Firebird wont idle well, or dies like the fuel is being cut off.

Tiny
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Okay Ive read where a full sweep of the gauge at start up means its working. Just started it this morning while it was cool. Temp showed around 80-100, It ran great at 4000rpm except for a few rpm dips every 4-5 seconds. As soon as I let off the gas, It was all over, didn't even want to start. Well back to checking fuel pressure and injectors, lol
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Monday, August 1st, 2011 AT 12:20 PM
Tiny
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You have a coolant temp sensor that can effect your fan. If the ac is on, the fan will run. If the coolant temp sensor is left unplugged, the fan will run constantly.

You also have a temp sending unit, separate from the other sensor, controls the gage. My info says the sending unit is located at left cylinder head, below valve cover.
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Monday, August 1st, 2011 AT 3:00 PM
Tiny
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Okay thanks. Still haven't found a fuel pressure tester, or tore apart the top to check the injectors, but today I re-did the bypass datalink test. The radiator fan came on automatically, and stayed on the whole time. The error codes were 12 three time, then 15 three times, and just kept repeating the same thing. Where can I find out what each code means, and what does 15 mean? Thanks
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Thursday, August 4th, 2011 AT 8:19 PM
Tiny
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The code 15 is coolant temp sensor voltage, too high. I thought 2carpros had a link for obd1 codes, didn't see it?

If you type gm obd1 codes in your search box, should give you all the info you need.

I can give you more info on the code if needed, from our database.
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Thursday, August 4th, 2011 AT 8:48 PM
Tiny
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Well alright, unhooked negative battery cable overnight, error 15 went away. I went and rented a fuel pressure tester, hooked it up without turning a key, showed around 10. Then sprayed plenty of starting fluid into the intake to keep it running for a while. When I started it, the pressure gauge went straight to zero! Lol but the car was running great off the starter fluid, no missing out or fluttering. The gauge would sometimes go back to 10, but then straight back to zero. I hear it should be around 45. Even though sometimes I can hear the fuel pump prime, is this my problem? If so, can the whole fuel pump be replaced from a hole in the top of the trunk. Im in a dirt gravel driveway. Ive heard about how hard it is to go from underneath. Not an option for me sadly. Thanks again! Cant really afford to have it towed and pay a repair service.
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Friday, August 5th, 2011 AT 5:07 PM
Tiny
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Oh yea the pressure bleeder hose didn't even bleed a drop of gas, lol
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Friday, August 5th, 2011 AT 5:14 PM
Tiny
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Yeah, you can erase codes, that way. If there is a problem on that system, the code will just come back. Maybe it was an old code?

If there is an excess panel in the trunk, you can get at the pump, that way. If I have to lay on the ground or whatever, I use a big piece of cardboard or an old throw rug. There are safety issues with raising and supporting, working under, a vehicle. Safety is your responsibility.
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Friday, August 5th, 2011 AT 5:50 PM
Tiny
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I checked the datalink again after starting the car with starter fluid and pressure reading zero, the code did not show up again. I read where one guy said he couldnt pull the pump out of the top after cutting a hole above the tank, he said it was connected at the bottom of the tank to the fuel line, or something like that, Ive been told thats bullcrap. Do you think my fuel pump is the problem, not the coolant sensor, if so, thats my next project.
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Friday, August 5th, 2011 AT 6:26 PM
Tiny
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Also I was told to watch out for spewing gas when I screwed the pressure valve on the schrader unit, there was absolutely nothing putting it on or taking it off. Not even a pressure sound. If the pumps my problem, I'll get on it and get out of your hair for a while. Thanks Bud!
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Friday, August 5th, 2011 AT 6:44 PM
Tiny
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If you have good voltage and ground at the connector for fuel pump motor and no pump action, I suspect the pump. I've seen pumps that would run but not make much if any pressure.

There is a fuel pump test connector, under the hood, firewall, usually battery side of engine. Red wire electrical connector, nothing plugged into it. If you use a jumper wire from battery + to connector, the pump should run, don't have to use the key. Probably should use an inline fuse with the jumper, just in case. I didn't think about that earlier. You still have to check voltage and ground at the rear.

I haven't heard of GM fuel pumps being attached at the bottom, somehow. I have heard of that on other makes, can't remember which make? I think it was a ford?
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Friday, August 5th, 2011 AT 6:56 PM
Tiny
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I will try that, I was just out there messing with it, changed the fuel pump fuse, "even though the other one looked fine" I hear the pump at every key turn, but it doesn't last very long. The fuel pressure starts at 1, then builds up 1-2 pounds with every key turn to power. I do this till it maxes out at 15, won't go any higher, then the car starts beautifully every time but the pressure starts to immediately drop down to zero, then sputters and dies. Going crazy here! Haha checked the datalink again afterwards, still only 12. Maybe I need to find a pressure hose diagram, I don't know, Ill try the jumper, 2 wires or one, negative or positive?
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Friday, August 5th, 2011 AT 7:51 PM
Tiny
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Tried it with a fuse in the line, now pump doesn't work at all, hope I didn't short out the fuel pump relay. Dis-connecting the negetive cable again all night. As soon as pump comes on again, Im going to start to change it. Thanks for the help!
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Friday, August 5th, 2011 AT 11:36 PM
Tiny
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That's what the test connector is for, won't hurt anything. If your going to drop the tank, you will need to drain it.
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Saturday, August 6th, 2011 AT 2:39 PM
Tiny
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Sorry It's been a while, Ive checked around about 91 firebird 3.1 fuel pressure and some say there's that are fuel injected are around 10-15 psi, which is what I have. I have not removed the fuel tank yet, I have removed the Plenum (if that's the correct term) so I could get to my fuel Injectors. The ohms readings (if done properly lol) all on the passenger side are 12. The front 2 on the drivers side are 8-sometimes 7 on
one of them on a different setting on the meter that had a decimal point, the last one is 12. Are the 2- 8's my problem, are the failing or clogged, can I clean them cheaply myself without that $100 kit? And Ive heard about a tool that goes in between the plug and plug wire to check for a spark or power? Whats that tool called? I'm going to check on that some more. Hope your still interested, anything look awry or fixable here before I destroy the rear end or kill myself trying!Haha
signed
broke-non mechanic!
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Friday, September 2nd, 2011 AT 9:08 PM
Tiny
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Oh yea, I also found that gold metal flexible pipe that goes into the passenger side up front on the plenum completely clogged up. The base where it goes into the electrical boxes was fine. I cleaned the plenum hole out, don't have a clue what it does. More curios about the previous post. Just thought I'd add this info if it helps. Thanks!
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Friday, September 2nd, 2011 AT 9:14 PM
Tiny
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Sorry to keep forgetting things, but the fuel pump always primes, and fuel spews out of the schrader unit. Starts okay but still cuts off, but will run fine with gas being sprayed into the intake.
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Friday, September 2nd, 2011 AT 9:21 PM
Tiny
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That fuel pressure reading is not correct for MFI. It is correct for TBI. Those lower injector readings, don't sound right to me.
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Saturday, September 3rd, 2011 AT 2:18 PM
Tiny
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Okay, It's been a while because of my physical and financial condition mainly, but to anyone who reads my problems, I finally got the gas tank out, [91 firebird] and didn't have to undo the brake lines, just undo the screws holding the lines by the left tire. I replaced the whole sending unit, float and fuel pump. Had a bit of trouble hooking the hoses back up, new parts aren't perfect for old cars, but they were close enough. And after 1,000 cuss words, and getting it all back together, she started and purred like she's supposed to! No more dying after 5 seconds! But be prepared to replace the old sway bar links, and you may need a jack to get them in. But problem solved, I cleaned my spark plugs, and the next thing I knew my fuel pump went bad. Hope this helps any else going through this problem, and thank you 2 car pro's forever! I got my parts at rock bottom auto for great prices! Thanks Guys!
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Wednesday, April 18th, 2012 AT 12:07 AM
Tiny
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You do have to unhook the rear axle though, be carefull, Thanks!
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Wednesday, April 18th, 2012 AT 12:10 AM
Tiny
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Good job.
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Wednesday, April 18th, 2012 AT 2:37 AM

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