1994 Dodge Dakota - no dome light, no radio, etc.

Tiny
COMERITE
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 166,700 MILES
This is for a 1994 Dodge Dakota 2WD, Auto, 6 cyl. W/ A/C

I recently got the truck. No dome light, no radio, no light under hood. Also, heater/A/C blower fan does not work. (Not sure if the blower is related to the other) Checked all the fuses indicated by the owner's manual and all related fuses in cab were good.

I checked the bulb in the dome light and it was burned out. I replaced it and no light.

Did some looking online and found that there was a 5 AMP fuse in the power dist box behind the battery that covered at least the dome light and underhood light. It was bad. I replaced it and both the dome light and underhood light came on for a FEW SECONDS (2 or 3?) And went back out so I assume there is a short somewhere.

I purchased a Haynes manual and the fuse locations and descriptions do not match my truck and what they present as a "typical" schematic does not match either.

The Haynes manual I have is for Dodge Dakota pickups, 1987 thru 1996. 2WD and 4WD

Bottomline, I would like a wiring schematic and/or accurate description of all the accessories on that 5 AMP fuse.

Also, what is the best approach to track down the offending circuit?

Thanks
Tuesday, November 30th, 2010 AT 11:36 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
Replace the blowing fuse with a pair of wires hooked to a brake light bulb. The bulb will just be full brightness when the short is present and it will go dim when you move or unplug something that removes the short. I'll search for the right service manual so we can figure out what else is on those circuits.

Caradiodoc
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Tuesday, November 30th, 2010 AT 11:42 PM
Tiny
COMERITE
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thanks, Since I am not sure about everything ON the circuit, let alone where in the circuit the peripherals are I was figuring I would just have to start running wires. Ugh. Will the brake light bulb burning like that when there is a short melt any wires somewhere?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 1st, 2010 AT 12:09 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
Nope. That's the purpose of the bulb. It will limit current to about one amp, exactly the same as the bulbs in the back of the truck. Plus, it gives you the visual indication of when the short is in the circuit.

Caradiodoc
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 1st, 2010 AT 3:27 AM
Tiny
COMERITE
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Does the fact that the dome light was burned out give any hint as to the location of the short? I know some about electricity, but not sure about this circuit. Might take me a day or so to get what I need and give it a go since I do not have a garage to work in.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 1st, 2010 AT 1:50 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
Nope. A burned out bulb is an open circuit where no current flows. You're looking for a short circuit where too much current flows.

Caradiodoc
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 1st, 2010 AT 4:36 PM
Tiny
COMERITE
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Yeah, I got that. Was just wondering if the short might have caused the bulb to burn out. I went to AZ today and got a socket with wires and tailight bulb to try that approach. Not sure if I will get to that tomorrow or not.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, December 2nd, 2010 AT 12:48 AM
Tiny
COMERITE
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Went and got a tailight socket from AZ and gave it a try. Test light seems to work ok, but still have not found the culprit. Without a good schematic (like I said the Haynes versions is no good), it is hard to say if it is before something or after something.

I totally disconnected the underhood light and light went out. Jumpered across the connector and came back on so "beyond" there. I removed the domelight altogether and the test light was still bright so "before" there.

Seems to be a pinkish and yellow wire running the circuit so far. I see it going through a large connector under the driver's side dash compartment, but cannot get apart to see if the short is beyond there -- inside the engine compartment or inside that cab.

I saw a blue triangle looking thing in the side of the connector that I figured is some kind of lock for the connector. When I tried to remove it, the two smaller lower legs came out, but broke off the top part. Can you tell me how to get that connector apart?

Thanks
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Saturday, December 4th, 2010 AT 7:27 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
I only have a '93 manual but I think it's the same. That 5 amp fuse would be F2. It feeds the interior lights, under-hood lamp, radio memory, glove box light, courtesy lamps in the doors, if you have them, and power mirrors, if you have them. If you see your test light is bright, indicating the short is present, open and close the driver's door a few times. If the light flickers or goes out, pull back the rubber tube between the door hinges and look for broken, frayed, or touching wires.

After the fuse, that is a pink 20 gauge wire for that circuit.

I'm looking for the connector you're referring to.

Caradiodoc
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, December 4th, 2010 AT 7:52 PM
Tiny
BODEZAFA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I had the same problem. Mine was a fuse under the hood called Ignition off draw.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, March 15th, 2014 AT 4:09 PM
Tiny
COBURNCLIFF
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Was this ever resolved? I'm having the same problem and tried using the schematic from Haynes and found it to be useless. Just bought the truck to replace a 2006 Grand Caravan that was taken out by a hit and run tree. Thanks.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Sunday, November 27th, 2016 AT 10:28 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links