high speed which I assumed it might be just alignment issues but the friend who mentioned O2 sensor said it is a side effect. It does seem to miss a little if you really pay attention to its idle, but nothing really noticeable. If it is the O2 sensor can I do this repair myself? Where is it located on the vehicles exhaust system? BTW: No dash lights indicating check engine are on.
Sunday, November 14th, 2010 AT 7:46 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Clean and test the IACV-AAC, EGR valve,clean MAF sensor and test the TPS sensor- Here is a guide to help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-idle-speed-control-motor-iac

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Sunday, November 14th, 2010 AT 7:50 PM
Tiny
PETELG18
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1995 NISSAN TRUCK
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 65,000 MILES
My D2 pickup has an idling problem. At times it will run smooth. It usually idles around 1100 rpm's. And at times the idle will fluctuate up and down. An example is: You can top at a light and it will idle at 1100 rpm's (what I call normal) and then come to the next light and it will surge up and down and idle rough. Usually I can brake with my left foot and give a little gas with my right foot and keep it running. Then it will correct itself for a while then act up eventually. Any ideas would greatly be appreciated. Pete
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 2:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
Erratic idle speed is usually caused by a vacuum leak, but typically doesn't run okay at times. Unstable readings from temperature sensors can cause that too. The sensors themselves cause very little trouble because there's just one component inside them. The readings bounce around more often due to corroded terminals in the connectors, or other wiring problems.

With intermittent problems like this, the best place to start is by connecting a scanner so you can view live data and see what the Engine Computer is responding to. For example, when the engine is still cold, you know the coolant temperature sensor had better be reading the same as the intake air temperature sensor. Also, you can watch what the computer is requesting for idle speed. If you see it request a lower speed when actual speed goes up, the computer is trying to lower it, but without success. That would point to a vacuum leak. If you see the request is for an increase in idle speed, when the actual speed does go up, look at the sensor readings to see which one seems to not correlate with the actual conditions. For example, if it's fifty degrees, the engine is warmed up, and suddenly the coolant temperature sensor reports minus 20 degrees, that is an acceptable value to the computer, so it won't set a diagnostic fault code, but it is an incorrect reading for the current conditions. That would tell you to look at the coolant temperature sensor circuit.

Also read and record any diagnostic fault codes. Fault codes typically do not set just from a sensor reading being off a little. There has to be something to force the reading to go all the way to an extreme to trigger a fault code. Be aware too that only those codes related to things that could adversely affect emissions turn on the Check Engine light. There are fault codes that don't turn the Check Engine light on, but they can be just as useful in diagnosing this type of problem.
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Thursday, April 4th, 2019 AT 2:10 PM (Merged)

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